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#1
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Hi,
This is my first time posting here (I frequent the Audiworld Forum mostly) but I have some question regarding a 1994 S600. Lately, the car has had some difficulty with the locking mechanism in the passenger rear door. It seems like the heat is refraining it from moving down, preventing the car from locking. Is there a quick fix for this (besides keeping the car cool)? Also, the reading lights in the front have gone out. I'd hate to have to bring it to the dealer to fix something so minor. Is it easy to get the whole cover off to replace the bulbs? Lastly (for now) in the driver's side rear seat adjustment buttons, the backlight that outlines the seat button is also out. How can this be replaced? Do I have to take apart the whole door? Thanks for all your help! |
#2
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As for the rear door lock, they work on a vaccum. you might have avacuum leak on that door. you will probably have to pull the panel, unless it is just something sticky in the lock, in which case you will probably need to pull the panel anyway. be carefull, and get a panel popping tool.
As for the Map lights, the cover should pop out some how. for the seat switch lights, you can probably do it without removing the panel, but I am not sure on this either. It is a place to start though, check for an escaping air sound when you lock and unlock the car on that door. I'm not a tech, but I hope that helps you find a place to start. Alon
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'92 300CE - Sold 2004 C240 - 744 - C7 Wheels - Android Radio 2002 C320 - 816 - Sport Wagon |
#3
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I don't hear any vacuum leaks when the car is locking...
Lately, it's been working sort of okay, but since it's been unreliable, I still have to check if it's locked which is a big pain. Basically, you can hear the locking mechanism trying to lock it and you can see the actual lock struggling to move down, but sometimes it won't go. I'm not sure if there's a vacuum leak because if there is, it should affect all of the doors since it should be all connected to the same motor, right? At least I think that's how it is in my Audi. Anyhow, I'll definitely keep my ears open for a hissing sound to see if it's leaking air.
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#4
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No, every lock has it's own vacuum line which work independently, all via the vacuum pump.
I had an air leak in my driver's side rear door and I could hear air hissing. It turned out to be the black rubbery thing (I think the actuator?). Yes, definitly listen for a hissing sound when it's struggling. But you have thick door panels and might not hear it as easy... more than likely you're going to need to take the door panel off anyway though... it's not that difficult. Keep us posted.
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2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver) Previous: 1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles 2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!) 1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI) 03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's) 2006 C230k (Dad's) 1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's) 2000 C230k Sport sedans 2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's) 1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!) |
#5
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The only easy job on your hand is changing the reading lamps.
The problem with the door lock definitely requires removing the door panel, as well as for changing the stupid light bulb for the seat outline switch. This is something that has to be done very carefully, since your car car has heavy door panels with lots of wires attached to them. My old '81 300TD had the same problem on a rear door and it turned out to be the mechanism that moves the lock up an down (it leaked). No problems on the lines itself. A. Rosich S320, 1998 E320T, 1995 |
#6
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Okay, here's an update with some more questions...
Okay, I kept my ears open for the leaking air sound. I didn't hear any air leaking, but more of a whirring sound like the motor on that specific door is still trying to get the lock down even after it's already locked (it's been locking lately since the weather has been cooler). It's not the normal whirring that goes on after you close the door you usually hear coming from the driver's side rear area. It comes directly from the pass. rear door and probably lasts for about 5 seconds. Something is definitely wrong with it.
Now, for my question: How hard is it to take off the interior door panel? I want to take the driver's side one off anyway to replace that light anyway, so are there directions for this? Thanks guys, I really appreciate this. |
#7
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I am not an expert tech on the matter, so I would not try to direct you on how to take off the door panel. I do know you need an special tool and good knowledge. Just as an example:
The authorized M.B. dealer took off the driver's door panel of a '98 CL500 of a friend of mine to change the light bulb of the seat switch. Upon mounting the door panel back, they broke the double-pane glass of the door. A simple $0.40 light bulb ended up costing them more than $2,000 to replace the door window. Just be carefull... A. Rosich S320, 1998 E320T 1995 |
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