'95 E320 won't start
 

Hi everybody,
I bought a '95 W124 convertible (it's hot in DC) and I think it was a good deal. The car doesn't start at all since yesterday. What happened? I tried the amateur overwrite of the alarm (open the passenger door with master key). Didn't help. When I turn the key, I hear the fuel pump work. The courtesy light doesn' dimm dramatically when key turned, so I guess the starter gets no power...? Battery seems to be good, I connected even a jump starter to it to increase the starting power. No good. If it's the crank position sensor, shouldn't the starter at least turn? Shift lever was in P or N, didn't help. How about the ignition lock? Or how about slapping the starter? And did the W124 already have the computerized error code read-outs?
I know, too many questions, but I'm desperate.
Any help?
Harti.

Check fuse #5 in the fuse panel located in the engine compartment. Had the same problem with my 95 cabriolet last week. Good luck! :)

Got a test lamp or jumper wire ??????

'95 E320 won't start
 

Hi Arthur,
I have a lamp and a wire. What for???
Harti.

A few quicky test.
As JW posted., go to fuse box and see if you have 12v on each side of fuse #5 .. do not go to fuse end, but rather the connector that the fuse fits into..they are famous for having a poor connection right at the bullet ends and you can not see that, but a test lamp on each side will tell the tale..you can also just spin the fuse in it's holder and that usually cleans up the poor connection. The test lamp has to have a ground on one lead, the other lead on the fuse connection..
Anyway ,try that test first..if that is OK , I will post the next suspect for you..

Most of my experiences have been a bad battery except for one time when it turned out to be a bad starter on my 190E. In the 4 MB's I have owned, they wouldn't jump start when the battery's went bad and there was no warning. A friend of mine owns an Indy MB shop and he advised me to not go past 4 years on the original MB battery. Well, I didn't listen and was stuck in a Mall parking garage on a Friday evening. Luckily there was a Sears Auto store there so I put in a new battery and drove home.

I see that you have a '67 C2 Convertible...Big $ car and going up in value every year.

Good luck resolving your starting problem.

Dave

The neutral safety switch could be the problem, they sometimes break internally. The switch is on the side of the transmission, kind of hard to get to.

First thing tomorrow is check fuse #5.
I'll keep you posted.
Harti

That is a Key On test, by the way..

Fuse #5 changed, no success.
I'm going to change the battery just to rule out any faults on that side. Any other ideas before I see my friendly $$$$dealer?
Harti

Jerry,
can I test the neutral switch somehow?
Harti

Next test:

Locate the 3 wire connector on the firewall that seperates the brake master area from the engine. This connector is just to the left [ looking from the front of car] of the master cylinder..unplug the connector ..now, take a jumper wire and go from the bat pos+ terminal to the center terminal of the connector on the firewall [ not the harness you just unplugged]..make sure car is in N or P.. this test should turn engine over ifstarter/solinoid/battery are all OK. Key does not have to be ON for this test ..This test simple by-passes the NNS /Ignition sw/K38 relay and verifies those starter parts.
If that is Ok , do this next test:
Take your test light and hook one lead to a good ground and the other to the center wire on the harness you just took off firewall plug..
put it on windshield where you can see it [ or have a helper in car]
Now, with left hand, hold key over to start position and hold it there while ,at the same time , move shifter selector back and forth thru the gears , P and N .. Does the lamp light at any time?

Does not start means does not crank or it cranks but does not start ? If it does not crank, could be the battery or the starter. But if it cranks and does not start, there are other possibilities.

Okay, I changed the battery, without success. I did the KEY ON test with battery+ on the middle contact: nothing.
And finally: starter does not crank, no sign of life when ignition key is turned.
I have not tested the neutral switch yet, too many thunderstorms right now in my neck of the woods.
Any other tests, I can do at this point?
Harti

Arthur, I just read your advice again. If the key on test failed, isn't that a clear indication, that the starter or the solenoid has a problem?
Harti