You don't get "backlash" with manual gears either if you know how to drive a manual correctly.

Have great day,

Link for body tag info:
http://home.concepts.nl/~vlimmere/bodytag.htm

717430 is for manual transmission, you can verify with a vin lookup on the Mercedes-Benz Club Russia website.

http://www.mbclub.ru/mb/vin/?lng=eng

This site will provide the info you are looking for and more, make sure you convert the vin and click on the full version box:

e.g. 300E = 1240301 substitute characters 4 thru 10 and replace 999999 with your vin's last six numbers (sequence#)
WDBEA30D8GA999999 = WDB1240301A999999

got a 1986 300e manual anto get it im rebuilding the head to get it back to fresh

And a 5-year old thread is revived! And I clicked on it. And now I'm adding to it.

I have two: 1985 2.3-16v 5-speed and the LeMons 300E 5-speed (okay, 1/2 owner)

Well this is the first I have seen of this page and I have had my 300E 5 speed for over 4 years now. I bought mine with an engine in trouble, it had pulled a whole rocker assembly loose and a ruined cam shaft. It still ran good, I drove it from Holland, MI to the northside of Indy on 5 cylinders, and it still had lots of power. But instead of repairing the engine, I bought a used 89 M103 from John Hef, forum member and Mercedes mechanic, who had a customer who had the engine and other parts and had made a decision to sell them. So I got the engine on that deal and it included a like new exhaust system. I installed that engine with much help from Bajaman, who is now living and working in Switzerland. I really miss that good friend a lot, and I do hear from him occasionally. Anyway, it is an all black with beautiful paint, all original so far as I can tell. Black leather interior is a bit worn, never was glamorous and the years seem to have dried it up a bit. I have enjoyed the car very much, great driver, very quick, uses no oil, drips no oil. It does need a few small things and now that the 300D switch is done and running good I will have to devote more time to catch up on a few small items that need attention. I want to get into the sunroof. I was told by the PO who sat on the car for 8 years and kept it in storage that it does not work correctly. AC is still on R12 and does not work and that is OK with me. I don't use the car much in summer and don't want to spend money on AC on these old cars. My Indy thinks it would work as it does hold a good vacuum, but I am leaving it alone - one car with AC here is all we need. Biggest problem right now is that the drivers side rear door won't open. I was taking the interior trim off last summer, got off on another job, and when I went back to the door job some days later the lock button wire had fallen into the door and I have not been able to retrieve it. I am a little heavy on cars now and I might just put this jewel on the market, maybe this fall. I would keep it if I had room inside, but can't find room in the garage, though it is a three car garage. But we don't have a basement so storage is a problem. But it is a beautiful car and it would break my heart to sell it, so I don't know. Maybe I can find room in the garage, we will just have to see. It is just too nice to let out in the weather, and so is the Jaguar and so is the 240D. And being practical, we need the Jaguar for the AC and I think the 240D with the 617 and 4 speed is much more a servicable car for me. I run 50 miles a day for my school bus driving job and a car that will go at all times and in all weather is a must. The Jaguar is AWD and it looks like it takes the salt and slush pretty good, so I will use that when road conditions are bad because I want to keep both the Mercedes totally out of that slush. Right now it is hotter then blazes in central Indiana. Like 95 F and 90% humidity and a no work day for an old gezzer like me. But we always get a great fall here and really it is just around the corner. School starts on August 17, just a little over a month from now. Time goes fun when you are having fun!

Will I be waisting my time with a e320 coupe 5 speed conversion
 

I bought a 300e's 5 speed, an original 300e 5 speed. Hearing that u can take 2 gear to 60 mph makes me uneasy about swapping it into my 1995 e320 coupe. I heard that the tranny to have is the getrag. But then I have heard the standard 300e 5 speeds work just fine.

From the posts, it seems I will never get my car out of 3rd gear if I want to do the speed limit of California's 65 mph.

Please post and send serious responses to my e-mail as well. thanks

5-speed conversion completed
 

Coverted my 1988 300E to a 5-speed about 8 months ago and have been driving it everyday. I got some great tips from this forum along the way. Got the trans from the pick n pull out of a 190E 2.6. I had a drive shaft made (lengthend the front section) and modified my existing crossmember. The pedals and shifter from the 190E bolted right in. I did have to lengthen two of the shift rods a bit.
Overall it was a fairly easy conversion that took about 10 hrs and got to replace the main seal whie I was at it. The overdrive is great, car is faster, gets better mileage and most importantly its fun to drive now!

a dealer in Richmond, VA has one for sale, ebay classified item 170714643693. Looks a bit beat, but I'd go look if I were close.

My 1986 300E 5-Speed Manual
 

New member long time lurker, I've been driving my 1986 300E with it's 5-speed manual transmission for a little more than 6 years and +90K and I love everything about it! The only thing I would offer is that I did rebuild the shifter and that really tightened it up, it had a "mushy" sort of feel. Great driving cars, shame they don't make anything comparable today.

