My parking brakes are a drag (pics!) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Blaine · #1 09-04-2007, 10:45 PM

So I replaced my rear rotors and parking brake shoes on my '92 W201 because the lip inside the rear rotors was so large it was hard to get the rear rotors off.

Now I've been having problems with the car being stuck in place after being parked for several days.

I'm thinking that my parking brakes are sticking.

I removed the rear rotors and shot these pics.

It looks like the parking brake cable is maybe giving up the ghost.

Does the cover usually pull away from the cable like mine is doing in this pic?

TIA.

t walgamuth · #2 09-05-2007, 06:18 AM

That in itself probably wont cause a problem. It is loaded in tension and will simply pull it together. But if it is staying apart like that all the time it means that the cable is rusted to the sheath. YOu might be able to apply oil and work it loose though.

If it is rusted and stuck in the stretched position it may be causing the brake to drag.

Tom W

Blaine · #3 09-05-2007, 08:26 AM

The sheath does pull together when I pull the emergency brake but I think the exposed cable has rusted and is sticking.

I guess I'll just order new cables since they are only about $20 ea. and see how that helps.

I just hate working with all of the rusted springs that hold the shoes on.

Ferdman · #4 09-05-2007, 09:42 AM

Blaine, clean-up/replace the rusted springs and entire mechanism so the emergency brakes function properly.

wbain5280 · #5 09-05-2007, 09:52 AM

The star-wheel in the parking brake mechanism inside the top-hat needs to be adjusted properly. The equalising adjustment where the two cables meet should not be adjusted except to take up some slack in the cables.

You get to the star wheel by removing one of the lug bolts and inserting a screwdriver to make the adjustment. Rotate the tire to locate the star wheel, using a flashlight to see where it is of course.

Blaine · #6 09-05-2007, 10:56 AM

Warren - I have adjusted the parking brakes with the star wheel so that there are about three "clicks" before the hand brake gets tension.

The problem is that once they are set, I don't think they are releasing when I let off the hand brake and then they drag.

Thanks for your help.

wbain5280 · #7 09-05-2007, 11:22 AM

They are supposed to be spring loaded. Also, there are springs holding the parking brake shoes in place that are a PITA to remove and install without the proper tool, I know this from personal experience.

What say you?

Blaine · #8 09-05-2007, 12:35 PM

Just went to the dealership and picked up all new parts.

The cables are the best deal in MB parts ever. $25/ea. and they look like they should cost $250.

The shoes for the hand brake from MB come as a kit with all of the springs. Last time I replaced them I used OEM pads that did not come with the springs. The MB parts for only $50 are a much better deal.

I also picked up a pair of the piviots that the cables mount too.

Hopefully this should solve the problem.

Blaine · #9 09-06-2007, 08:51 AM

Just a follow-up on the parking brake / emergency brake cable replacement.

The job was a bit harder than I thought mainly due to some corrosion welds J. Maybe a 5/10 on the PITA scale.

Tricks I learned are:

1) get the full factory parts kits with all of the springs, bolts, expanders, etc. Also I bought new expanders – the part that connects the cable to the shoes. Before you take everything apart, note the orientation of all the springs, especially the lower retaining spring on the shoe assembly that is asymmetric, and the orientation of the expanders.

Note – you have to use a punch to remove a little round set pin that holds the cable end to the expander. This is best done after cutting the old cable (see 3) and removing the expander. Keep the old set pin.

2) I wish I had bought replacement clips for the mounts where the cables connect to the body (one on each side).

3) I cut the cables with a Dremel at the exposed point in the pictures that helped with the removal of the old cables a lot. The ends that bolt to the points behind the rear discs did not want to come off due to corrosion. I removed the bolts (one on each side), cut the cables, then used a socket extension from the brake disc side and pushed out the stuck cable housing with a few taps from a hammer.

4) When you go to put the new cables on, first run the front ends through the rubber grommet and connect the front ends to the coupler. This part was the biggest PITA for me. You need a lot of slack in the cables to get those front ends back on that coupler. For the drivers’ side I ended up having to remove the tension spring. Once you do that and remount the cables with the clips, you can go back to the rear points. The rear ends of the cables went back on much easier.

5) I found that when replacing the parking brake shoes, first put the upper spring and star wheel (fully retracted, in the correct orientation) together with the two shoes, place that assembly back on, then connect the lower spring in the correct orientation (one of the ends is just slightly longer than the other), then replace the retaining springs that you push in and twist. Make sure everything is even and centered then replace the discs and adjust the shoes.

Hope this helps.