After an attempt to change my own oil, and almost stripping the bolt, I realized that the prior owner of the car did one of 2 things, either put the bolt back on with an impact gun, or used a wrench the size of a person to torque it so tight, that conventional methods will not take it out. The problem now becomes, that I have to get this fixed. I have access to multiple donor cars, and can get another oil pan no problem. However, after searching cannot find any information on this job.

What is involved in removal of an m103 oil pan? I understand there is a gasket, and then what, just bolts? Is this something that can be done quickly, or should I let my mechanic handle it? In my readings, it becomes apparent that it would be more involved to tap out the bolt and set a new one.

I don't have access to a topsider/called around to oil change places to see if they have one, but none of them do (apparently, but you think they would). Instead they want to put in a temporary plug, but the word temporary scares me, and I don't want anything temp on my engine that could be another weak link and pos. ruin my day when cruising down the highway at 80.

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87 300E
202k on the clock

http://www.kodiakoutback.com/detail.aspx?ID=923&utm_source=nxtg&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=cmp1

have also read about this nifty gadget, is this the one needed/does this come with the proper fittings to slide down my oil dipstick?

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87 300E
202k on the clock

anyone?

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87 300E
202k on the clock

I cannot imagine that replacing the oil pan would be easier than repairing the drain.

As I remember it, the engine must be raised with a hoist and some of the steerling linkage must be removed.

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

If you're really crafty you can lift up the engine with a hoist and snake it out, but in most cases it must be removed before you can really separate the oil pan. Bring the car to a muffler shop and have them weld a bigger nut onto the drain plug, that should do it.

Ask around, But I am almost sure the oil pan replacement or removal involved at a minimum, lifting the engine, if not nearly removing it. That is why no one is too interested in every changing the in the pan oil pump that can cause problems, you have to pull the engine. The lower body cross member is in the way to lower the pan down below the car. I hope you can find a different option. I have often seen something welded to the problem nut and then the new addition used to remove the problem fastener, look around to see if a shop can help with that first would be my recommendation

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Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

If you were smart I would remove the engine to do this since its kinda of a pain in the ass to do it in the car. Tap the holes before reinstalling the new oil pan.

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

You have to lift the engine a few inches to maneuver the oil pan over the cross member. The engine will be pressed against the firewall. Be careful not to break anything.

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

I recently had exactly that problem with my 260E. Drain plug installed with super human torque.
I tried Irwin bolt extracters, they just rounded off what little hexagon I had on the bolt.
This is what I did.
Carefully used a Dremel (or equivalent tool) and removed the lower part of the washer that is part of the original pan bolt. This let me see the copper washer underneath. I used a very slim screwdriver and tapped the washer up. This freed the grip a little on the bolt. I then used the Dremel tool to create to flats opposite each other on the remainder of the bolt head. Very very tight Vise grips and as soon as it broke loose, I removed it by hand.

I didn't take pictures as I didn't think it was going to be a big job. I hope this helps.
Michael

JE. Why would you want to replace an oil pan for a drain plug that doesn't want to come out? If there's enough of the drain plug head left to get hold of, just impact it out. If, on the other hand, the bolt head is damaged, then use several cobalt drill bits, starting with a smaller one first, to drill out the drain bolt. Center punch and then drill slowly. At some point along the way, when the bolt head is mostly drilled away, the remainder of the bolt will probably turn out by hand. If the pan threads are damaged (and they probably won't be if you've drilled carefully), a very effective repair is a TimeSert. Probably better than the original threads. Returns the hole to the factory thread pitch and dia. Then just buy a new factory drain plug w/ seal ring and all should be well. Can't imagine the whole job taking over a couple of hours.

Good use of a dremel tool, I think that is a good option, I never move an engine unless I have to...

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Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red