A/C problems.
 

David,

Where did you see that my car had the sunroof corrected? I think I will call the dealer today to see if they will replace the bracket.


Oh, I put in my VIN incorrectly...heres the correct # WDBHA22E3RF059251.

I deleted the old codes and now, all Im getting is the 60 code.

So it seems as though this is your problem:

60: A/C Compressor, Electromagnetic Clutch (A9K1), CAUSE: Short Circuit. Intermittent.

I guess that helps us since 62 was the same only the cause was a short or open circuit. So now we know that's a short circuit!


Your sunroof problem has ben corrected because your chassis number is AFTER 025776.

Hope this helps!
Good luck!!!! :o

A/c problems
 

I guess the replacement was just a touch better than the original. I guess I will have to take it in to have the bracket fixed. I hate to mess with the sunroof since for the most part it operates wonderfully now that the tracks have been greased. Ok, so now the A/C....Im only getting one of the error codes now, but I dont think the problem is in the compressor, because the A/C works great....even though the middle vents cut out(they actually just switch to defrost), the A/C blows out the same..in fact, the cabin still manages to cool down, although it takes longer because the air is coming out of the defrost vents. The side vents continue to work the same as well. I do think it has something to do with the flaps shorting out, and in the DIY section, I read that the climate control defaults to the defrost position when there is a problem with the climate control....I hate to take it to the dealer for what I think is such a small problem, and im thinking its a relay switch, or a vacuum hose somewhere that is disconnected or pinched....

I can't speak specifically for you model, but on most cars, the auto climate control uses the engine vacuum to operate. There is usually a 'one way' valve to hold the CC vacuum when the engine's vacuum drops.
On higher mileage cars, either the related hoses start to leak or the one way valve leaks. You open the throttle(in gear), vacuum drops, CC sees the lower vac and gets confused. Close throttle, vac up, works normal.

If you blip the throttle without load (not in gear)usually the CC will not be affected.

Hope this helps, Jim


'98 E320
'91 Miata Turbo 280hp
'90 Miata Turbo 230hp
'90 Audi 200 turbo
'93 Caravan

vacuum hose
 

That vacuum pressure sounds like what might be doing this....Because when it first started acting up, it seemed like the A/C and the engine were on a see-saw, and when the AC was working, the engine was idling, and when the engine was revving, the AC front vents switched to defrost...as soon as you let off the gas, the AC would switch back to the front vents...Now, after a few months, the vents take longer to come back on, usually when Im at cruising speed at 60 or 70, and let off the gas pedal....the front vents will slowly come back on....

But how do I check this? where would I find the vacuum hoses? are they inside next to the AC filter, or are they outside connected to the engine somewhere?


thanks for your help.

The C class gets it AC needed vacuum from the (central locking) vacuum pump in the right rear of the trunk.

It might be possible that somebody connected the vacuum line for the AC controls to the engine vacuum and that vacuum is not sufficient to control the vacuum valves involved.
There is a black plastic connector under the black cover behind the firewall at the right side of the engine bay and it might be possible that your AC vacuum is connected to that connector.
Check the vacuum pump in the trunk as well...you should be able to hear it pumping once in a while when you operate the AC system.
You are right about the default setting of the AC. AS soon as the car (and AC/heater) is turned off, the vacuum valves go back to their default position which is defrost (open vents along the windscreen and sides of the dash/side windows)

Does your C class have a vacuum adjustable ortopedic seat?

Ok....I will check the vacuum hose today...if my AC vacuum is connected to the engine connector, where should it be connected? or how can I test it?

As far as the vacuum pump in the trunk, I can hear the one for the power door locks....and it buzzes constantly...when the car is on....is there another one? Or is the one for the door locks the same one....I think there is something wrong with it because it is always buzzing, and shouldnt it only make noise when you lock the doors?

That is the one!!! And that is your problem!!!
If the vacuum pump is constantly buzzing, you have a vacuum leak in your AC system.
The vacuum pump in the trunk has 2 outlets; 1 for the central doorlock and 1 for the AC controls.
If I were you, I started in the trunk. If the AC vacuum line is connected to the engine's vacuum, the pump in the trunk still gets commands from the AC because of the faulty set vacuum valves...

Start by finding out where the AC vacuum is connected to and then start searching for a leak.

good lick & greetingz,

Yes, it should only make noise when you lock the doors, or change the air distribution with the climate control. It should not be constantly on. Are you sure it's always on? DOes it ever stop?

Ummm....thanks, and I actually might be the bonehead that switched the hoses...cause I got in the trunk vefore this problem started thinking that there might be short somewhere making that buzzing noise...and I pulled the hoses off....later when I reattached them, I think I might have screwed them up, because the first way I reattached them, the doors locked down tighter than ft knox!!!! I would have been in trouble had the trunk been closed....so I might have inadvertently screwed up the pump....but, at least now I know where to look....Ill check the connections and if that seems ok, Ill trace the line to see if I can find the leak....

THANK YOU!!!! I will let you know how it goes...

;)

David,

No, it doesnt buzz nonstop....there is a 5 or 10 second gap....kind of like if someone is playing with the locks...but the locks dont move....I think its always done it to some extent, I thought it was the power antenna until I traced it to the back fender well in the trunk on the opposite side....It even made the sound after the car was off, and the doors were locked...

I guess if the whole unit is bad, I can order one online here....I hope they arent too expensive....Ill check tonight to make sure its not the actual hose...

BTW a 'minivac' would be very helpful finding the leak. It is a handheld devise that create vacuum and has a vac gage. Lots of adaptors included. You can find at autoparts store.

Good luck, Jim

Well, the code 60 I wouldn't worry about. I am sure it's related to something else. I get 60 too. That code just keeps coming back also.

Let us know how it goes with the vaccum pump! I hope this solves your problem! I am sure it will.

:D :D :D

Now we're getting somewhere!
 

Ok, thanks to everyones help, and countless posts...I am very close to fixing this thing. I think this vacuum pump has gone bad. I took it apart, and it doesnt look that great inside...so, now, I tried to find the part (202 800 12 48) here on the parts shop, but they dont have it....does anyone know where I can get one...and cheap if possible...perhaps a used one? Thanks in advance.


Carlos

Carlos,
Call the number on the top of the screen!! Ask for phil he will help you out.
Good luck!