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  #16  
Old 11-01-2007, 06:19 AM
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G-Benz, please note that our 1992 300CE with ASR has rear brake pad wear indicators.
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  #17  
Old 11-01-2007, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferdman View Post
G-Benz, please note that our 1992 300CE with ASR has rear brake pad wear indicators.
My bad...I needed to specify the "sedan" versions. The 300CE does indeed have rear sensors...
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  #18  
Old 02-04-2008, 09:06 AM
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How hard is the replacement of the front rotors on a W124 model? My rotors are warped, and the pads need replacing also.
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2008, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by AlanW124 View Post
How hard is the replacement of the front rotors on a W124 model? My rotors are warped, and the pads need replacing also.
If you know your way around tools and have some experience in DIY job, the front rotors and pads are an easy task. Pretty straight forward and no special tools needed. I would recommend getting pads similar to or actually OEM. Textar are good, some of the others just make more issues or dust.
If you are ordering parts, go ahead and get new rotor set bolts ( they hold the rotors in place on the hub during assembly)

Consider swapping your front brake lines to braided stainless steel if they are looking like they need replacement, you will stop faster, gain the security of the stronger lines and the expansion of the lines is nil so you dont have any "mushing" feeling.
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  #20  
Old 02-04-2008, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by crhenkel View Post
Consider swapping your front brake lines to braided stainless steel if they are looking like they need replacement, you will stop faster, gain the security of the stronger lines and the expansion of the lines is nil so you dont have any "mushing" feeling.
There was a thread here some time ago refuting the use of stainless steel lines on these cars...but my reason for posting is that a first-time DIY'er probably won't want to venture into having to bleed brakes along with the pad and rotor replacement.

But as others said, rotor replacement is a pretty simple task. If the caliper mount bolts haven't ever been removed, they will be stubborn...after that, future brake sevicing should be pretty easy.
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  #21  
Old 02-04-2008, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by G-Benz View Post
There was a thread here some time ago refuting the use of stainless steel lines on these cars...but my reason for posting is that a first-time DIY'er probably won't want to venture into having to bleed brakes along with the pad and rotor replacement.
Fair enough....I feel the stainless lines helped my vehicles but to each his own, but your point on a novice bleeding brake lines is valid. If you dont know how to bleed the brake lines of air properly, dont open the lines or replace them. The brake job with caliper can be done easily without opening any of the brake lines, leave the brake hose connected to the caliper and move it to the side of the rotor and secure it ( coat hangers work well. Do the pad work with the caliper still connected to the hose. if you dont open any brake lines, bleeding the brakes is not necessary.
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  #22  
Old 02-04-2008, 12:15 PM
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The brake pad light will come on when the sensor is shorted. Check the pads to confirm. You have plenty of pad left, giving you time to get all the parts together. If you ignore the light, you will eventually burn thru the sensor and the light may go out. Next stop will be whats left of your brake pad against the rotor.

My 1991 300CE only has sensors on the front pads.

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  #23  
Old 02-04-2008, 12:47 PM
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I'd say you have 3-5k left...but i wouldn't put off the job...

we just did the 300e...and the passenger side was worn slightly more than the drivers....
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