i tried to install lowering spring this weekend on my 95 c220 but i needed something to seperate the upper control arm and the steering knuckle so i can lower the lower arm enough to get the spring out. i got the kind from pep boy and they don't worth a dime. they are basically a bunch of fork shaped wedges that you drive into the joints by pounding on it. does anyone know where you can find the kind of universal joint seperator on haynes manuel that look like a double seesaw that you tighten a bolt on one end and seperate the joint on the other end?
thank you!

I got one at, believe it or not, JC Whitney for around $11. I was so impressed with it on first use that I bought several more and gave them as gifts. It usually doesn't tear the boots either which is a real plus. Just take your time getting it in far enough to do the job but no further.

At the last pull-a-thon at my favorite wrecker (all u can carry, $25) I observed a group of three guys pulling some suspension stuff off an Audi near where I was working. It became obvious they were struggling with a pickle fork and were taking turns slamming on it to exhaustion with no success. I walked up to them with the tool and silently handed it to one of them; he knew instantly what it was. He was back in 90 sec with a huge smile and said as he handed it back to me "That's one awesome Mutha F^%$#*& tool. Where'd ja get it?". When I told him, he replied that one of their catalogues was on his couch. There's probably one near yours too, or in the recycling bin!

thank you so much!!!!!!
i don't remember when was the last time i looked at the JC Whitney catalog but i sure will dig one up today. that darn pickle fork thing was the one i was using also. i didn't think it will work either but that's all they have here locally. you just save me $300 in labor charge if i have to take it to my mechanic!

I am shopping for a good joint seperator too.

I have a cheap "seesaw" from J.C. Whitney and I cannot get it to work. The folk shape tool works for me everytime. The problem with my cheap seesaw is that it flattens the tip of my tie rod end making it uselss. Maybe, I just do not know how to use that seesaw tool.

IMPCO (www.************************) has a tie rod end remover (p/n 99-611) and it looks like a double seesaw. It is expensive, around $90. I do not know how well it works.

By searching around, I found the following tools:

http://www.autospecialtytools.com/cgi-bin/dyn.exe?doc=z3b3415c4OB.dht&shopsid=2ab95a84

It appears to me that these joint removers (M3029 and 266H) have a ball shape contact at the end of the pusher screw. I think they will not flatten the tie rod end as my cheap seesaw tool does.

Here is another joint remover/installer tool that I am thinking about :
http://www.toolweb.com/skyway/store.cfm?CFID=183822&CFTOKEN=10884776&do=detail&partno=AST7897

Any comments on these tools?

David





[Edited by be459 on 06-25-2001 at 01:07 AM]

You raise a good point. The key to not deforming the threads on the post with any of these tools is to loosen the nut far enough that it can be turned off at the end of the process when the stud is free to spin (ie, past the Nylock portion) but still low enough that the nut protects the end of the stud. Sometimes the locking nut must be removed entirely and a non-locker used as a surrogate. I set the nut so that it stands flush with or just slightly proud of the post. A small robust piece of steel can also be placed on top of the nut to further reduce the liklihood of damage. Doesn't your fork ruin the grease boot every time?

Don't know what the product being shipped today looks like but my "cheapie" is very nicely finished and chrome plated. To be honest, I was amazed at the quality when I got it.

I got my cheapie seesaw from JC Whiteney about 15 years ago but I am using the fork to do the work. My other concern, besides deforming the threads, is the breaking of the cheapie tool causing personal injury. The fork will cause two small cuts, but this way, at least, I know I can finish the job the same day. I will try your way to protect the threads when I find a comfortable tool to work with. Thank you for the reply.

David

[Edited by be459 on 06-26-2001 at 02:55 PM]

I'd almost have to believe we are talking about two different renditions of the tool. Mine is an extremely solid piece that I can't imagine breaking in use (unlike my spring compressors!). It weighs several pounds and the pivot pin is at least 3/8". I'll try to post a pic. By all means, though, use what you are comfortable with. I hate ending a "maintenance day" injured. Nearly every time it's happened, I've had a nagging feeling that I was doing something stupid.

Is this the item you speak of? http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=37080&BQ=jcw2

__________________
MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty