Front left wheel is making a high pitched squeeking noise. It comes intermittently, but usually when the car is warmed up. The squeeking is a pulsing sound also. You can hear it get louder if you brake, go over a bump, or turn the wheel. It's not ALWAYS there though, probably about %50 of the time, once the car has been driven for awhile. I couldn't figure out which wheel it was coming from, but I knew it was on the left side. When I got home last night, I pulled into the driveway, put the car in Park, and the car rocked a little (put in park on hill) and the squeeking would squeek with the rocking of the car. I then determined it was from the front LEFT wheel.

Then this morning I took the car to my mechanic to check it out. We drove behind a business complex (along a wall to hear the noise better), and it wouldn't make the noise! Finally, after a litte listening, it was there. But it's a really high pitched pulsating beep, and he couldn't hear it! Maybe I'm trying to be conacted by a different world... :eek: Anyway, I could hear it well, but he couldn't hear it, like his ears could not pick up that high of a noise.

Well I know this will not be easy to diagnose without seeing it. But any places I should look? I have braked hard a few times to try and remove glaze build-up, but it didn't really help. Should I put some glaze stuff on there anyway, just to eliminate some possibilities?
Thanks everyone!

Could be a bushing, ball joint, or the strut piston. Try spraying everything with some penetrating oil ( one component at a time) and see if you can eliminate the squeek. Does not sound brake related.

It doesn't seem to be the brakes really, yes.
But are you sure the suspension? I am going to jack the car up tomorrow (John, of course no ramps!! :) ) and go over everything after taking the wheel off.
SO we'll see! Thanks for the help, and I'll post the results tomorrow.

Well another observation. The squeeks goes away when I brake, but then when I let off the brake it comes back a second or two later.

I took off the wheel today and took some pictures. Where should I look?

http://www.a-p-group.com/cklasse/Wheel%202.JPG

http://www.a-p-group.com/cklasse/WWWwheel3.JPG

http://www.a-p-group.com/cklasse/Wheel1.JPG


And this is of the brake.... look ok?

http://www.a-p-group.com/cklasse/Brakes.JPG

THanks guys.

There's nothing wrong with your car! You just wanted to post pics of your dirty bottom! :D :D

John,
I've had those pads on there for a few months now! (Maybe you will see that I'm not THAT hard of a driver... but I try and avoid hard braking, timing stop lights, releasing gas pedal early and coasting to light, etc.) I think they've been on there for about 8 thousand miles now.

But back to the squeak, where should I look!? I can still hear it and it's SO annoying!

Sway bar bushing(s)?

I would check the ball joint on the upper control arm. I had the same problem on my car about a month ago. I took off the whole arm. Removed the small protective boot. Moved the ball joint back and forth while spraying WD40 and re-greased the whole thing again. Putting back the boot takes some patience. Anyway, it's good as new now. If you have excessive clearance replace it. However, I think it comes as an assy with the upper control arm.

Vin

Ok,
You all suggest to do all of these things. But I know nothing about suspensions! What/where are upper and lower ball joints, sway bar bushings, ball joint on the upper control arm assembly (vinamgs idea), and sway bar busings? I only know where the shocks, springs, and brakes are.
Thanks for the help.

I'll try power washing it real thoroghly but I've washed the car, I'll try it again just to be sure.

Dave,

Look at your first picture. Do you see the goldish colored nut toward the top? That's your upper control arm ball joint. The ball joint is upside down. That J shaped arm that holds the joint is your upper control arm. The cylindrical part of the upper control arm that attaches to the body of the car is the housing for the upper control arm bushing.
The big arm on the bottom that holds the spring shock, etc. is the lower control arm. Same thing with this one. The two parts that connect to the car are the lower control arm bushings. On the opposite side where it attaches to the bottom of the steering knuckle is the lower ball joint.
Now look at the second picture. Left side middle of the picture you can see a round bar. That is your sway bar. If you follow it toward the wheel you'll see that it attaches to the lower control arm. The rubber part of the attachment is the sway bar bushing.

Any of these moving parts can cause squeaking. But the high pitch squeaking that you described sounds to me like metal to metal. Which could be dried up ball joints or the spring. I would check the ball joints. Start with the upper (tendency to dry up quicker since it's upside down, easier to get to).
Hope this helps.

