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  #1  
Old 08-04-2001, 02:53 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Kansas City, KS
Posts: 26
Unhappy stupid mistake 260 E

doh. I have a 89 260 E and it's a great car. I finally solved the overvoltage relay failure thanks to you guys here. Thanks so much. Heres my stupid problem. I was changing the oil and the shop that changed the oil previous overtightened the oil plug. So I managed to strip the plug big time. It's now mangled metal. I don't know what to do. I was hoping to get it off somehow and run over to a parts shop and get a replacement plug but it's so far gone now. Help. Do I just leave it there and change oil using a topsider from now on, or take it to a professional who knows what to do?


89 260 E
80 450 SLC
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1989 260E >105K
1980 450 SLC 22k
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  #2  
Old 08-04-2001, 07:38 AM
glmoy
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If it does not leaking you can just use topsider
for oil changes. When loosening a oil plug allways use a 6 point wrench or socket.
And...If if you really want it off....
If you cannot get it loose with vice grips, then
another alternative is to weld a short bolt on
plug so you can have something to put a wrench
on. If you are not up to this then I suggest
you take it in and have it done.

Gary
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  #3  
Old 08-04-2001, 01:00 PM
Southern_Son
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One point on the tack welding, never stick an arc to a computerized vehicle. Remove the oil pan first from the vehicle first.
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  #4  
Old 08-04-2001, 02:22 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: California
Posts: 324
I had the same problem. I use a 1/2" craftsman 6 point socket on it now. The 1/2" socket fits snugly, whereas the 13mm is loose. I killed at least 3 plugs before I started using the 1/2". No more troubles now...
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  #5  
Old 08-04-2001, 02:50 PM
Lebenz's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: In the fog
Posts: 2,862
some other possible solution would be to

a) with the engine stone cold, put some penetrating oil on the bolt and let it sit a while

b) take a light weight hammer and whack the bolt a few times to help loosen it

c) take a chisel and score a line through what remains of the bolt to provide a contact point.

Then either use the chisel to move the bolt, or a vice grips, or one of the methods mentioned above, or drill the bolt and use an easy out.

If there is a fair amount of metal on the bolt, you could drill through the side, and insert a screw driver or similar small and hard piece of steel to gain some leverage.

You could also use a sawzall to cut a couple of straight sides onto what’s left of the bolt so you can get a better grip with a vice grips

Hope this helps…!
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...Tracy

'00 ML320 "Casper"
'92 400E "Stella"
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  #6  
Old 08-04-2001, 05:15 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Kansas City, KS
Posts: 26
Talking problem resolved

This was the most expensive oil change ever. I decided to bring the car into a shop and they were able to chisel the nut loose. I went out and bought a vice wrench but that just stripped the nut even more, eventually I don't think any metal would have been left. Even the guys at the shop said the folks who previously changed the oil left everything very tight. I want to thank everybody for their input and help.
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1989 260E >105K
1980 450 SLC 22k
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  #7  
Old 08-05-2001, 05:19 AM
glmoy
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Southern_Son,

They disconnect the battery before they
do this only before they have the radio codes,
if it has a coded radio.

Allmost all auto body shops use a pin welder
on the body for repairs. Theis is done on
computerized vehicles for the last 14 years.

Gary
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  #8  
Old 08-05-2001, 10:07 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
All manufacturers extend the arc welding warning on modern cars.

One thing I absolutely wouldn't do is remove the battery cables. The battery acts as a dampener to transient voltages. It sucks up all high and low voltages. The biggest problem is that the battery is not hooked to many things with the key off. You still need the battery to establish ground though.

We use a device thats been out for about ten years. It clamps to the positive and negative terminals and guarantees to protect all electronics against arc welding. I have always presumed it to be a large capacitor.
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #9  
Old 08-05-2001, 11:52 AM
glmoy
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Steve,
You said,
"One thing I absolutely wouldn't do is remove the battery cables. The battery acts as a dampener to transient voltages. It sucks up all
high and low voltages. The biggest problem is that the battery is not hooked to many things with the key off. You still need the
battery to establish ground though."

Is this only for welding???? Midas didn't
even do this for the muffler.

When my car went in for body work they disconnected the battery cable. Yet another
shop did the same when I went in for a valve
job. How I know this is when I first turned
radio on it went to ASU. This automatic
setup goes on when battery is disconnected. It
seems to be common practice to do this when
ever car is worked on for any electronics and
I would guess body shop does not want battery
hooked up in painting area due to explosion hazard.

Gary
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  #10  
Old 08-05-2001, 12:01 PM
glmoy
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motu70,
Glad it worked out for you. My friend's
Honda Accord was not so lucky. When plug was
pulled it was cross threaded and self tapping
repair plug didn't seal. Cost him over
$300 for new oil pan. The shop that did the
oil change and many previous ones would't
take any responsibility for stripped out
oil pan.

I change the oil in all my vehicles from
the top through the dipstick hole.

Gary
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  #11  
Old 08-05-2001, 12:26 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
"Located in low overhead Monroe, WA"

Are you referring to flight ceilings here (bg). I grew up in Renton.

There are many reasons for disconnecting the battery, most are to prevent short circuit risks while disassembling. Similar to flipping the breaker at home to work on the outlet or light. When trying to prevent spike voltages the battery is an ally
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #12  
Old 08-06-2001, 01:00 AM
glmoy
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Steve,
"Located in low overhead Monroe, WA" This was a
reference to cheap property values, which are rapidly escalating. One of my lots 1/3 acre
was purchased in 1991 for $6000.00 The average
lot values for this size now are 45-55,000.00

Its still cheaper to live here than Seattle, WA
where the average house is in the $230,000 range.

We are rapidly approaching the average price of
$190,000 in Monroe.

The real question is can we afford to retire
within 250 miles of any metropolitan area.

Gary
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