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  #16  
Old 04-15-2007, 08:09 PM
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Cool - I think I'm going to take it to a local auto parts store that has a machine shop.

Here are some pics of the mess...

One more question - I made small tear in the rubber boot on the tie rod end (or toe link as MB Doc refers to above) - I assume that this part should be replaced (see pic) -- are there any other suspension parts that I should consider replacing while I've got this entire assembly off?

Should the lower control arm bushing be replaced on principle?
Attached Thumbnails
Removing 124 rear hub assembly - MB Doc?-toe_link.jpg   Removing 124 rear hub assembly - MB Doc?-lca_bushing.jpg   Removing 124 rear hub assembly - MB Doc?-no_wheel_carrier.jpg   Removing 124 rear hub assembly - MB Doc?-hub_axle.jpg  
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  #17  
Old 04-16-2007, 09:10 AM
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You should replace that link...will require alignment!

That lower bushing/bearing should be replaced if it is too loose OR tight.
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  #18  
Old 04-16-2007, 10:12 AM
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How would one determine if the LCA bushing was too loose or too tight?

Thanks again MB Doc!
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  #19  
Old 09-01-2008, 01:23 AM
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jeepers creepers. too bad this thread is a year old. I am planning to pull the wheel carrier on my 95 e320 wagon. i need to replace the drivers side rear wheel bearing. but I'm just gonna take it to a shop to have them press out the old and in with a new. I may be coming back to this once my hands get dirty.

the general concept I have in mind is:
pull the wheel
remove the rotor
disconnect all links, arms, rods etc
undo nut in hub (what size? left hand thread?)
pull off carrier


that's the idea anyways.
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  #20  
Old 09-09-2008, 03:43 PM
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update.

I removed the various arms and then the wheel/bearing carrier. pretty straight forward actually. took the carrier to a shop and had the bearing replaced. I also found that the outer control arm bushing was shot and had a new one pressed in at the same time. I'd say this is the best way to change bearings. leave it to the pros with the presses.
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