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-   -   rear springs w201 (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/217916-rear-springs-w201.html)

costanza 03-30-2008 12:27 AM

rear springs w201
 
I could have sworn that I have read that if you remove the rear shocks on a w201 chassis, the springs will practically fall out on there own without using a compressor, but now I can't find the article. True?

97civicdx 03-30-2008 01:33 AM

If you jack up the rear end and put it on jack stands or have it on a body lift, you can use a floor jack to lift the control arm and unbolt the inner control arm bolt from its mounting location. Then you can lower the control arm and the spring will fall from its perch.

Good luck

compress ignite 03-30-2008 01:45 AM

no comment.
 
I started to make a suggestion and then declined.

some other member took care of business.

costanza 03-31-2008 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97civicdx (Post 1808544)
If you jack up the rear end and put it on jack stands or have it on a body lift, you can use a floor jack to lift the control arm and unbolt the inner control arm bolt from its mounting location. Then you can lower the control arm and the spring will fall from its perch.

Good luck

Thanks! The car is on jack stands and everything attaching to rear sub-assembly to the body of the car is detached except for the 4 large main bolts. Exhaust, brake and fuel lines are all out of the way. Can you show me a picture of the "inner control arm bolt"? There are several "links" attaching the wheel carrier to the sub-assembly. I'm not sure which on you are referring to. Thanks again!

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...a/untitled.jpg

costanza 03-31-2008 12:35 AM

Okay... I think I get it. With all the links there, I thought you were referring to an "inner control arm" other than the "main control arm". Yes, I've read about that risky procedure. I could have SWORN that I had read that removing the rear shocks allowed the arm to swing down and the spring would fall out. I guess I must have dreamed it :) I have also read that if you jack up the rear at the differential and remove the 4 main bolts holding the rear sub-assembly to the body of the car, as you lower the differential, the springs would fall out.This doesn't seem to make sense though. Seems to me you should jack up the outside ends of both control arms along with the differential as you remove the 4 main bolts.

costanza 04-01-2008 12:53 PM

Nevermind. I dropped the rear sub-assembly from my 190E without the use of a spring compressor.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...nza/rear-1.jpg

97civicdx 04-01-2008 07:10 PM

Dropping the whole subframe was a bit extreme but it was Number 3 on the diagram. I was referring to the control arm where the spring pocket is, that inner arm bolt. Good luck with your project

costanza 04-01-2008 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97civicdx (Post 1811305)
Dropping the whole subframe was a bit extreme

Not really. I was stripping my wrecked '92 to the bone. I sold the shell of the car to the salvage guy today for $50.

riorust 04-02-2008 05:34 AM

Hey Costanza,

I've got to admire you...I've read your posts on this site and on the "Rev", and it seems that you have torn into your 190's quite a bit in the few months you have been at it.

I have plans to do a similar tear down and refurbish, but I have to do it at a friends house 35 miles away because I live in an apartment in LA. Your posts have been a big help in planning for me.

Please continue posting your endeavors and progress, its been a big help.

Thanks,
David

costanza 04-03-2008 12:11 AM

Sure :)
I ordered a coil spring compressor today to refurbish the front lower control arms. I've already received the front lower control arm bushings and ball joints (about $100 total from ***************). I'm hoping I can do it all myself with a ball joint press from Autozone.

On a separate note, whereas the 2.6 engine I recently put into the $500 190E used to start up quickly and stay running when installed in my wrecked 190E, it takes a few seconds to start now and will die if I don't give it a blip on the throttle. One blip is usually enough and it runs smoothly. I'm thinking it has something to do with fuel delivery. I don't know the history of this $500 car, but the gas tank appears to have been removed because it was never bloted back down to the car's body. I'll probably replace the fuel pump/filter assembly with the one from my wreck first to see if that helps matters.

BTW, I'm on benzworld.org too... username JimAB :)


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