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Old 08-11-2001, 12:05 AM
G-Benz's Avatar
Razorback Soccer Dad
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Dallas/Fort-Worth
Posts: 5,711
Oh yeah, I forgot that you need to remove the screw and plate near the door latch!

2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car
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Old 08-11-2001, 03:22 AM
pmizell's Avatar
Benz Zealot
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 838
Thanks for the informative how-to Bourman:p

BTW, what did you find behind the wood panel once you removed it all? When I tap my knuckle to my wood panel, I hear a rattle also, as if a screw is loose in there somewhere.

Guess I'll tackle this job tommorrow.

Thanks again,


'91 300E 197k
'01 E430, Sport 72,000 mi
'98 C280, 126,500 mi

Last edited by pmizell; 08-11-2001 at 03:35 AM.
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Old 08-11-2001, 01:57 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Boise, Id.
Posts: 116
Thumbs up Wood Panel Rattle

Yep, there are 5 nuts (5 or 6) that hold the panel on the door panel. This is why I tore into mine, it was driving (short putt) crazy! All the nuts were loose and the washers were just having a ball dancing around in there. I even took off the other rear panel to tighten the nuts over there! One less rattle! > BOBB
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Old 08-03-2002, 08:30 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Soggy Seattle
Posts: 30
Since this is about the best thread I've found on removing rear door panels (thanks to the great pictures), I thought I'd add a few comments from my recent experience. These are based on my '88 300TE which is very similar to the 400E door.

First, the trim around the window switch and door handle pivots at the back on my car, not the bottom. So you pry gently on the forward edge. Not a big deal.

The second comment has to do with the door handle itself. I had trouble sliding the panel up to remove it because the door handle was in the way (it sticks through the panel and has a small lip that goes over it). After forcing the first one I figured out a much better way to do the second one.

Use a needle nose pliers to pull up on the rod connected to the clip on the back of the door handle. On mine the clip is white with three prongs. After the rod is released, you can slide the whole handle forward and then pull it straight out. Makes removing the panel easier.

The tough part for me was getting the panel off at the top where meets the window. I think it would be easier if the window were down but my windows weren't working (which was why I took the panels off in the first place).

Hope this helps someone.

1988 300TE
1991 Miata
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Old 06-03-2007, 03:27 PM
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 1,102
Yes, the MBz CD instructions, which are NOT as clear as BOBB's, state to lower the window and pop the top rail out.. THNX gents, panel removed with NO J clips broken, and I'm on my way to R&R the regulator! Hope its as easy.

I found no issue with the door handle. My tip is to use your knee against the bottom of the arm rest and lift as you pull up on the ashtray cutout or other surface. Also DO pop the top rail off a the upper front and work it loose before you attempt to remove the panel. Its TIGHT.

Piece of cake due to these folks here at!

Last edited by WINGAS; 06-03-2007 at 04:05 PM.
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