Vinamg

Vinamg,
THanks for the parts description. Now that I know what is what, and what to check. What do I check for? How do I correct it? DO I need some grease or something? Thanks again.

John,
Thanks a bucnh for the advice. I will take the wheel off again tomorrow and check it out. How much does it cost to get them replaced?
Also, I have noticed an increase in steering wheel vibration again... is this also a symptom? Thanks again.

Try new shocks, the picture makes them look real bad.

Dave,

Two things to check for steering wheel vibration:
1. Check your front wheel bearings for play and re-torque them if needed.
2. Rebalance front tires

To check that upper ball joint remove that "goldish" nut and separate the upper control arm from the knuckle. Once off move the ball joint around and check for clearance. I am guessing that it will be somewhat hard to move (dried up). If there is no clearance you can try re-greasing as I described earlier or you can change it. This is a pretty simple DIY project.

As for lower ball joints they can easily be checked without removing anything. If these need to be changed you better leave it to your mechanic.

I doubt that you have a shocks problem. BTW, how many miles on your car?

Vinamg

Vinamg,
THanks for the help. I already put the wheel back on, so I'm probably just going to forget it. I removed the wheel earlier and and checked everything (even removed that one screw!), rinsed it all, but I just don't know really how or what to look for. Everything looks "ok" to me, but I'm not a tech and don't know for sure.
What's frustrating is that I took it to my mechanic, he can't hear anything! I'm going to take it back agian tomorrow, have them remove the wheel, check the wheel bearings, have them retorqued if needed, and check the upper and lower ball joints.
BTW, it has 90K miles, and I don't think the shocks are a problem.

Nonetheless, I have a few pictures to post.

http://www.a-p-group.com/cklasse/Suspension.jpg
The peice at the bottom is the upper ball joint, correct? Bigger pic below.

http://www.a-p-group.com/cklasse/BallJoint.jpg

And what is this? Is this anything that I should check?
http://www.a-p-group.com/cklasse/Suspension1.jpg

This is probably all pointless, I'm just going to take it in tomorrow and see what they can do. Alteast I tried!
What do you think the prices on these parts are? Thanks guys.

Hi David- as another possibility for your to consider in chasing this squeaking noise down.....

On the E320 Coupe, I had a squeak that was heard faintly in the cabin in circumstances nearly identical to yours. Naturally, I would be able to hear it and no one else would (techs or passengers).

Noise was occurring due to a semi-loose fender and bumper= problem rectified by re-torquing mounting bolts.

Prior to sourcing the culprit(s), there was an extensive search and discovery process that included replacing front windscreen together with multiple occasions SF Factory Authorized Service exhausted inordinate amounts of time reviewing cabin fittings, chair mounts, dash, interior/underneath dash technics, floorboard, engine compartment, suspension, vents, and more misc. "things". It was a real witch hunt where the source of the problem was not immediately proximate to where it manifested itself (since energy can travel through metal and plastic in any/every direction).

I know how irritating this is, so much so, that I was going to give the car away if that rock solid solitude of the cabin would not be restored.

Good luck and hope this helps.

Fad,
I'm sorry to hear about that! That's a real bummer.
But I know it's something in the front right wheel, and it's gotten a little worse, and all of my friends can hear it too, it's especially loud on the freeway in the carpool lane with the wall right next to me. I'm taking it over in about an hour. I work next door, so it's convenient. :)

David,

Try taking that right front tire off again. Grab the brake rotor (cool of course) and give it a pull. Does it move toward you? Next try to push in with the left hand and pull with the right and vice versa (with the steering wheel locked). Does it move? Now give the rotor a spin and listen (be sure not to catch any fingers between the center hub and caliper, it hurts big time). Do you hear or feel anything? If so, what?

I think it's your wheel bearing either needing to be tightened, replaced or repacked.

Be sure to have the car well supported on jack stands, or on a lift, before trying any of these procedures. Also try not to have any part of your body under the car when pushing/pulling or tugging on parts.

PS: Loose or worn wheel bearings can cause wheel vibrations and mimic symptoms of warped rotors when braking.

