Hi replaced it now the car will not start before i replaced it started right up but idiled rough. Any help please.
Only way it will start is if I prime it with some gas but it will not idle, will only run if I hold the pedal down

Get a new o-ring for the bottom of it first. Remove all the fuel lines from it, remove the 3 flat head screws and pull it out.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

I replaced the fuel distributor and now the car will not start, what do I need to do ?

Hi I just replace it now the car will not start at all any ideas?

I'm just a newbie, so I don't speak from experience, but my mechanic told me how he did it when he replaced the fuel distributor on my 420SEL. But just in case I got something wrong, follow the instructions of the real M-B mechanics on here, if they respond to your post.

When you replace the fuel distributor, the mixture adjustment inevitably changes a great deal and prevents the engine from running. Crank the engine a bit first with the spark plugs installed, and then remove the plugs so you can crank the engine with the starter more easily and therefore won't run your battery down so fast. If the plugs are wet with gas, you're too rich; if not, maybe you're too lean. (Check to make sure what you are supposed to do with the spark plug leads while you are cranking it with the plugs out. I'm not sure if cranking the motor with the plug leads disconnected can damage your ignition system or not. On some cars it can, unless you take protective measures.)

While cranking the engine with the plugs out, first listen to see if you can hear fuel squirting constantly into the combustion chambers. If so, you are 'way rich. Don't crank it very long if this is the case, or you'll dilute your oil. Assuming gas is not being injected constantly, next measure the duty cycle at the diagnostic connector while cranking to find out whether the mixture adjustment is too rich or too lean, and set the mixture adjustment to its baseline so the car will at least start and run, even though it might run badly. Once you get it running, you should be able to tell whether it's running rich (the usual problem) or lean, and adjust it accordingly. If you're going the right way, it will run better, and if the wrong way, it will run worse. Usually you have to lean it out (CCW) after setting it to baseline. Once you have it idling pretty well, measure the duty cycle again and adjust the mixture precisely.

As I say, this is just how I heard is is supposed to be done. No personal experience. If any of the real M-B mechanics on here tell you to do it differently, do what they say.