How to replace/ get control arm bushings out?
 

OK, I have the control arms off. I have the bushing kits on hand. I am at a stop point for a few days so I thought I would "post before hammering".:behead: Is there a process I should be aware of to get the old control arm bushings out? (I am working on a w210 chassis e300D.)

I've never done them because I didn't want to buy a spring compressor and the special tool to get them out and press them in. You for sure aren't going to do it with a hammer. So either take it to a shop and have them do it, or buy the tool. Example at www.baumtools.com/pdf/Mercedes_undercar%20Tools.pdf

Steve

Thanks for the info, I will order the tool. That is what forums are for.

Here''s another thought. I have no idea whether this applies to a W210 control arm bushing. On the W123 models there is a specific orientation for the bushings. Years ago I did them on a '79 300CD. I have some one press the bushings in and out. When I went to the dealer for an alignment the tech pointed out my mistake.

Steve

On th W210, I have heard that it is cheaper to buy a new control arm (with bushings in already) rather than trying to push out and push in bushings. That assumes you pay labor. Might want to compare the prices.

Pweber, I'm in the process of doing mine as we speak. (Take a look at my other post today.) I have the special tool, which works well to remove the front bushing and looks like it will work to press in the new ones, but I'll guaran-goddam-tee you it will not work to get the rear bushings off. Neither will hammering. (I've tried with a 20-lb sledge.) To get the rear bushings out, you'll need to take the LCAs to a machine shop to press them out. You may want to do that, as you're halfway there (you have the LCAs off the car). The machine shop may also be able to press out the front bushing and press in both front and rear without the special tool. But if you want to use the special tool and not buy it, I'll rent you mine when I'm done, which should be tomorrow.

softconsult is right, the new bushings have a specified orientation--basically, the obvious marks go perpendicular to the plane of the LCA.

Paul

Paul, did you get the Baum bushing press tool?

Yes, I have the Baum tool.

I've decided to replace only the front bushings, not the rear. The front bushings are clearly shot, while the rear bushings look very good on inspection. As the front bushings appear to be 99% responsible for the problem, in my opinion it's not worth the time and cost to replace the rear. I could be wrong, but I'm willing to take the chance. I'll post later with the results.