300E '88.
This is why I try and do brakes and things myself. Last time my front brakes were done by a mech he (or one of his techs) broke the rotor set screw. Noticed it today as I was replacing the rotor. The shaft is still inside the hole on the hub. I managed to drill most of it out. But I think I need something that can force its way in there. The set screw is a soft metal and like is said I drilled most of it out without compromising the thread. Do they sell anything like that in Sears, something that will force its way into the hole? Anybody know the thread size?

If not, is the set screw absolutely necessary? Obviously I haven't been driving with one on my passenger rotor since the last brake job.

Thanks.

I broke mine 2yrs ago.. I tried to replace it... but ended up breaking the screw out off in the hole.. so i just left it. The only thing I was worried about was maybe it not being balanced.. but other then that..

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Peter L. House
1998 Sport E430
Azure Blue
110,000k Miles

1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Salon
V8 Bucket Seats
Factory Moon Roof

"Extractor" by Craftsman, Black & Decker, etc. Chek in the Parts 4 Sale section. Someone will probably have a used screw for you.
Bob

Thanks guys.
Thanks Bob I checked at Sears and they do have those extractor kits. I'll check the for sale section

I broke one too a couple of years ago when replacing my rotors. Other than making things a little more difficult when replacing the rotor after removing the caliper, it won't hurt if you leave things be.

Fortunately, in my case, there was enough of the threaded area exposed to grab it with pliers and extract the broken portion out.

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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car

I see no purpose in that screw.

I left it be

Those screws are basically for convenience only. They hold the disk on when you remove the caliper, etc. BMW uses the same. It is fine to run without them, but nice to have.

If you do use them, use some anti-seize compound on them, and no need to crank them in tight. Just snug. It also helps to wire brush the hub and smear a bit of anti-seize on the mating surfaces between the hub and disk, to prevent the disk from getting "rust welded" to the hub.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 248K

Janamarie,

Just do yourself a favor and call Phil at the Buy Parts link, give him the vehicle type and VIN and he'll get you a set of quality disks quickly and at a competitive price.

I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to when you say "clearance" but a 1 mm difference between the caliper and the disk from side to side is not worth worrying about I think. More important is the thickness of the pads, and the thickness of the brake disk. If the brake disk has a significant lip on the outer edge where it is not worn from the pads, it's time to change it. If the friction material on any of the pads is thinner than about 1/8", it's time to change them.

Also for the future, always indicate the year and type of vehicle you have in your post!

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 337K

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