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#1
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Oh God, what did I do???????
Stumbled upon a 87 560SEC, very nice body, interior, runs good, most everything works, 114500 miles. At this point, I think, a week later, I got it at a steal, $2100. Boy does it run nice on the highway. Moved up from a 88 BMW 325i, first Benz.
Now, the main problem. The PO said that he had some intermittent problems with he driver window, sometimes he had to fiddle with the switch to get it to work. From his description it sounded like the switch. I know the guy and trusts what he tells me. At first I had no problem but on about the third day, the window went down but couldn't get up. When I tried hit the switch to raise the window, the switch was jammed, it wouldn't push. OK, switch went bye bye. There was another switch on the car, put it in and pushed to to raise the window. Switch worked, window didn't. Switch worked in other positions. Tried So, been pricing motors but I have a hard time believing that the motor is the problem. The window went up and down fine, no hesitation, strange noises, nothing. It worked good until the switch broke. And the switch did break, the rocker switch stopped rocking. Oh yea, the fuse is fine. Any ideas before I sink a couple hundred in the motor and tear the door apart? Is there something else that it could be, relay, etc. It is going to rain sometime. Thanks, Reed |
#2
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The sec windows are long and heavy. Did it feel like it was on track correctly? Sometimes some of the guide parts get loose and they will kindof jam up.
Sounds like a good deal. Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#3
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Most models have a relay between the switch and the motor...get a hold of a wiring diagram and see if yours does too and examine it. It could also be a broken wire in the door hinge joint. Try activating the switch while opening and closing the door.
You should be able to see if the motor is getting power if you pull off the door panel and test with a volt meter at the wires while activating the switch. If it is you know it is the motor, if not it is in the wiring to the motor. This isn't all that hard to track down.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#4
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Even if the motor needs to be replaced you can get a used original cheap one from one of the junkyard.
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Master Computer Engineer, A+, Network+, MCP/MCSA/MCSE 4/2k/2k3 - Messaging, MCTS, MCITP, MCT, Brainbench, ICDL and starting Ph.D 380SE 1984 <------- Totaled by flipping accident 300SE 1988 <------- Sold Volvo S70 2000 <---- 4 family Opel Omega 2002 <-- 4 family 560SEC 1989 <------ Sold 560SEL 1990 <------ Sold 560SEL 1991 <------ 4 my mother 560SEL 1989 <------ Sold 600SEL 1992 <------ Current http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZkhazenzcc |
#5
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First thing I'd do would be to pull the door to bits and look for 12V at the motor terminals when the switch is depressed.
Don't go buying anything until you've done that. |
#6
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Thanks to everyone.
I was hoping that someone would come up with the magic bullet before I took off the door. The switch works in other locations. I can hear no noise when the switch is depressed. I would imagine any relays would be for all windows, not a relay for eash one. Unfortunetly, I don't have any diagrams to work with yet. I hate taking interior panels off, it seems almost impossible to get them back on right. I may tackle that tomorrow. Can the car be driven with the inside panel off? If I remove the panel and have to get a motor, I don't want to put it back on again until I install the motor. Anyway, thanks for the replies. I'll be back |
#7
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The windows are two to a circuit. lf an rr, rf and lr. The door panel is not too hard and is not too hard to get back, just take your time and you will have it off in about a half an hour. Find all the screws, some are kindof hidden under garnish moldings. There are screws under the black garnish in the door unlatching handle, big screws going up at an angle under the armrest and then when all the screws are out, you must lift the panel up. It has lugs that go in a slot and then it all slides down, be careful as these lugs are plastic and can break if you arent. The seat switches knobs pull straight out. just a tight fit.
The seat and door switches suffer from lack of use. Check out the thread here for switch disassembly and cleaning. just take your time and it will be fine. Good luck Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#8
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Don't panic I know how you feel. It's probably just the switch, but even if it's not its not bad to repair. In my case 420SEL one window needed a switch; one needed the plastic slide for the mechanism plus a little dressing up of the aluminum track with a small file, and everything is OK. The more you work on it the less scared you'll be; you'll get confidence. It's really a fine car, no matter it's age.
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#9
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the motors usually don't fail.
I'd pop the switch out of the center console (it should just have some spade connections in the back) and take it apart. Simple, and I'm sure you'll use the knowledge again - the switches do seem to collect dust and dirt after 20 years of use!
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#10
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Well, I didn't get to it yesterday but I plan on in the next couple days. Since you all say it is easy, I'll take your word for it. One more question, is there a limit switch that could have caused the problem? Let you know know what happens.
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#11
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OK, it's not the motor. Removed the panel, had no voltage to the terminals. Other three windows operate. Switch is new, it will operate other windows, other window switches will not operate driver window. Fuse is OK.
Jumped 12v to the motor leads and the window went up, but won't go down now. What else is between the switch and the motor. I was losing light, couldn't really see the wires where they enter the door. Where is the 12v entering the switch. At least it can rain now. |
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