Ignition problem! key will go in but not turn.
 

Ok so I've got a 1994 mercedes e420 and I have a ignition problem, my key will go in but will not turn. I think eather my key is worn out or therers a problem with teeth in the ignition. So please help it's my daily driver.

And I've tried everything jiggeling the steering wheel the key while in the ignition and i've used wd40 to see if it would loosen anything.

if the car is not on an incline with the wheels locked, causing a lot of pressure on the steering wheel lock, and therfore making the wheel jamb up against the locking bar and jamb up the ignition cylinder...your ignition cylinder has gone bad. If that is the case, they are prone to breaking and having a problem like you described, you will have to replace it. If you are not handy...it is not a fun job by any means. Most people have to pull the cluster tjust to get at the lock mechanism that has to be ground out and pulled from the back side of the dash. If this does not sound like fun to you, call a local indy shop that deals with MB or the dealer. The new lock cylinder has to come from the dealer anyhow, if you want it to match your key. i think they run about $130-175. There is a lot of time involved in replacing a bad cylinder. Several posts on the forum on how to do the job too. Do a search. Good luck. I know at least once, the real problem was the wheels where turned to the max and the car's weight was pushing on the wheels, locking the wheel to its max position and the steering wheel lock can get wedged tight in that position. Try either putting a lot of pressure on the wheel one way of the other when trying to get the key to release. I hope for you that is the situation, but usually the lock cylinder has gone bad when the key wont turn anymore.

well Ill probably buy it on line cuz I have a buddy that used to be a mercedes indy car machanic. He was in the pits. So he would do it for me. I foud a ignition lock cylinder for $60. http://www.autopartsheadquarters.com/epc-jobs.asp#803017

sounds good. If I were you I would do a seach on the forum for "replace ignition cylinder" lots of info and many say that the aftermarket cylinders are hit and miss on quality.
Several people have talked about this and many give very detailed instructions on how to do the job. Might be helpful

Try these links:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/190417-keys-do-not-turn-new-cylinder.html?highlight=replace+ignition+cylinder

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/142232-ignition-cylinder-tumbler-replacement%3B-mixed-diesel-gas.html?highlight=replace+ignition+cylinder

The ignition cylinder is going to fail on EVERY W124.

Replace it.

Thanks, i'm going to take it in some time. Leaving town this weekend and wont have time so maybe next week.

Yes, they eventually fail on many W124 and W201 cars. It is just a hope that they get grumpy and you change them before the break with the key in them or wont turn anymore. They fix is not fun and it is irritating.

The key point to remember here is that if you remove the ignition cylinder that is going bad before it fails it takes 5 minutes and you can still start and drive the the car with the key or a screwdriver... if the cylinder fails you are looking at a full days work to be able to even turn the steering wheel for a propper tow, and the likley hood of having to replace the additional $150.00 worth of parts you will have to cut out.

Exactly, It is nice when the key and cylinder start telling you there is an issue by making it harder to turn the key or unlock the steering wheel. That is when you should take the time to replace and it is an easy task. But it is when it goes bad without warning, or someone is unaware of what the lock is telling you that it goes bad and the job gets more difficult.

where would i look to see how to do the ignition switch that wont turn on my 1992 300se w140 i had to get it towed home,and how much are parts?

It's an epidemic!

If you can get the ket to turn, this:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-sl-discussion-forum/145316-removal-ignition-switch-barrel.html
...is the procedure. If you can't get the key to turn... god help you. Try searching "140 tumbler" or 140 tumbler stuck or broke variants, and read alll you can... this could get pricy.

God Help Me
 

I have did all of the tricks it has to be replaced(800.00-1000.00)i searched already, i will check your link and go back to crying,hope my gal dont catch me:laugh3: I read your link it was helpful,I have tried to get that north texas video but links no longer work or the site gives no reference to it,this video is the one for W140 which i need, mine broke 8-3-07 almost a month ago.

Thanks guys I took it in and it got fixed. Only $260. He was able too keep the tublers. only took him about 2 days, but he had other cars at the shop so who knows. But thanks your answers were wright and dead on. Thanks again

How do you know if you just got the car?
Its been to Enriques
he's started it many times
He never mentioned anything about ignition
He did mention about drivers door

I;m just worried as last night the steering wheel locked
& I had to turn the wheel to turne the key.
Maybe thats normal?

Handbook says you can lube door lock wpowered graphite
What about ignition lock?

Just don't want a simple fix to become a nightmare

Where would I go to access & fix?
Assuming MB can get a duplicatelock for a Euro
it gets more complicated

Thanks

Camalotshadow,

Just be observant when you are turning the key in the ignition and if it ever catches, binds, jambs, or fails to turn freely...start to question the cylinder. If it does it more than once or twice, consider changing the cylinder. I would expect the dealer can get the correct cylinder for a Euro, if it cant, you can always order a generic cylinder w/ key and go that route, not an issue. The door locks are completely diff and dont cause nearly the issue when and if they go bad. Easy to change and you can still get in the car by the other door, or even opening the truck if the vaccum locks still work, unlocking the trunk will unlock your doors at the same time.
I would just keep an eye on the ignition cylinder and note if it gives you any troubles. It is not uncommon for the steer wheel to need to be pushed or pulled one way or the other to relieve pressure on the locking bar in the ignition cylinder. It is not really an indication of the cylinder going bad, it is usually more of an indication that the pressure on the wheels is binding the locking bar, say if the car is on an incline, the wheels are on a rise or pushed into a bump or curb, or just at a spot that is causing tension for what ever reason.

Thanks
Will take more notice
Hard to sometimes keep track of this n that lock
Priority would be ignition.

Thinking key too

Think ignition has pretty much only had that one incident
but it might be a bit wierd getting the key in sometimes

I don't know if they have a up or down
the cut seems too be different
SO I would think they have a spatial orientation
but that gets confusing

turning reallyu isn;t problem w door locks either
its getting the key in
Could be that metal door flap?
it might get inthe way
I might notbe used to it

Also may be too much play on door latch

It got lubed & its closing better
I used to have to close it a few times to get it to close all the way..

Just want to get this figured out before I take it in the road..

:D

Thanks

Keys do get worn and can give fits. No harm in having a new one cut. Must be done by dealership, call them for cost. Usually have to go in with title or at least the car and your car registration and then they order one by the VIN. Call to make sure they can do the Euro key at the dealer you choose.
Takes a couple days usually. Lube the ignition lock sparingly.