[Edited by MikeTangas on 06-19-2001 at 04:37 PM]

Mike,
Thanks for the tip, I'll try that.
As of now though, I took it over to the mechanic, we drove it again, and he STILL didn't hear it. So we went back over and I told him to take of the wheel and inspect. Another mechanic, Tony, really nice guy, jacked up the car, and spun the wheel, we could hear the squeeking/grinding noise. Then, he took the wheel off, visually inspected everything, said nothing looks out of whack. Then we spun the rotor without the wheel and couldn't hear anything. It all sounded normal without the wheel on. Then we put the wheel back on, spun it again, and we still couldn't hear the noise. It had gone away again!

Mike, and those directions about grabbing the rotor will help me determine if in fact it is a problem with the wheel bearings?
Thanks!

....appears that weight on the front end is necessary to observe the condition or cause condition to reappear....you should be able to chase this down since there are only a few possible culprits in the front suspension

and, thanks David for your reply,,,,my E320 Coupe received the necessary attention and is quiet and solid as a rock again,,, so E500 has a stable mate and isn't too lonely in the garage during the week.

David,

If there is any noticeable movement of the rotor when you grab and yank or work in/out that is a sign of loose/worn bearings. (Not to be confused with the possibility that the steering isn't locked and you are moving both wheels). If the rotor is moving you will feel it, maybe even hear it.

Did the mechanic pop the dust cover off the hub when he "visually" inspected everything? There wasn't any noise when the rotor was spun, but noise when the wheel was mounted and spun, correct?

With the car on a lift, and the suspension relaxed, all of the weight of that wheel was riding on that one bearing.

Hmmmm...

Yes, it didn't make the noise when the wheel was off, but then when we put the wheel back on, it didn't make the noise then either, so kind of frustrating. No he didn't pop off the dust cover... is that is what's in the center? The covering thing the juts out a little? My rear wheel doesn't have one of those, and I thought that was funny...

I'll do the test tomorrow!

Now I'm getting confused
 

I went back to look at your pictures, first post pinned it on left front, later it pinned the noise on right front. Which one is it?? :confused:

Either way, the dust cap is shown in your pictures. Yes, it's the piece that juts out from the center hub.

To access the bearings you have to pop that cap, just pry it off gently. It should be kinda greasy on the inside. The bearing will be retained by any of several methods (generic term for "I don't know how your's are retained"). You can check/repack the outers and retighten the assembly with out having to pull the calipers or rotors. To do a full bearing repack/replacement (inner/outer), you have to pull the calipers and rotors, plus replace the seal.

Mike,
I'm sorry if that was unclear.
It is the drivers side front wheel, hasn't ever changed! :)

But I noticed that my rear wheel doesn't have that bearing cap, is that important?

Nothing to worry about on the rear David. The rear bearings support the axle, and for lack of better terms, are internal and non-serviceable like the front wheel bearings.

So the rear should not have those coverings on them? I guess that's good to know, I was beginning to wonder why/how they weren't there! So if something happens, they simply get replaced? Unlike the front where they can be serviced...

My buddies,
I am going to San Fransisco tomorrow (about a 450 miles each way) in my Mercedes(!!). Well I was curious to knew if this is bad if in fact my ball joint is slightly worn/bad. Does it matter that much?
I have been a bit concerned and wanted to have it fixed by the time I left, but it can't be! So what do you all think?

Well today I took off both front wheels for comparison. I first took off the problematic wheel, and at certain turns of the wheel, while pulling and pushing, there was an EVER SO SLIGHT movement, or play. It was not 100% tight but it was sure close. Well I wanted to compare with the passenger side (a "good" wheel), and there was no play really at all. So does this mean balljoint? What is a ballpark figure for this? And can I go to San Fran and be ok? I can always get it fixed while I'm up there if it gets bad.

I also have vibration again in my steering wheel, is this also an indicator of a bad ball joint?

David, if that rotor had perceptible movement then I'd be getting that bearing retightened, repacked or replaced. Especially if you plan on running 450 miles each way. Once the bearing starts to go it won't be long before you are chasing one wheel down the highway while balancing on the other three.

Loose or worn wheel bearings can cause vibration too.

Excuse my language, SHlT!!!!!
What am I going to do? How long does it take to repack a bearing!? I have maybe an hour in the morning while I'm at work... but that's it. I have to drive stuff up to a few offices during that time. I plan on leaving by 12...
How long does it take?
How much does it cost?

THANKS!!!!!

As long as the bearing is OK, you can repack and tighten the outers in just a few minutes. For the quickie job, one doesn't even have to remove the wheels (if you have wheel covers that is). I haven't a clue as to what it might cost at the shop, that's been a home job for me, well, forever.

