Thanks MB Doc. I think I'll drive it for a while and see if the light goes out on its own. Bob H

Robert,
The check engine light will not turn off on it's own. You MUST reset it. Do what MBDoc says (though I used to just unplug the battery... MBDoc's idea sounds better), and THEN drive it some more to see the results.
Again, the MIL will not go out on it's own. It MUST be reset!

__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)

I'm disappointed to report that apparently the air mass sensor was not the problem. After pulling the #32 fuse then reinstalling it the 'check engine' light did go out and it seemed to run better for a while. Now 60 miles later the light returned and the problem has also returned with a vengence. Same symptoms but worse. Let me elaborate on the problem and perhaps that will help.
The stalling seems to be at it's worse after the car has been warmed up pretty good. Then turned off for a while (5 to 10 minutes) then restarted. Tonight after going into a store, when I came back to the car it started fine and idled fine but when I tried to accelerate there was almost no reaction at all - the car just sat there. Finally I discovered that if I put it in nuetral and pumped the accelerator vigorously the engine would begin to rev and then smooth out and I could limp away. Then once under way it would run fine until I came to a stop and then it was de ja vous all over again. What do you think. Bob H

Several years ago I had a 1982 Mazda 626 (since totaled) which exibited some of the same symptoms I've been referring to with the C280. It turned out to be the catalytic converter. Does this sound like a posiblility to anyone? Bob H

A 1995 C280's check engine light will not turn off on it's own. Sometime later, not sure of the year, they made it turn off after certain mileage if the problem had corrected itself. Although I strongly believe that 95s will not turn off. Correct me if anyone knows otherwise.

__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)

I'm sure you are right, David. That's what MB Doc told me but I misunderstood. Since then I've pulled that fuse and put it back. It went out for a while, but then came back on. I pulled it again and put it back and once again it's off, but for how long I couln't say. But the problem with the car is still with me. I hope you all will keep thinking about what I could try to do to fix it. Bob H

Over all the car is running a lot better but not perfect. The 'check engine' light has remained off. I replaced the OVP. Now the only symtom I'm seeing is that maybe 25 or 30 percent of the time accelerating from zero, the car wants to hesitate then it seems to pass some critical point and then accelrate normally. If I don't let the car come to idle that is keep my foot on the accelerator just enough so that it keeps about a 1000 rpm, there is no problem at all except I don't like having to do that. Thanks. Bob H

Thanks Black Mercedes. Could you elaborate a little. I took a quick look at the engine compartment , but didn't see anything that I could readily identify as a wiring harness. Where is it in a 95 C280 with a 104 engine? Should I be able to tell if it's wearing out (frayed or something obvious)? Are there more than one?
Also the parts dept. didn't seem to recognize the part called 'wiring harness'. Does it go by any other name? Thanks for your help. Bob H

Robert,
The wiring harness is all of the wires in the engine bay. The early 104 engines used poor materials where the wire covers would all flake off from the heat. This causes all sorts of random problems within the engine!! If you do a search, you'll come up with all sorts of information on this topic. IF you have 100k miles or less on your car, sometimes MB will replace it for free or split the cost. Are you the original owner of the car?
Cost is about a grand to have it done. Be sure and do a search, you should find a fair amt of info on the topic.
Inspect all wires in the engine bay for flaking covers! Good luck (or actually not, hope it's an easier fix than that...!)

__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)

I would also check the spark plugs for carbon build up - this also will cause some of the problems with poor acceleration, etc.

Hopefully this will be my last post on this subject. After spending $500 on analysis that told me nothing, an air mass sensor, and an OVP, I think the final solution was to clean the contacts on my spark plug connectors (I finally found where Mercedes hid them - under that panel thing on top of the engine) and make sure there was good contact being made. You're probably wondering why I didn't try that first. Me too! The car is running very well right now (better than even before I really noticed the problem). I believe I'm going to go ahead and change out the plugs anyway just because I don't think they've been changed before. I'm replacing them with the same kind that are in there now (Bosch C8DC4's I think) unless someone tells me that that's not a good idea.
Thanks for all the input. Bob H