1988 2.3 190e failed emissions HC and NO twice the limit CO 1/4 limit
 

Hi all,

Well I still have a problem with my 190e,,,

Here are emission results

Failed tests

HC reading = 302.1 PPM Limit = 181.0 PPM
NO reading = 2736.3 PPM Limit=1313.0 PPM

Passed Tests

CO reading = 0.39 % limit = 1.16 %
CO2 reading = 14.14 % limit = N/A

Gas cap pressure passed

Here's the thread that started it all,,,

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/188697-1988-190e-2-3-rough-idle-stall.html

Well my TPS was mal-aligned as some P.O. idiot messed with the factory setting on the throttle valve. New readers,,, take note,,, IF your TPS sensor fails at the conenctor i.e. open circuit at idle, check the butterfly adjustment on the throttel valve,,, DO NOT CHANGE IT, it's factory set,,, just check to see if someone else changed it before you go and pull the throttle body off the valve to be able to remove the TPS

bite the bullet ... change your cat!

i think you might be better off replacing the fuel distributor.available for 350-400 rebuilt and calibrated.guar is 18mths.it seems as though one or two cylinders have to run rich in order to carry the lean ones.you didn't give the oxygen readings which might confirm this.

Just bring it to Alabama.

We don't inspect anything here and if you can push it into the street, you can drive it.

:freak:

You own stock in a fuel distributor remanufacturer? This is the second time you've told me to replace the fuel distributor and you haven't even heard/seen the car running, I PM you asking you for help and I get no response, so,,, :pukeface: :sombrero:

Car runs much better after aligning the TPS, idle RPM dropped from 1200 to 750 like it should be, need to check lambda again as now it seems the car is running properly. Who knows maybe I fixed a vacuum leak when i pulled the throttle body of the throttle valve assembly to check out the TPS.

For anyone that is interested,,, the TPS is a very simple contact switch. If you have problems with the TPS, first check the adjustment screw on the rear most side of the throttle valve. There is a screw that is factory sealed with yellow stuff. If that's been tampered with, well then your butterfly to TPS sensor is out of adjustment,,, no need to pull at that crap when you can readjust the sensor with an Ohm meter.

1 pin goes to WOT contact
middle pin is the common contact
other outside pin goes to idle contact

Looking from the top,,, WOT is about 10 O clock, while idle is at 6 O clock. The center pin travels between 6 and 10 depending upon the throttle position. The center pin does NOTHING in bwteen idle and WOT,,, simple contacts. at idle, 2 is shorted to 3,,, and WOT 2 is shorted to 1,,,

Mr. Poole is one of the better diagnosticians here.

You should be grateful that professionals like him are responding to you, and for free at that!

You might want to ask your questions in the forums. To be expecting detailed help via PM might be asking a bit much.

You could always take your car to the dealership and get out your check book.

Brewtoo you may be right,,, but let's looks at some history,,, the following quotes were all made this month (5/2007) by David to various other forum members regarding their performance problems ,,,


i think that you need another fuel distributor.there is too much o2 in the exhaust and that is probably from one or two cylinders not getting the same amount of fuel as the others.if correct you should see o2 levels down to .2 or .3%.try running engine at idle in gear with emergency brake on and open the fuel lines at the distributor one at a time and see if one or two don't make much diff.
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think you might be better off replacing the fuel distributor.available for 350-400 rebuilt and calibrated.guar is 18mths.it seems as though one or two cylinders have to run rich in order to carry the lean ones.you didn't give the oxygen readings which might confirm this.
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sounds like you need a rebuilt fuel distributor/and or a rebuilt warm up regulator.
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have you any idea how many miles are on your fuel distributor?
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plan on replacing the fuel distributor it will save a lot of headaches.
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you probably need fuel distributor.
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go get a fuel distributor,specialtauto.com then you will be at peace with your benz.
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David Poole may be a valuable contributor to this forum, by providing excellent advise, but I see a repeated attack on the fuel distributors,,, Now I don't know if mine is good or bad, but I was told (by David) to replace the fuel distributor before I found out that one plug was cross threaded and had a gap of about 80/1000's. Before I discovered that some PO adjusted the "idle" screw (Actually TPS sensor to butterfly valve calibration). Before even asking if I had checked for a vacuum leak, O2 sensor etc. When I read his post, it's like,,, this mf's crazy to think I'm gonna throw a $400 part at the car if I don't even know that the part is bad,,,

Now there may be some merit to replacing the fuel distributor,,, but what the hey, why not just replace the friggin engine,,, it'll surely run better then,,,

my 2 ¢

i have recently found out by doing some research on an emmissions dyno that the fuel distributors on all these cars have out of calibration issues.when they reach 120-150kmls there is enough dirt in them to mess up the calibration.just because it runs ok does'nt mean it's good.no i don't own shares or have any connection with specialtauto.com.if i had to recommend a 2000 dlr repair to a client to fix a prob they would call me nuts but now a better product is available for less than 500.my own car would never start easily when warm and i did everything possible except replace the distributor.after replacement it starts easily every time cold or hot,increased mileage from 13 to 18,has a lot more torque and will now easily pass texas emmissions without my having to play with fuel mixture.incidently it still has original cats.

well, in my case it is the reverse. changed most everything to no avail.
replaced cat, passed emission test.