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  #1  
Old 09-27-2007, 10:50 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: westchester, ny
Posts: 747
ac delco sparkplugs found in 300e

My 300e developed sluggish response from a full stop, and limited power going up hills. I pulled a plug, and discovered not bosch plugs but these ac delco, one of which was obviously gapped too wide. Pulled them all and found one with a long crack along the plastic insulator, apparently shorting out the plug so the engine was working on only 5 cylinders. Replaced with lightly worn bosch non-resistors from the parts car. Feels like a new car.

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87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
88 300ce (red/cream; amg body kit)
93 300ce cabrio (white/blue/blue top)
93 300ce cabrio (black/grey/black top)
98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
99 clk320 (black/grey/black top)
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  #2  
Old 09-27-2007, 10:52 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Decatur, Illinois, USA
Posts: 616
amen for Bosch non resistor plugs! People rejoice! They triumph again!
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1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red
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  #3  
Old 09-28-2007, 12:49 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Golden Valley, AZ
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I tried to buy Non- Resistor plugs for my 1984 380SE today. not a non- resistor plug in the parts house. Had NGK plugs, Champion and one other brand that I do not recall, but no non-resistor plugs.

My 380SE is have the Cold No idle thing and i am chasing it. I need to get the idle fixed so I can Smog the car.

I took off the distributor cap and discovered that all the poles were carboned up badly and the contact on the rotor as well. I spent two hours cleaning the poles and the rotor as a first job to do tracking this idle problem.

Second I squirted carb cleaner at all the vacuum hoses that I could find and no rpm increase.

Third, I took the Idle fuel valve off and cleaned it with Carb Cleaner(it wasn't that dirty) and replaced it.

4th , I removed the OPV relay and cleaned the contacts. I didn't un-case it. because I do not have another yet.

5th, This was a offhand thing. The car was idling but high and would drop back then increase, then drop back. As it was idling like this I tapped the Idle control module on the firewall lightly and the car died. Thinking it a coincidence, I restarted the car and it idled the same way again, I tapped the ICM lightly and it died again. I took the ICM out and cleaned the contacts, and took the cover off gently, looked at all the connections. they appear solid. The Mother board is only coated with the shellac down to the last row of transistors or other components. I re-assembled the ICM and plugged it back in. Car started up.

6th. I unplugged the water temp sensor, made no difference. Not knowing which sensor is which there, I tried both and found the one that is attached to the heat gauge. Hooked that back up. then disconnected the other one.

This evening it would not start and idle unless I used the accelerator . Then it would die if I let off. I did manage to get it to idle somewhat after it warmed up on a 4 mile drive(dying at every stop). I had some work to do at a clients home and it took about an hour. (car never got above 85C temp wise on the drive.) It sit for an hour and I restrated it. it wanted to die but didn't. The idle now was at 1000 or more. I drove back to town and all was fine, so I stopped into the loacl Jack in the box to grab some Iced Tea and it idled fine in line....until I was infront of the pickup window in park it died with no warning. Restarted hard, but I could keep it running. but it proceeded to die at 2 of the four stops between there and my place, the last two stops it didn't die and didn't die when I slowed to turn into my street or the driveway. Pulled up to the house and it died.

Still chasing this idle problem, and It appears to be related to the Water Temp. as the aux fan will kick in if over 85C and then the car revs up to between 1500-2000 then will drop back, then up and back , up and back.
then up and back to 1000, then if it drops it dies.

I am getting a bit weary. This is my first MB and it has sit mostly for the last 4 years.

I hope to find non resistor plugs tomorrow. I know that new plugs will help the car, if not the idle problem.
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  #4  
Old 09-28-2007, 01:46 AM
slk230red's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 818
Just curious Charlies84380se,

At operating temperature, what happens to your idle if you unplug the connector at the Idle Control Valve?

Also, check your fuel pressure regulator...does it have a rubber vacuum hose connected at one end? Mine was cracked and I was able to replace the short rubber vacuum hose that fits into the housing.

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1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

Last edited by slk230red; 09-28-2007 at 01:52 AM.
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