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  #16  
Old 09-29-2007, 03:05 PM
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Order some parts like that vac hose on line as long as MB doesn't have it
sometimes its alot cheaper sometimes not much

Tranny thing is scary
Don't know about that...

Hope its nothing serious...



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  #17  
Old 09-29-2007, 03:32 PM
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Me tooooo! on the tranny thing. I'll check the level this afternoon. I'm waiting on the car to cool off some before I change out the plugs.
The wiper refill at MB was only $4.00 and change, so you must be getting a pair from German Star. Cool.
Yep I'll be looking for that vacuum hose online this afternoon while the car cools down.

Ya never know what to expect from these old cars that have set awhile. It may be as simple as a Modulator valve needing changed. Or just the fluid and filter changed(that's what I suspect, a piece of crud in a ball valve in the tranny.
Scared the bejeebers out of me at the time though!
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  #18  
Old 09-29-2007, 04:18 PM
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CS,
If it starts right up cold, the cold start valve is likely good. When it snorts the extra fuel in the chamber it cant help but start right up. After the computer registers a warm or hot engine, the cold start valve is taken out of operation to avoid a too rich mixture.

If you icvis only $100 I am jeolous, mine for a 190E is about $200 to $240 for OEM new
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1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red
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  #19  
Old 09-29-2007, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crhenkel View Post
CS,
If it starts right up cold, the cold start valve is likely good. When it snorts the extra fuel in the chamber it cant help but start right up. After the computer registers a warm or hot engine, the cold start valve is taken out of operation to avoid a too rich mixture.

If you icvis only $100 I am jeolous, mine for a 190E is about $200 to $240 for OEM new
Don't feel jealous
I just looked it up and it may not be OEM
Says retails for $700
there price $213

must have though of anotherpart

Trouble w my car is I can't look up 83 500 sec
I have to either do 83 380 sec or 84 500 sec
then there is the chance the part won't be right
So I can't gamble w $200 parts

part says for 3.8/5.0
so I might look up 83 380 & see if part is same

Well, ICV is same on 2 years so guess thats it


http://www.germanimportedparts.com/Order/PartDescription.aspx?PartNumber=000-141-1225&linecode=141

Ignition wires is a different thing

Guess I;ll have to find it & cllean it but its hiding



I got the tecrron conc
walked to the corner to get it
hate to fuss with that stuff at the pump
So now I have the dilemna
got about 3/4 tank & this stuff treats 20 galx
So I got to figure out qnty of techron conc..
or dump it all in & leave it concentrated or top it off with a few gal.

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Last edited by CamelotShadow; 09-29-2007 at 05:22 PM.
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  #20  
Old 09-29-2007, 07:41 PM
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Whew! The tranny was way low...Bad Charlie, BAB,Bad Charlie....I should have checked it before driving down to Valencia. Took the spark plugs out and replaced them with the correct ones, the old ones were Bosch, but have the numbers and letters RO 836. I don't know what this translates too. The old ones are not that bad, all have the nice brownish white color. but the sharp corners of the electrodes are now rounded and the gap was too big.

While I had the Air cleaner off, I did the carbcleaner trick on all the vacuum connections I could see and no increase in rpm's. noticed that some had newer rubber conn. than others so some have been replaced.

Maybe my cold start valve is bad, because it'll never start and stay running with just the key. However this morning it was cool out and it did start and stay running, so maybe it works. ??? I'm getting weary chasing this stalling out and not starting.

It ran pretty good today going down the mountain.

I have an OPR coming this week.
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  #21  
Old 09-29-2007, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crhenkel View Post
CS,
Have you added any fuel to the cars tank yet, you dont seem to drive it much?
I think something you really need to do is drive that tank empty and then fill up and add a bottle of Techron synthetic fuel system cleaner to the tank and drive it some more. I know you talk about not dirveing much and not getting out and being afraid it will leave you on the raod. Guess what, any one of our cars can leave us on the road. Get it out and drive it, anywhere. Just drive it, for a while. A long while and let it eat that tank of gas. Maybe even put a fuel system cleaner in now and drive it. By the expensive fuel system cleaner too, synthetic is nice, MB likes Techron if you can find it. Get a good drive and put a new tank of gas in and more cleaner with the fuel. Not recommended all that often but this car has sat for a time and it needs the carbon and gum cleaned out of it, WHo knows, the high idle issue may just go away if you have something sticking and it gets cleaned out. It has happened lots of times before...
X2 I doubt I could have said it better myself.