I just purchased a 1988 300E 5 speed. blk / blk MB tex. 230K. Needs complete suspension rebuild and exhaust. Fun and very cool even with its flaws.

I am passing along this message from someone I know nothing about but since I have this rattle in two of my three 5 spd 123s, I thought I would post it. A couple years ago when I saw this post I switched from Red Line MTL to Mobil One 5W /30. Now I only hear the rattle on start up and it goes away when I rev the engine. I am curious if any other five speed Getrag owners have experienced this.

"I just got this email in response to an inquiry that I sent to "Metric Motors" about working on

transmissions. I honestly can't remember how I found them. But anyway, this sounds like a pretty

definitive answer:

My note to them was as follows:

"I understand that you specialize in BMW, but hope you might have information on this problem. I

have a Euro-market Mercedes 300d, 5 cyl diesel, natural aspirated, with 5 speed Getrag 00

transmission. Transmission works fine, but makes an irritating clanking rattle at idle WITH THE

CLUTCH ENGAGED. I seem to recall reading that Porsche 944\'s had a problem like this with a

Getrag 5-speed.

Questions:

1) Are you familiar with this transmission? (I don\'t have a model number, but could get one.) Is this

a familiar problem?

2) Can you get parts for Getrags of this age?

3) Would you be willing to repair it? I live in Maine, but it\'s light enough to ship.

4) If the answer is \"no\" to #3, can you recommend a shop (hopefully east coast) that is familiar

with these.

Thanks very much."

Their response:

"Hello SEa,

What you are describing is a Reverse Idler Gear - also know as an Idler Gear or Auxiliary Gear.

It's a common problem with Getrag Transmission. Among BMWs, the 260, 240 and 280 and 250

all share this same problem. From the factory, there is a shaft in the Tranny, that supports the

Reverse Idler Gear and it is NOT shimmed properly against the case (too much clearance.)

Somewhere after 125,000 to 150,000 miles and/or without regular oil changes, the rattle develops.

To fix it (in a BMWanyway), the entire transmission must be disassembled and reshimmed. Your

transmission won't break or prevent you from getting home but it is annoying.

All that said, we do occasionally receive inquiries like yours - about working on Getrags for other

car models.

Sadly, it is not that simple. Our expertise is only with BMWs so we won't be able to do the repair

for you.

Also, we really don't know of a shop that can."

I'm toying with selling the 87 5 spd :( as with the addition of the 2001 6 spd manual (an absolute blast to drive) there are too many cars. Price will be about $2500 as it does need minor attention. Pictures soon along details.

Hey folks! Just found this thread via Google search.

I've been happy as a clam with my '87 250D (naturally aspirated) 5-speed since I bought it last winter.

I recently came home from an extended work trip, during which time the season had turned.. And my, did the transmission change characteristics due to the cold. Engaging 2nd from 3rd is nearly impossible compared to what it was like this summer, and after a long drive I have protracted pains in my arm from trying to shove and lure the lever into place.

My first instinct is to change the oil as I have no idea when it was changed, nor what kind of oil is on it. It's probably never been changed, and it's done nearly 400,000 miles, so about time..

That brings about its own issues as I have no idea what oil is supposed to go on it. Every source seems to recommend 'regular ATF', anyone else got more input?

Googling led me to also consider changing the linkage bushings, as this would apparently also help. It is sort of sloppy. I didn't react when I got the car as I was used to my previous car, a crappy Subaru with the worst manual transmission in history. It was like a dream compared to that one.

Any further tips? (beyond rebuilding the entire transmission as recommended a couple posts above mine? :P)

Congratulations on your new tranny. If you have no idea what kind of oil is in there, that would be a good place to start as you can also check the shift rod bushings on both ends while your under there. Be sure and undo the fill plug (passenger side) first just in case you cant get it lose after draining the oil. I use a light weight synthetic motor oil, Mobil 5W20, in my trannys which works well. I have used Amsoil, and Red Line but The Mobil One synthetic has worked out the best IMO. If you should find 90W in there, (it stinks, you cant miss it) fill with a cheap ATF, drive for a while to flush things out. then put in the good stuff, its expansive but you only need a couple qts and you'll have a little left over. Not going into gear well, could easily be the shift bushings but its important not have 90W in there.

I just found something called Motorcraft XT-M5-QS, It's a Ford factory fill and used in their heavy duty truck manual transmissions (so it's meant to take a beating).

Now, I say truck, and you think of a heavy, viscous oil unsuited for regular cars. This oil is all the rave on the Mazda forums - guys who drive MX5s, RX8s and the like, both on the street and track. Everyone is reporting that previously sluggish and slow manuals were like a new transmission after filling this oil.

I don't know about you guys, but I'm definitely going to head over to my local Ford dealer and see if they don't have this fluid for sale.. It's apparently expensive, but I only need 2 liters (1.5, but, you know, nothing's sold in 1.5 increments :p), so who cares.