One more thing.....Take the lid off of the module box - check the fuses in the base module (you never know)

The Electronic Accelerator (EA) module (N4/1) controls the cruise control, idle speed functions and electronic accelerator pedal to ensure smooth and consistent operation regardless of engine temperature and load. The module is located in the module box, F23 and is color coded "ORANGE". Checkout MENU#9.

Since your car is the same as mine, many of its modules are shown on my web pages.

The ETA (Electronic Throttle Actuator) is the 'thing' at the other end of the EA and LH module and it's is the 'fly-by-wire' device. It's the other end of your accelerator pedal. Check what happened to my ETA in MENU#24. The scenario described there is more typical of what happens.

Yours is atypical b/c of the dead EA module and not be able to run. You do need to get that fixed before seeing IF the ETA is even bad.

The EA, ETA and all other modules do not need to be "programmed for your car".

Larry Delor:

I have checked those before going to the dealer and the fuses were okay.

JimF:

When I opened the box the modules were all the same color, silver. Are they suppose to be different color?

Before I took the car in I read a code from the LED thingy and it blinked 6 times. Does that mean anything? I forgot to mention that before.

Thanks.

Check Jim's site for the code explanation(s). He has a lot of useful info there. The code you have is a base code of sorts....further interrogation is needed. Plans for a home made reader are here, and on Jim's site.


The modules have labels on them (see pic in prev. post). I think the connectors below are color coded (keyed too).

Sure do . . . . that's the (in)famous code 6. . . means "ISC faulty".

Please read MENU#24 . . . carefully and most of your questions will be answered there including "code 6" and others that I suspect you will find as you get the car running.

BTW if the EA is bad, remember to check "junk yards" for replacement parts. When my DI module (Menu#5) went bad, I got one for $225. . . . still working today.

You must have an 8 pin connector with a pushbutton and an LED, in addition to the 38 pin connector. A code 6 on the LED (the DM / diagnostic module) is telling you to check socket 7 on the 38 pin for more codes.

I was just thinking.....there are probably more codes than just the one. Might wanna check on that.

JimF,

I read the menu#24 thanks. I have one question which is do you remove the intake manifold (the chrome looking things that the ETA and MAF are in center of) or can you just remove the MAF and then the ETA? I am asking just in case the ETA is bad and needs to be replaced. Thanks.

I removed the MAF, then the 'connection hose', then by loosening the ETA bolts, removing the rubber vent hose (it will be like mush!), the throttle spring and a lot of manuvering, the ETA can be removed thru the intake manifold.

Use the sketch showing the exploded parts as a guide.

Okay,

I had the car towed back. I want to check the harness but where do I slice it open? Keep in mind that this harness is no more than 5 years old and may still be good.

Post#9 . . . my answer to 'wiring harness' . . .

Sorry I forgot to re-read the whole thread. The wiring harness is good. The wires inside are in perfect shape. The actuator however is not making any movements or noise when I turn the ignition to the on position. How do I know whether it is the actuator or the module? Is there any way for me to test them? Thank you.

OK... So you checked the wiring for the MAF - But...did you also check the wiring to the ETA? (the cable goes through the firewall, and connects on the right front corner of the Module box - there should be a bracket holding it in place.)

That IS part of the wiring harness . . . if the wires are good at the MAF, then the wires to the ETA connector are good!

Checking the wires at the MAF is one of the best places since it's EXTREMELY hot (the wire runs down along the inside of the intake and top of the head), so it's a "super-hot" place to check for wire quality.

Now the ETA itself plugs into the tie point and the only way to tell is to do the same thing that was done to check the wiring harness; make a small cut; open the sheath and check the wires.

However, if it's the original ETA, the WIRES ARE BAD. . . guaranteed.

However, that's still not the central problem; if the EA is bad . . .and it appears that it is, then got to get it replaced so he can run the car, bad ETA or not!

Jim,
I thought there was a separate cable for the ETA - If he's had the MAF replaced, the condition of the MAF wiring would be fine. I think that just to be on the safe side, he should open the ETA cable and make sure - it won't cost him any money, and he then knows for sure, instead of having that nagging doubt in the back of his mind.

He needs to open up the lid and get a part number off that module too, and start shopping/hunting for one - brand new is cost prohibitive, unless one has cash to burn.

(yes, I have one for sale, but mine's for an ASR equip'd car)



PS: geez, with all these abbreviations, I hope I am understanding and typing everything correctly. :o

PPS: I just re-read the posts and it appears that the MAF is most likely the same age as the rest of the car. But, that doesn't necessarily exclude the ETA from having bad wiring - since the MAF was most likely bought from a company that didn't build their products with defective wiring the way Benz did. (yeah...another jab at MB and their cruddy harnesses)