The Techron is ALREADY in the Chevron Premium (Supreme) gas that is for sale down the block from you at the station.

It is the only gas I have ever used for almost 70,000 miles of driving in the SEC and in that time I have NEVER had problems with the injectors or drivability. Never, and as I said, I only changed the injectors out at 100,000 miles for reasons of preventative maintenance.

Let's try this another way - "preventative maintenance" on the SEC is actually done by driving these cars, the longer and faster the better!

I tell you, mine sat around a lot this summer, but after a fast trip and back to San Francisco, it never ran better. No issues whatsoever.

I think your car desparately needs some drive time. You should go out with it tomorrow if you can, perhaps to Newport Beach Fashion Island and look around, maybe somewhere nice for lunch.

The rain blasted us a lot here last night, but now things are clean and sunny. Just beautiful. I can't speak to the issue of self confidence too much in driving, but I'd guess the car would be very confidence inspiring once you get comfortable in it. I never found Los Angeles traffic THAT unforgiving. You and the car should make a good team. After awhile you will REALLY like driving it on the highway. For these cars, nothing is better than highway driving. A trip out to Las Vegas or up the Los Angeles crest highway would be great; that car would be great going up the grapevine through Castiac up to Santa Clarita, for instance, to start.

It sounds the car is really roadable at this point. You have done a good job, but do the car a favor by exercising it. Once you get it on the highway and into a groove, you will really like it. Los Angeles is really designed for the car, the entire culture is catered to it
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  #22  
Old 09-29-2007, 10:21 PM
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Put the fuel addative in full bottle and have it a little stronger than it would have been, no harm. None at all.
If you have part number you need to check after you find them on line, you or I can look them up on the EPC online program with your exact VIN and car type from Europe and confirm that it is the part you need since you have to lok them up with a diff car and year. The Online parts system can confirm that the parts are correct, it does not give MBs current price, but it gives everything else, including how many of the part is used throughout the entire car. So for say the vac elbows, it shows how many you need.
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1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red
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  #23  
Old 09-29-2007, 10:25 PM
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Charlie, Bad Boy,
You are not alone though, I had a similar issue and I had just changed pan, gasket, and filter in the tranny, so I just swore the fluid was fine, two weeks later the tranny was acting up like super way bad. I was so concerned, started calling tranny shops to book, everything, then it got so bad, i finally stopped at a truck stop and checkd the fluid, it was like almost non existant! I has the gasket tear along the pan and it was leaking out under pressure like a sieve! New gasket and fluid and all was back to normal, I felt like a fool, You jast have to be logical and methodical. Go by steps and logic and you can track any car issue. Good luck
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1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red
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  #24  
Old 09-29-2007, 10:43 PM
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Yep I ALWAYS check the tranny on a new old car when I first get them, but I didn't this time. I bet I check it a couple times in the next couple days.......just to see if it is leaking.
However there are no spots or stains on the driveway where I park it.
Incidentally, My plug wires and ends are in great shape, no cracks or anything. and the plug metal covers are great too. I kept the old plugs...just in case.

Reminds me of a trip across the country once in a 1964 restored VW Karman Cabriolet (vw Convert.) I had everything I needed if something quit on the trip. I had an electric fuel pump on it and a spare OEM fuel pump. Sure enough on the way back, I had a fuel pump problem. 20 minutes later I was on the road with the OEM fuel pump. Later learned that the only thing wrong with the electric one was it lost it's ground. Point being is I was prepared.
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  #25  
Old 09-29-2007, 11:39 PM
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techron/drive...Wundabar

I estimated I had 14 15 gal as it was a bit higher than a half tank
So I added the 20 oz bottle & pumped in 5.2 gal in to mix it up.