If the bearing is too worn, then the rotor has to come off, the races need to be punched out, then new races set in, plus a new seal on the inside. No idea what book time might be, but with parts in hand, maybe an hour a side.

Dave,

The proper way of testing is with the wheel on. You cannot test with the wheel off because the only thing holding the rotor is the small allen bolt. This could explain the small play that you felt. What you do is:

1. Jack up one side of the car
2. Grab the wheel horizontally and try moving it side to side (this is to test tie rods there shouldn't be any play if there is you need to change tie rods or drag link).
3. Grab the wheel vertically and move up and down. This is to test wheel bearing. If you have slight play you need to retorque the wheel bearing).
4. Repeat procedure on other side. Make sure to do one at a time. In other words one wheel has to be on the ground.


Checking ball joints requires some kind of bar and it gets a little more complicated because there is tension from spring. Better leave that for your mechanic. He can check it in about five minutes.

However, I am still leaning toward the upper ball joint. It's very simple to check. Have your mechanic disconnect the upper control arm and check the ball joint by moving it around. If it's dry, have it replaced. Your mechanic probably won't have the patience of trying to grease it up, since it's a sealed unit.

I think it's pretty safe to travel with the car. Just get it checked as soon as you get back.

Vinamg

Alright, I finally got around to jacking up the front left of the car (driver's side) and there was a little bit of play when grabbing the wheel and pulling/pushing it on one end.
Also, the squeeking has gotten quite a bit worse... when the car is warm and/or has been driven quite a bit then the squeak gets terribly loud and embarrassing!
I am going to let it get just a little bit worse before I take it in to get checked out again. I will have him check the wheel bearing and the upperball joint.
Also, which of the two aforementioned problems seems more likely to cause a vibrating steering wheel? It has gotten pretty bad and vibrating steering wheels drive me nuts. It's only when driving over 50 mph. I recently had a balancing, so I have ruled that out. It's getting progressively worse... and really annoying the crap out of me!
Also, what is a rough estimate on the repair for the upper balljoint or the front wheel bearing? THanks guys.

Dave,

Have the mechanic retorque your front wheel bearings. That should take car of the shimmy. Also, check the tie rods by grabbing wheel horizontally and moving left to right.
If the squeak is from the upper ball joint you'll have to replace the upper control arm. This job shouldn't take more than half an hour.

Vinamg

No more noise?!
 

Well the weirdest thing happened recently.... ever since my camping trip (see post in Open Discussion "Who says a Mercedes can't off-road?") the squeeking noise disappeared, all together... have not heard it since. Though the steering wheel vibration was still there, so today (3 days after camping), I had the tires rotated, well that cured the vibration completely. So the steering wheel vibration was caused by the tires, and the squeaking? Geez, I have no clue.
The car did get VERY dirty (for pix see post!) with tons of mud and the like. But I washed and sprayed everything thoroughly the day I got back. I then, on Tuesday, took the car to the self-car wash, and sprayed all the crevices, the wheel wells, and underside of the car thoroughly to rid what mud/dirt was still stuck.
Well, I guess my problem is solved (*knock on wood* ZEBRANO of course!). Thanks for everyone's help, I truly appreciate it.

Help--- Squeaking on right side
 

Well now it started sqeaking on front passenger side. I found the problem to be the upeer control arm bushings. They really look bad and I pinpointed the noise in those bushings while my brother shook the car.
My q is how difficult is it to change the upper conrol arm bushings.

Does any one have the steps for it. Please

MVK

I had worn rear bshings and they were not much money to have a GOOD dealer "alternative" mercedes mechanic fix them. Maybe try getting a quote...

David C Klasse
I had the same problem and went crazy looking for the cause. Replaced the front upper control arm bushings . Improved the ride but squeaking stayed.
Today I found out the problem its the lower ball joint on both side front. Rubber boot was cracked and so lube must have dried . Sprayed lithium grease with a thin nozzle in there. WOW problem gone no squeak at all. Now when I am ready I will replace those big budget lower ball joints. Ball joints are 16 bucks each bu labor is a killer about 350 to 400 bucks total.

MVK

-fad...

You were going to give your car away over a little squeak?! :eek:

Next time your car gets a squeak, drop me a line! I'll take it! ;)

mike