Replacing Springs/Struts W124 ?s F/R
 

Yes, another spring question. With good time in search I was only able to find bits and pieces of the whole thing. So I need you experts to verify the procedure. I there's a DIY posted somewhere with this exact SOP, I missed it:

Front:
Jack front and rest on stand from the frame.
With floor jack load LCA.
Install spring compressor, snug only (insurance).
Remove strut top bolt.
Remove bottom bolts, remove strut.
Compress spring, remove and uncompress. Adjust floor jack if needed for more room
Compress new spring.
Install and uncompress until mounted, not 100%.
Install strut bottom bolts.
Uncompress spring 100%.
Tighten strut top bolt.

?s:
If LCA is supported with floor jack, will lowering the LCA slightly give me more room to remove/install the spring? Enough to where it is worth doing or will the LCA under load give me enough room to wiggle it out?

Rear (this one seems much easier):
Lift rear with floor jack from the subframe.
Support with stands at chassis, not subframe, do not remove floor jack from it's position.
Unbolt bottom bolts hydro shocks. Or top? But not complelely unless being replaced
Remove swaybar mounts at control arm only
With floor jack slowly drop subframe until springs 100% unloaded.
Replace springs.
Raise subframe with jack.
tighten lower hydro shock bolts and swaybar.

Sorrry if these are elementary questions. I'm a mech, but strictly Toyota and am new to this model and chassis but will be spending a lot of time on these beauties.

On aside, where can I get the "FSM" Factory Service Manuals (paper or electronic)?

Thanks!
Robert

Edit: I am keeping the OE hydro shocks in the rear.

I wouldn't loosen any bolts until the spring is compressed. Also, do not uncompress the spring until all bolts/mounts are tightened. I am assuming that you are using the proper spring compressor. If not, imagine life after the spring takes your nose off on its way through the wall :grim:

I'm using a Klann, so I'm kicking spring ass and taking names later!

On another note, I'm probably going to go ahead and replace the LCA bushings. I can't imagine that it will be any more difficult than nut and bolts for that no?

You do not have to take the strut off , just the top mounting so the CA can drop down far enough to get the compressed spring out. And I do not use the arm for jacking, I use the frame so if the arm needs a little pushing down with a bar, yo can get the spring easily out.

Quote
"Rear (this one seems much easier):
Lift rear on stands (not on subframe)
Unbolt bottom bolts hydro shocks.
With floor jack slowly drop subframe until springs 100% unloaded.
Replace springs.
Raise subframe with jack.
tighten lower hydro shock bolts."

Question - Is it possible to remove the rear springs without a spring compressor?

Regards

Just did the lower control arm bushings on a 201 chassis (190D). If I were to do it again, I would just buy new control arms. Bushings were easy enough, but the rear sets had rusted sleeves. Needed to chip away the rust scale to provide a clean bore for the new bushings. That took a long time.

The procedure I listed is a potpourri of several put together on this forum. One thing I forgot to list is the removal of the swaybar before dropping the frame, done at the same type as unbolting the shocks.

So the detailed revision goes:
Lift rear with floor jack from the subframe.
Support with stands at chassis, not subframe, do not remove floor jack from it's position.
Unbolt bottom bolts hydro shocks. Or top? But not complelely unless being replaced
Remove swaybar mounts at control arm only
With floor jack slowly drop subframe until springs 100% unloaded.
Replace springs.
Raise subframe with jack.
tighten lower hydro shock bolts and swaybar.

From the looks of it last night, this seems correct. Will know in a few days for sure and will revise as needed.

Thanks Arthur, yeah didn't quite make sense lifting from LCA then taking out the spring! :D (as the strut is also being replaced) Makes tons of sense being able to adjust the arm so that you can give yourself wiggle room if need be.

<<didn't quite make sense lifting from LCA then taking out the spring! (as the strut is also being replaced) >>

The main reason I mention the strut bolts was if one was changing the spring b/c it broke [ they usually break off at the bottom last 2" spot], you can often get away with original alignment with just the spring change if you leave the bottom strut bolts alone....but strut removal will require alignment.

On the topic of alighment, my understanding is to have this 124.092 Wagon aligned as a 1993 Sportline?

Final set up will be:
Sportline springs(heavy) F/R w/ 1pt pads
Sportline F struts
Sportline LCA bushings
Stock rear hydro shocks
500E rear sway
Stock front sway

17x7.5et37 Evos (Titanium) on 225/45/17s

I'll probably end up going with a front sportline or limo sway, but want to see how this set up drives first.