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  #1  
Old 09-06-2007, 08:43 PM
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EGR tube clean-out on 95 E320

I'll apologize in advance... the EGR tube cleanout issue has been well-covered... I am just trying to be sure.

Where the tube attaches to the manifold it is on the side of the manifold, not the top, correct?

Thanks

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Tim Benner

00 ML320 170K
95 E320 wgn 160K
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  #2  
Old 09-06-2007, 10:08 PM
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Correct. Attached with two bolts. The front one can be reached from the top but it's easier to get the rear one from below.
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  #3  
Old 09-07-2007, 04:42 PM
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Gary
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Georgetown, TX
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Just did this job this weekend. I'd been putting it off for a while, but it really wasn't as bad as I expected. Took less than 30 mnutes to get the tube disconnected where I could run a bicycle cable through it. Never did get it to go all the way through, but I was able to get it at least a foot into both ends. I believe all the blockage in mine was really limited to the first inch on the intake manifold side. It was necked down to practically nothing right at the intake manifold.

Get at the intake side bolts from the bottom. 10mm gear wrench worked great. The only other partially hidden screw is the backet back behind and below the oil filter housing. This is a 5mm allen, if I remember right.

I went ahead and removed the EGR valve completely, and tested it with a Mityvac, but I didn't really see any gunk here at all.

I purchased my car from a Mercedes dealer mechanic, who said he had just replaced the EGR tube at 80K miles when I bought it. Now has 141K miles. At this rate, I'll have to do it again @ 200K

Gary
1995 E320
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1995 E320
1984 300D
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  #4  
Old 09-07-2007, 07:10 PM
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That provides enough insight to overcome my inertia

Thanks for that Gary. I can see the bolts on the flange (manifold) end and the allen screw at the top of the oil filter. But I don't see another bracket below / behind the oil filter housing. I can partially see where the tube curves behind the head but no bracket. The engine wiring harness obstructs the view behind there. Moving those wires give me some pause although the harness has been replaced in this car.

Is the bracket under the wiring harness?

I spotted the 2nd bracket but not the screw... Trying to figure out how to remove that one. Getting it back on could be a challenge.

Thanks again,
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Tim Benner

00 ML320 170K
95 E320 wgn 160K

Last edited by tbenner; 09-07-2007 at 07:52 PM.
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  #5  
Old 09-23-2007, 10:52 AM
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HELP! can't get to EGR tube bracket

I have finally gotten to the EGR tube cleanout project. The 10mm bolts are out, the connection to the EGR valve is off. The 5mm allen to the top of the oil filter housing is out. Great! Getting excited!

The 5mm bracket bolt behind/beneath the oil filter housing... How in the world do you get to that? I cannot get my hand down there let alone a wrench... can't get my hand up there from the bottom either.

But it is so close. If anyone would share their trick to getting to this allen bolt I would be *most* appreciative!
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00 ML320 170K
95 E320 wgn 160K
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:37 AM
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Do you have an allen/hex key attachment for your ratchet? I used this and a long extension for my 3/8 drive and didn't have any trouble...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/hex-socket.jpg
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  #7  
Old 09-23-2007, 02:07 PM
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Taking the pipe off is tricky. I pulled this ramrod job off...

I had the delightful Check Engine Lamp, Code 5 - EGR failure. My first thought was block-off the bugger and pull the CEL bulb but was never convinced EGR wasn't needed for proper combustion chamber temperature. I'm still not sure if the Euro cars even have EGR's?

Applied vac to the valve and she leaked. The dreaded pipe to the intake stared back scaring me. Tracing it out I realized it would take a rubber arm to break the fitting hiding under throttle body.

Okay, ordered the valve and gasket and went in. I juiced her up with my favorite penetrating oil and nothing, she won't break. I applied the stuff liberally over a few days before the weekend. The (2) 10mm bolts loosened, backing out the studs but still no go on the pipe fitting. I found the swing clearance a bit tight with a 19mm wrench. Hate to do it but an 8" crescent (adjustable) fit right over it with a 3 foot cheater pipe slid over the handle. Grit teeth and pull - pop she broke. You could try the propane torch heat method if needed.

Before patting myself for exceptional hillbilly skills I tested the pipe. I slipped a hose over it and blew. Yep, clogged air tight. Reading other posts before starting, I grabbed the suggested weapons. I chopped down an old speedometer cable and tried hand snaking it through. Went in about a foot and bound. Mounted it in a drill and with slow speed rotation the cable crawled through much further and stopped hard. Time for chemistry. I inserted the test hose with a funnel stuffed in it and poured an ounce of kerosene down. Using an air hose with a rubber blaster tip near the fitting, I gave her a few shots which blows vapor down the pipe. Watch you eyes on this one. Snaking it revealed serious goo back pulling the cable.

Procedure: Air blow solvent then snake. Retest by pressing the tapered air tip into the line (tight seal) and listen to the hiss. Repeat as needed. I had to do it about six times at 50 psi to clear. I flushed the black-goo through the pipe with Seafoam added thinking as a de-carbonizer it might help melt the gunk flowing down the intake. Now pour some Seafoam in a squirt bottle and hose down the throttle body to complete the flush.

She runs great with EGR back and no check engine lights. Shops bid this job at four hours. It takes about that long to clean your hands afterward.
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  #8  
Old 09-23-2007, 09:03 PM
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Done!

New plugs, new spark plug connectors and a clean egr tube. It purrs bit I haven't had time to really drive it.

I will not clean the EGR tube again. That took much more time than breaking it loose. And getting it loose was a time consuming PIA. It now makes more sense to me to just replace it with the non-clogging part.

The plugs I pulled out were Bosch Platinum 4s. The car ran with these since I got it. But... warm starts always required partial gas pedal. Now it requires no pedal to start. Just turn the key. It likes the copper plugs much better.

My only concern with the project was that #5 plug tube had oil in it. The plug was clean, all 6 had greyish deposits, but this plug connector had oil on it. Perhaps a seal? I hope!

Thanks to all for your help!
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00 ML320 170K
95 E320 wgn 160K
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  #9  
Old 09-23-2007, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbenner View Post
My only concern with the project was that #5 plug tube had oil in it. The plug was clean, all 6 had greyish deposits, but this plug connector had oil on it. Perhaps a seal? I hope!
You need a new valve cover gasket, which comes in a kit with 6 little rubber donuts that go around the spark plugs. Not a big deal.

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