I thought wo pumping gas it might sort of sit on the top.

Car started right up in garage & it was last ran 4 days ago.

Started up at pump to & it was close to operating temp by time I found a pump I liked & manuered it right
darn gas cap is on pass sidemakes it harder

Then we went to Homedepot to get screws to mount the plates
got stainless took a while to pic out the right sizes
good thing I had the brackets w me..


Started right up but temp had cooled to about 30
yet last week before my work it didn't start right up at that temp
so its better

Also started w a lower idle
1000
not the 1200 to 1500 of the past
So thats better

Also no lumpiness at stop lights now



Runs almost perfect

I did hit bottom on the darn garage hump
must have got the angle not right
I do hope that didn't loosen my muffler pipes



only wierd thing was on the way home at a stop or two
I felt a shudder under my seat area
wonder what that was
hope not he muffler pipe

It really worried me
but was only 1 or 2 times

Looked for the ICV again
couldn;t see anything

OOoh welll
maybe I don't need to find it
it seems to be running OK...

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Last edited by CamelotShadow; 09-29-2007 at 11:50 PM.
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  #26  
Old 09-30-2007, 12:36 AM
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I would ignore the ICV for a while and drive it a couple more times to let the cleaner do its job. If it doesnt act up its fine. Some days it just doesnt start first time, it a machine. Also, 1000 rpm at start up is actualy just fine, it could settle down to 850-950 in neutral and it would be about perfect. really anything from 850 to 1000 is fine as long as it is a good steady idle and it is not going up and down a lot and not trying to fight to run. I know the manual has a specific range of idel speed, probably 850-950. First, the tach is not a guarantee that it is correct, second, if the car is running well and is driving well, + or - 100 or so rpm is not going to ruin anything. I bet in drive it settles down to the recommended idle doesnt it? around 900? Its fine.
Drive it some more and she will be fine.
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1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red
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  #27  
Old 09-30-2007, 12:53 AM
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Idles 650 in drive
Idles great in drive!!!!
alwasy ided that in drive
that's about right & my reading the tach could be 700 too
Its right where it should be in drive

Label on engine says 650 to 750 I think
can't recall but 650 is fine

OOOh spark plugs listed were bosch W7D
not W8D I've seen inplaces
thats hotter isn't it?


I hope it likes the NKG plugs
I got them as they were non resistor
got the last 9 for $16 so its not that much
I got the extra plug as you never know you could have aproblem w one

Yeah, shes feeeling better



Quote:
Originally Posted by crhenkel View Post
I would ignore the ICV for a while and drive it a couple more times to let the cleaner do its job. If it doesnt act up its fine. Some days it just doesnt start first time, it a machine. Also, 1000 rpm at start up is actualy just fine, it could settle down to 850-950 in neutral and it would be about perfect. really anything from 850 to 1000 is fine as long as it is a good steady idle and it is not going up and down a lot and not trying to fight to run. I know the manual has a specific range of idel speed, probably 850-950. First, the tach is not a guarantee that it is correct, second, if the car is running well and is driving well, + or - 100 or so rpm is not going to ruin anything. I bet in drive it settles down to the recommended idle doesnt it? around 900? Its fine.
Drive it some more and she will be fine.
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Last edited by CamelotShadow; 09-30-2007 at 12:59 AM.
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  #28  
Old 09-30-2007, 01:52 AM
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I am quite sure that plugs, wires cap and rotor will make her behave like a dream, you would be surprised at how some cars are transformed with the new ignition parts. Just you wait to see how she runs after the new plugs. I have faith it will transform her even more to your liking
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1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red
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  #29  
Old 09-30-2007, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by crhenkel View Post
I am quite sure that plugs, wires cap and rotor will make her behave like a dream, you would be surprised at how some cars are transformed with the new ignition parts. Just you wait to see how she runs after the new plugs. I have faith it will transform her even more to your liking

Wow...

Its really almost perfect now
No trouble running
it drives
smooth strong


Just want to help bring it back to life

Really is a great car!
Soon we will both see the world
Can't wait to take it ot the beach...


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