Idler amr kit - alignment
 

Hey guys,

When I replace the idler arm kit on my 1990 300E, do I need to have an alignment done?

Can't answer question about alignment, but can warn you that getting the large bolt back in through the new bushing is very difficult. Now maybe I missed something obvious. However, after easily getting old bolt and bushing out, I simply could not get the new bolt back in. There is interference. I finally put the bolt in upside down and drove it my indy, who got it in.

I suspect that replacing the bushing would not affect alignment.

Just my experience on '92 300E .

Steve

Indie replaced mine on my 93 300E a few months ago...no alignment needed.

The trick to getting the bolt out is to knock the top and bottom bushings up and out of the tube while the bolt is still in there [ with the nut off , of course].. This allow yo to angle the bolt in the tube now for removal...when r/r the new one you do the same with the top one and then squeeze the bottom in with channel locks..
No alignment changes , except if you had an alignment recently with a worn one..

i cut the head of the bolt off and it slipped down.. then put the bolt in upside down..

no alignment...

that said... when i invest nearly 600 dollars in to a nice set of michelins some months later, I got an alignment.

Note about putting the new bolt in upside down. When I did this a year or so ago and posted same on another forum, I was warned by two shop owners that the bolt must be put back in correctly.

On Arthur's tip, I had no problem removing the bushings and the bolt. However, on re-installation I tried every variation, including the one he mentioned. I simply couldn't get the bolt in.

Let us know how it goes.

Steve

I am going to be under the car this weekend, but I will double check.

Some board gurus and MB techs have heartedly endorsed the upside down bolt procedure.

No problem.
They think the nut loosens, the bolt will fall out .. There are hundreds of bolts on a car that have the nuts on top. If it is tightened to spec, it will be fine.....

idler arm kit
 

I pretty much did as Artur Dalton described - had no problems.

Did use a liitle liquid soap on top bushing when re-installing, but otherwise things went smoothly.

You must drop the exhaust to replace that bolt on a 6 cyl MB, such as my 300SE. On the V8's, there is more room.

If I recall correctly, I also think that is a locking nut in that setup. At any rate, my original set of fasteners went 275,000 miles and it was stiff as heck when I went to replace mine.

bolt removal
 

My experience apparently was different than some. The bolt came out reasonably simply once the exhaust shield was removed. With some angling, and a bit of dishwash soap on the upper bushing, I was able to relatively easily reinstall bolt in proper position. The bottom nut was also a one-time use nut, if I recall correctly.

I wonder if the fact that I had the car up on stands - both front wheels off the ground makes a difference in ease of removal/re-installation? Maybe everyone does not do this ???

It went just as it should have for your model. As I said , the trick is to give angle room by pushing the bushings out.

When I replaced mine, I did what Arthur mentioned. When getting the bolt in the correct way, I was able to move the exhaust ever so slightly and the bolt went right in.

This trick is applicable to 124 chassis.
A poster compares it to 126 chassis..it is not meant for 126 chassis , and was not posted pertaining to a 126 chassis............ just to clarify