The drivers side rear window has some issues. I can hear the motor turning, and i can get the regulator to the bottome and then push the window down, but the regulator will not push it back up. If i manually pull the window up so it's only about 1 inch from being closed the regulator will take it the rest of the way up. I know they sell a regulator repair "kit", will that fix my problem? does is sound like a guide problem or like a regulator shot to crap? Also, on the passenger rear window when it gets about 3/4s of the way up it makes a clunking noise, and when i had the door apart i noticed alot of play in the plastic guide. if i replace both of these(12 bucks each) do you think it will solve my regulator problems? i have to take the regulator completely out to replace that anyway so i guess i could give it a go, but if it's not the problem i'm just going to leave them alone. I can't justify spending 140 bucks on a window that i personally NEVER use. thanks
RG

This one of the easiest DIY repairs I know of. Remove the window regulator you will see a the plastic (jaw) is probably broken. Grind off the bradded part of the rivet holding the jaw and just remove it. The new part comes with the new rivet and you just hammer the rivet to secure it. Put it back together and you're done. Sounds like both sides need the same repair.

Thanks! 24 bucks is well worth it to have two functional rear windows!

You're welcome windows is one of my favorites it's clean work.

any tips on how to remove the regulator? i've never done one so at this point i'll be going at it with the usual unscrew every bolt i can find that looks like it might help method.
thanks
RG

Remove the door panel. There's a plastic piece behind the inside door handle just pry it out with a pocket screwdriver there's a scew behind it and there's a scew at the top armrest handle, two screws bottom side of the arm rest, two tiny screws at the molding rear of the window and the two screws at the latch cover. Just lift up on the door panel and remove it. There are 4 bolts holding the regulator in place.

thanks, i am getting well versed at removing the door panels, but the regulator is new to me. What position should the window be in when i remove it? full up? does it just slide out or do i need to hammer some pins out? what about re-installation, do i need to do any gear or cable matching up? much thanks
RG

If the jaw is broken it does't make any difference. I like it all the way down. No matching up required.

thanks stan, you have no idea how much i appreciate it.
have a good night
RG

There are two bolts and one nut holding the regulator. There is another nut or bolt with a dab of red paint. DON'T touch this other nut or bolt as it's for adjusting the window.

Also, I couldn't get the regulator out without detaching the motor and angle drive (extra beam on my 91?). I released the regulator and raised it so all three angle drive bolts were accessible from the squarish hole under the quarter window. With the motor and angle drive detached, the regulator can slide out of the big hole towards the bottom of the door.

When I removed the angle drive, the regulator spring caught my finger. Next time, I'll start with the window up :)

Be careful when peening the rivet. On wrong blow and you'll smash the new jaw. If you haven't bought new jaws yet, they should be cheaper than $12 through Fastlane.

Sixto
91 300SE

thanks everyone, the new jaw is in and working well. It took two jaws to get it right, but it's good now. The first one i forgot to put something under the rivet, so when i hit it with the hammer it went "smash". Took the regulator to a good used/new parts place(Rick's european) and he sold me a new jaw peice and installed it while i watched for free. Thanks again everyone
R

Just did this job, here's a few hints
 

Hi All.


Just did this job. Here's how to make it easier.

1) To remove the regulator without taking the arm off, you must open the wiring terminal at the switch and pull out the black and green wires going to the motor. Make sure to scratch a "G" next to the terminal where the green wire went to aid in re-assembly. Do this with the switch still attached to the terminal so that all the wires don't just spring out of the terminal when you take the back off.

2) Remove the two bolts and single nut holding the regulator to the door.

3) Remove the bolt that holds the bottom of the window guide to the door. This is the bottom most 10mm bolt. With this bolt removed, the window guide will be able to flex out of the way as you slide the regulator down towards the large hole at the bottom of the door. Taking the arm off the regulator is not necessary. If you can't get it to fit, try raising or lowering the arm electrically via the switch until it fits. The window must be all the way up to allow the rail to flex.

4) Using a grinder or a drill, remove the old sliding jaw. Be careful not to knacker the arm, or enlarge the hole.

5) insert the new jaw

6) Place a 5mm or similar sized socket face up on a smooth, hard surface.

7) Place the regulator assembly on the work surface so that the rivet at the back of the sliding jaw sits squarely on the 5mm socket.

8) Peen the rivet down until the sliding jaw is snugly in place. Be sure to seat the rivet squarely on the socket so that all of the energy from the hammer is transferred to the metal and not the plastic.

9) Slide the regulator back through the hole and up as far as it will go into the corner of the door by the latch.

10) Raise or lower the window by hand until the sliding jaw is in a position to enter the track. Slide the jaw into the track, then maneuver the regulator back down into its mounting position.

11) Re fasten the two bolts and single nut that held the regulator in place.

12) Re fasten the bolt holding in the window guide. Use loctite blue.

The rest is just reverse of removal.


Have fun.


Took me 30 minutes, but that was because I had to discover for myself how to get the regulator out without removing the arm and incurring the wrath of a tensioned spring. Next time will be more like 20 minutes.


Also, these jaws are only $8 from the MB dealership, and around $4 online.


J.