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  #1  
Old 06-06-2001, 10:21 AM
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My drivers door check strap has been popping loudly for the past couple of months on my 84 190E. So I add some wd40 to it to shut it up (while in a rush to an appointment) and then the door wouldnt shut! The thing was stuck in the fully open position like a broken wing. Or like a broken collar bone.

So I forced it shut, bending metal all the way. Great? No more popping and no holding of the door while open, but I what I didnt bargain for was now the window will only go down half way.

Ugh. I ordered a new strap. I have not taken the door panel off yet, but I hope I didnt ruin the regulator or something else in there.

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'84 190E 2.3
'83 Porsche 944 (track car)
'84 Porsche 944 (parts car)
85.5 Porsche 944 (sled)
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  #2  
Old 06-07-2001, 04:53 PM
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Unlikely you ruined anything. You probably did tear some of the metal the check mounts to. I did exactly the same thing. My window butted up against the broken check within the door. A replacement solved everything. Don't even think of fixing one of those things. The ball bearings will be little projectiles in no time if you try to take it apart. Incidentally, they stick eventually because one or both of the balls corrode and/or the surface they travel on pits. The balls are in opposition to one another with a powerful spring in between. The spring forces them out against the track. If one does not retract as much as the other, it will eventually stick causing a torsional force on the whole check as it operates, which will eventually break the metal it mounts to. Both balls seldom stick, one is enough to cause failure.
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  #3  
Old 06-08-2001, 10:00 AM
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Thanx Benzfan

I havent received the parts yet and i'm surprised at the reasonable cost.

In any event, I'll blow the dust off of my MIG welder if the door metal is ripped up.
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'84 190E 2.3
'83 Porsche 944 (track car)
'84 Porsche 944 (parts car)
85.5 Porsche 944 (sled)
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  #4  
Old 06-08-2001, 09:36 PM
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Changing the straps and housing is pretty straight forward. Two 10 mm bolts where the strap enters the door and another two just a few inches from the doors edge under the door's panel. Mercedes door panels are unlike most and if you are not familiar with the procedure of removing them you will likely cause serious damage. They do not pop off... they must slide up and then out... Also be familiar with how to remove other attachments connected to the door and panel.

Tools reqwuired: 1/4" drive rachet with short extension and 10 mm socket. Flat head screw driver, Phillip's-head screw driver, needle nose pliers, hammer, punch and a human level of intelligence..

Smiles

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1993 190E 2.3
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  #5  
Old 06-14-2001, 09:33 AM
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Replacement Strap Installed

The new starp went in easily, however the old one did damage to the window track. The front vertiacl window rail was mangled. I had to bend it back into an acceptable shape to keep the window going up & down straight with out poping out of the rubber channel.

I have removed many door panels from many make cars, but I have to say that the 190e interior door panel is one of the best: sturdy, stout clips that can be used more than once w/ breaking, good fit.
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'84 190E 2.3
'83 Porsche 944 (track car)
'84 Porsche 944 (parts car)
85.5 Porsche 944 (sled)
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  #6  
Old 02-20-2002, 01:01 PM
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I am about to replace the door check straps and have already got the parts.

The new strap came with the strap in the inside position (corresponding to door closed). I tried to pull it out but it was very tight. Does it install in that position or the strap has to be pulled out?

It seems to me that it is installed with the door in open position.

Thanks.
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  #7  
Old 02-20-2002, 02:47 PM
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Pull the strap out before you install it. It will be much easier when you put the pin back in.
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'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
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  #8  
Old 02-20-2002, 02:49 PM
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Engatwork has a very good step by step in the "Do it yourself" section. It's for the 124 body but I think they're all about the same. Check it out. You can put the checkstrap tongue in a vise and use a prybar to extend it. It's easier to install in the open position. Just don't break the mounting flanges!
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  #9  
Old 02-20-2002, 03:43 PM
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Cap'n Carageous:

Thanks.

Yes, I did check out that article in the DYI section but it did not mention this extending the check strap before install. Most in that article talks about hoe to remove it.

I am gald I gave it a dry run in my mind and thought about this. Otherwise I will have a strapless door.
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  #10  
Old 02-20-2002, 03:53 PM
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One more thing I can tell you from exerience. Use a good quality replacement. I bought an aftermarket one and in three months it clunked louder than the one it replaced. I ended up removing it from the driver door and putting on one of the back doors. Next time I need one I'll get it from the dealer.
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  #11  
Old 02-20-2002, 04:25 PM
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The ones I have are made by Meyle (Germany). It looks pretty good.
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  #12  
Old 02-20-2002, 04:33 PM
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Good, the one I got had no marking whatsoever except the number 531 stamped on one side. Came in an unmarked plastic bag. $15.00 Junk!
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  #13  
Old 02-20-2002, 06:00 PM
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Mines came in big blue and white boxes like the box for an oil filter. Initially I could not believe they were for the strap.
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2002, 09:06 PM
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I don't think it is physically possible to line the hole up to drop the pin into with the strap retracted - the door should be pretty close to being shut at that time. You can take a large screwdriver and position it in such a way that you can force the strap out. The W124 door panel pushes up, the W123 door panel pulls out at the bottom and then pushes up - that is after all the fasteners and stuff are removed. Be particular with the plastic "barrier" you will want to re-use it.
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  #15  
Old 02-21-2002, 07:46 AM
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You can't put the pin in with the strap retracted unless the door is ... well, closed. It is easier to pull the strap out BEFORE it is installed on the car. After installation, space and access is limited and you risk scratching your car using whatever you can find (screwdriver, needle nose pliers, etc) to pull it out.

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'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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