Hello all,

Finally decided to try to pad replcmnt. Most steps are outlined here except the first step to remove the first bolt on the housing that covers the pads??? Bolt should be removed, and the housing lifted up, swinging away to expose the pads and all. BUT, mine seems very tight???

Any advice?

AC

Sometimes the bolts get over tightened or stuck from rust, heat,etc.. Are you using a wrench to hold the nut that the bolt screws into? Should be a 15mm or a 17mm. If you bought factory pads there should be new bolts in the box. Make sure you check the "slides" (pins) that the caliper rides in and out on for free movement. If they are not "free" then pull them out and clean them/ lube them.
Liquid wrench is a good penetrating lube for stuck bolts, you can find it at most auto parts stores.

Whew! got it!
 

Thanks Medic,

My brakes were a bit different from the tutorial on the site, much easier than I expected, the new pads went right in... did a test drive, mashed the brakes a couple of times, ABS kicked in... all's well.

I still have a problem with my tranny, sometimes at hightway speed, the tranny drops back into 3rd and the revs go through the roof??? Tranny fluid looks OK? Not low...

Any ideas? I see there is some leaki9ng at the radiator where the tranny fluid is cooled, can't locate the leak...

thanks again,

AC

Hi AC,
I've got a 1990 300E so our cars are probably similar. Can't help you with the shifting problem, but the leaking transmission fluid could be one or both of the two hoses leading to the radiator. I had a leak in this general area but could determine exactly where. Replaced both hoses and now everything is fine. I think one of them was leaking at the fittings. The hoses are inexpensive and an easy job to replace.

Good luck with the shifting problem.

Having just done the front pads on my car, I would caution you about "mashing" the brakes right after installing new pads. A couple of very experienced techs have told me the best way to break in new pads is to make about 10 SMOOTH, EASY stops from 35-40 mph, giving the pads/rotors time to cool down between each stop. If they are not broken in carefully, the new pads will develop burned and hardened areas where the high spots on the rotors make contact with the pads, and will significantly shorten brake pad life and alter the "feel" of the brakes. (I know this from experience, having only gotten 12K miles on a set of front pads once, but getting 25K from the last set.)

What do you do to your pads to only last 12 or 25K miles? I have 120K on my pads and they are only about half worn out.
P E H

We have a winner in the longest brake pad life contest: P.E. Haiges!
 

Phenomenal! Never heard of a fellow Benz-lover getting 120K on MB pads. My brother did get that kind of mileage on his Lexus, despite a "lead foot," but MB, as I understand it, deliberately uses rather soft pads to maximize braking at the expense of the pads. Certainly, I (and others on the 'detailing' list) carp about the large volumes of brake dust on our front wheels!

Admittedly my 400E has a larger swept area that a 300E, for example, and may chew up pads quicker than some, but from what I've heard on this and other lists, about 20-25k on front pads seems to be about average.

Word of caution when replacing pads. Remove and replace the pads one at a time. If you pull both of them out, then push the piston back in place, the pressure can push the other piston out far enough that the seal catches somehow and cannot be pushed back, it will mean rebuilding or replacing the caliper.

ONE PAD AT A TIME!

Good luck,

400E,

Wait. The contest isn't over yet. They still have another 120K to go. Come back in 10 years.

I don't know what type or brand the pads are because they were on the car when I bought it at 114K miles. I use the car mostly for long trips so there is very little city driving on them and I downshift on hills.

P E H