Hello,

I would like to resolder my cruise control amp but I do not know how. I searched and found lots of websites telling you how to solder but none on how to resolder. So I have a few questions:

1. Do I need to apply more solder or do I just melt the existing solder on each joint and then let it cool?
2. If I need more solder, do I remove the old solder first?
2. Dave, I know you helped out a few guys by doing their amps for a small fee and I am wondering wether you still do that?

Thanks a lot, Andrei

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With Regards

nobody?

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With Regards

A,

'from what I've read ...you are only reheating the original solder so it will once
again make complete contact with both points.
Solder is brittle ...maybe the time element and flex "cracks" it?
You will hit the "Joint" with a HOT iron ONLY until the Original joint liquifies.

I imagine it will take some trial and error!

Yes, re-heat the original joints, add a touch of fresh solder if you think it will help, but not too much or you'll create a short. One expert I read in doing this uses a microscope to see the actual 'cracks'! I redid mine one year awhile back, and it worked great....for that one summer. Hasn't worked since, so I will go back in and re-do maybe this year just for the hell of it. I used one of those light/magnifying glass rigs, borrowed from the wife's jewellery shop and a fine point (I think 35W) iron, resin core solder only... and I was advised to avoid re-soldering the black IC modules in case the heat fries one, but this time I'll include them too. One thing is that it's hard to tell which joints you've done, so some get missed and some get done twice. Great 2 hour rainy day job though....and immensely satisfying when it actually works!

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1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus

Thanks a lot guys, exactly what I needed to know. This is why this board is great.

Thanks, Andrei

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With Regards

I hate to stir up controversy, but in my opinion the reason the original board failed is that Germany doesn't allow lead in the solder, and the original solder is doomed to fail from the beginning. I would (and have) use a solder wick, obtainable at Radio Shack, to remove all the original solder possible, and re-solder the joints using 60/40 solder. (the kind with that nasty lead in it, which keeps the joints from cracking.) An interesting point is that aircraft electronics are exempt from the rule about not using lead in solder. Another way to go would be to use silver solder, which doesn't fail either.

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Richard Wooldridge
'01 ML320
'82 300D 4.3L V6/T700R4 conversion
'82 380SL, '86 560SL engine/trans. installed
'79 450SL, digital servo update
'75 280C

No controversy here...but what is the composition of the original solder then? Tin and ???....

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1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus

Take it from someone who has been soldering for many mango seasons, remove the old solder with a wick or a solder sucker. Then apply flux and resolder the component.