Pulling the head on a 16-valve 190E (getting good at it now) to replace the chain guides and the oil pump. Seems you have to take the head off to get the front cover off.

Anyway, I need to remove the crankshaft pulley and have no lift, so I don't want to remove the transmission unless I have to, but I am not sure how to restrain the crank while I unscrew the fastener at the end of the crank. Anyone have any experience to share? Thanks, Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Put the trans. in gear this will use the rear wheels as a lock, you can also add more hold by placing the parking brake on too. JNT.

The factory tool locks the starter ring gear thru the plastic cover in the oil pan...I,m sure you can come up with a suitable way to hold it there.

__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

Another method is to stuff rope into one of the spark plug holes. This forces the piston to hold the crankshaft.

__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

I wouldnt do that to a lawn mower

If I were you, I'd try to put it in the highest geat (IE: 5th, hardest for the engine to turn) and engage the parking brake. If the brake holds the wheels, the tranny will hold the engine.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Thanks guys. I repeated this post in the "performance paddock" section and got some advice there we tried to follow. While travelling down that path we fashioned a brace that bolts to the front of the dampner on the crank after you take off the pulley. We put it across the engine bay to bear on the frame rail where the self leveling hydraulic reservoir normally sits (three bolts take it off), with a bit of plywood and a chunk of the flat bar to protect the rail. While the bolts bent (my dampner is aparently peculiar and uses wimpy fasteners to hold the pulley on), that big bolt finally came out.

I have been posting some photos and progress in this thread:
1986 190E 2.3-16 Chain Guide Rail Replacement

We are going to try to get to the point of removing the oil pan today. Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)