One of my rear axle shaft boots on my '85 300 TDT is split and oil is leaking out. I have been told that the boot alone can't be replaced, I need to replace the whole half-shaft. Since it just started leaking and the CV joint inside is still OK do you have any ideas on how to avoid replacing the whole shaft? I've thought of rigging and old inner tube and sealing it with a tube repair kit but I'm afraid the centrifugal force will be too much for it. Any ideas? Thanks.

My boots are cracked but not completely through yet...here the options I have come up with.

1. Order the "evil" split boot from Cosmos International at 1-800-221-2668 at about $20 bucks, and install. Hopefully it will work ok, and last awhile.

2. Order two axles from advanced auto for about $110 USD each and change them both at once, yourself.

3. And I actually thought of the same temp fix you seem to be wondering about. I figure I'd go to walmart, buy the largest diameter bicycle intertube and some type of glue, cut the old boot off, overwrap it twice, and cable tie and glue it together. What do you think?

Joe

PS You might want to wrap the boot with plastic wrap and tape until you figure what to do, if you have to drive the car.

Your fix idea sounds much like mine. If you ultimately take that route I'd wrap the inner tube around in a direction counter to the direction of the shaft rotation, that way it has a natural tendancy to "spin" the oil back toward the center and not let it collect in the overlap. My concern is getting the made up "boot" to taper properly so I don't get a bunched up end that I can't seal properly. The split boot may ultimately be better.

axle shaft boot
 

Split boots do not work.Wraps will not work either.As for the rebuilt axle from advance,I have experienced mixed results as far as quality is concerned.What I would suggest is trying to find a MIGHTY dealer and buy a universal boot and cone.You remove your axle shaft turn boot inside out place cone over axle and stretch boot over the cone using lemon pledge as a lube.The boot will pull hard so find the biggest guy you know to help.It's hard to imagine the small end of the boot will stretch that much,but it will.It's just like giving birth.I have also used a small plastic funnel with rim cut off and no edges but cone works better.MIGHTY is a distributor of brake parts and boots and most likely can be found on the internet.Make sure you clean your axle well before you apply boot,so you don't drag dirt into your joint.

Big Dave,

I have to try your method next time to see if it works. Thank you for sharing. Do you think the OE boot kit, 126-350-03-37, (boot, grease, and clamps only, no metal casing) can be installed using your method?

J.C. Whitney is selling a universal boot for $10. Please look at the link. Can it work with your method?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/SearchCatContainer.jhtml;$sessionid$ZIWEDVYAAAXVLWBBLJTCFE4YEFNGMIV0?_requestid=107535

Thank you

David

The o.e.m. boot may be too stiff to slip over cone.Most universal boots should be ok.You will still need a mighty cone or a very smooth funnel with rim cut off.Eat your wheaties though they go on hard.Make sure you don't get pledge on edge of boot or you will lose your grip.

I have been putting boots on MB axles for years (about 20). All in takes is the proper tools (I think they were about $1500 when I bought them 20 years ago). The most important piece nas gotten cheaper through the years.

The problem is that I charge $102 labor for cutting one can disassembling the C/V joint, replacing two boots and recrimpimg the one can. It will require opening at least one can to get to the C/V for removal. (the V8 inner can can not be recrimped so the boots are done through the outer C/V; which is the same) This amount is almost more than the cheap axle places just for the labor so we don't do them much anymore.

One option I haven't seen mentioned is a used axleshaft. I had the boot split on my old 123 after a loose fuel line soaked it with diesel - rubber and petroleum products don't miss.

I purchased a used axle from AAA Small Car World over in Ft. Worth. Don't recall the exact price, but it was about 50 bucks. That was long enough ago that I cannot even remember the year I did the work, and it's still in there, still working. I'm thinking 1995 or 1996. In fact, my friend that purchased the car is staying at my place for a bit, maybe I'll crawl under the old 300D and see how it's doing. (Not likely in this Texas heat!)

I understand the boot crimp tool makes a good doorstop.

- Jim