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-   -   $200 1986 300E, My first MB... BUT.. (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/201075-%24200-1986-300e-my-first-mb-but.html)

Mars700 09-30-2007 02:52 AM

$200 1986 300E, My first MB... BUT..
 
This is from my other post:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mars700 (Post 1628876)
But I'm about to get a mint 1986 300E with this same issue. The care seems new, New paint and many new parts. The car is $600. Its driven all the time. 169,000 miles..

This situation with the oil in the water is the only thing. Is this a definite head gasket situation?

Any one in the NYC metro area know the going rate for this job?

After much debate I got the car for $200 It has an all new breaking system. Pads, rotors, master cylinder all new lines i think even the ABS is new. 4 new tires. New Battery, New wires. Full tune up. Work in the $2000+ range has been done. But the head gasket was the one that killed it for the previous owner.

I have seen posts and topics about the head gasket issue, just a few questions tho. How long can i drive it like this. I understand I'm looking at a $1000 job, is that right?

Should i go to an MB dealer to do the job? Im i better off looking for a local guy? Here on Long Island there are many people who specialize in European cars.

Im a big RWD Volvo guy, i have 5 of them. But i don't know if I'm up to task on doing a head gasket.

Mars700 09-30-2007 03:03 AM

Also, the car was just repainted, the only issue with the interior is the drives side door panel is a mess. Arm rest falling off and stuff. The rest is 100% mint.

bpaz_ph 09-30-2007 08:41 AM

If the oil w/ water turns to milk shake best not to drive it since the mix will start foaming and overheat your engine. If the coolant stays clear w/ oil just coating the reservoir you still have time till it start turning to milk shake.

nhdoc 09-30-2007 09:12 AM

It's best to find a good indy to do the head gasket. If you bring it to a dealer you will be looking at probably spending $2000-$3000 or more before you're done because they will want to rebuild the head too, which is actually a good idea.

Fact is if you are pulling the head it is probably a good time to have it rebuilt which will add another $700-$1200 to the job but will prevent other problems which would require pulling the head again to repair.

This is why the car was only $200 and why most people who would buy it would do the work themselves. You will land up spending more than the car is worth getting it running again if you pay someone to do the work correctly and do what should be done.

slk230red 09-30-2007 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mars700 (Post 1633269)
This is from my other post:



After much debate I got the car for $200 It has an all new breaking system. Pads, rotors, master cylinder all new lines i think even the ABS is new. 4 new tires. New Battery, New wires. Full tune up. Work in the $2000+ range has been done. But the head gasket was the one that killed it for the previous owner.

I have seen posts and topics about the head gasket issue, just a few questions tho. How long can i drive it like this. I understand I'm looking at a $1000 job, is that right?

Should i go to an MB dealer to do the job? Im i better off looking for a local guy? Here on Long Island there are many people who specialize in European cars.

Im a big RWD Volvo guy, i have 5 of them. But i don't know if I'm up to task on doing a head gasket.

After just doing my own head gasket repair on my '93 190E 2.3, I don't think you can get it done for $1,000. I can guarantee you that there will be other issues as the work is being done. I think a more realistic price is more like $2,000 plus. And, for the amount of work involved and the price of quality parts, $2,000 is not bad, considering that it will take a lot more parts than just a head gasket to do it right, not to mention the machine shop work. I had my head rebuilt for $180, valve job, valve guide seals, and resurfacing.

It doesn't matter if you are a RWD Volvo guy, or a RWD Mercedes guy, a head is a head. I did my own repair because I don't like other people messing with my stuff...that's why I have tools and a big garage. Personally, I wouldn't drive the car another mile, jump in there and start removing the head, take your time, and replace everything that is needed as you go along. Take extra time flushing the block, radiator, and heater core, before replacing all of the radiator and heater hoses.

Tools, space to do the work, a good manual, common sense, and physical ability = DIY.

Just my opinion...good luck, sounds like you got a great deal on the car.

Dave

sbourg 09-30-2007 12:28 PM

Most important to completely flush the cooling system - use a detergent like Tide + water. Any oil remnant in the cooling system will rapidly deteriorate the hoses, which should all be replaced after gasket replacement & enough flushes that no more brown scum appears the next day.

Steve


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