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-   -   Lost turn signals and clock and the sunroof works backwards after replacing the radio (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/219974-lost-turn-signals-clock-sunroof-works-backwards-after-replacing-radio.html)

GDC 04-19-2008 08:37 PM

Lost turn signals and clock and the sunroof works backwards after replacing the radio
 
I am ready to pull my hair out. My son and I replaced the Becker radio in our 1993 300E with a JVC KD-G230. After finishing we took the car out to enjoy the new sounds and found that the clock is not working, the turn signals and hazard lights are not working either. The brake lights do work however. We also found that the sunroof switch quit working properly. Pushing the switch to open the vent closes the sunroof and all other positions cause it to open. I did pull the knob on the sunroof motor out and I can't figure out how to push it back in. Any suggestions as to how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Greg

stevebfl 04-19-2008 09:05 PM

The original radio has a fuse that was powered all the time. It sounds like that fuse is blown. The wire possibly hooked to something it shouldn't be.

GDC 04-19-2008 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevebfl (Post 1829600)
The original radio has a fuse that was powered all the time. It sounds like that fuse is blown. The wire possibly hooked to something it shouldn't be.

Stevebfl

Where might this fuse be located? I checked all of the ones in the fuse panel and all are in good shape.

Thanks
Greg

Stoney 04-20-2008 06:10 PM

check these fuses
 
All the affected suystems use the same master ground E1

Check the power source you tapped into for the radio. Use a Voltmeter!
I checked the JVC manual on line and connect as follows
MB Side JVC Side
Blue to Blue for power antenna
Red w/ White stripe to Yellow constant (memory)
Brown is neg ground to Black Ground
Black w/ Yellow stripe to Red switched on/off from ignition switch


If you thought the black/violet was ground and hooked it as such there is your source of trouble you are feeding +12 into a ground loop situation at E1 and into all the devices that share that ground so the work in reverse as they now have a compromised ground at E1.

Please post back if this fix works.

Try hooking the red/white MB wire to the yellow new radio harness wire and the black/violet to the red new radio wire and brown to the black new radio wire

Quote:

Originally Posted by GDC (Post 1829699)
Stevebfl

Where might this fuse be located? I checked all of the ones in the fuse panel and all are in good shape.

Thanks
Greg


GDC 04-21-2008 11:51 AM

I got most of it squared away yesterday. The turn signals turned out to be a broken ground wire. The 4ways and clock turned out to be a broken wire as well. I had 12V at the radio, but nothing at the clock. I rewired from the red white to the clock and everything started working again. I verified my connections and I do not have any power going directly to ground that I can find.

The sunroof still has me perplexed. I believe that the problems are coming from the fact that I pulled out the white knob on the motor and now I can't figure out how to push it back in. Any suggestions on how to get that knob back in?

Thanks
Greg

GDC 04-22-2008 08:06 AM

The problem was the knob. I got it pushed back in and timed the sunroof witht he motor and all is well.

Thanks

Stoney 04-22-2008 11:17 PM

Timing
 
Good work on the white button, first time I did that it drove me nuts for a day or three...

Glad you got the radio sorted out, I forget how brittle old wires can be.

What is easiest method to get to the lube points on the sunroof rails, I have a drag condition when the roof is cold, also some intermittent slowness that leads me to want to replace the SR relay (when engine is idling at 750 the SR is slow close or in spurts but at 1200 rpms it is normal speed).

Ideas?

Anyone come up with an easy tool to lube the cable sheath inside? I was thinking of using a monojet dental cleaning syringe (about the size af a med Sharpie pen) cause it has a curved 2 inch plastic needle that can be cut like a caulk gun tip...also the MB Spooge lube looks viscous enough to flow thru easy.

Same as yours 93 300E

GDC 04-23-2008 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stoney (Post 1832748)
Good work on the white button, first time I did that it drove me nuts for a day or three...

Glad you got the radio sorted out, I forget how brittle old wires can be.

What is easiest method to get to the lube points on the sunroof rails, I have a drag condition when the roof is cold, also some intermittent slowness that leads me to want to replace the SR relay (when engine is idling at 750 the SR is slow close or in spurts but at 1200 rpms it is normal speed).

Ideas?

Anyone come up with an easy tool to lube the cable sheath inside? I was thinking of using a monojet dental cleaning syringe (about the size af a med Sharpie pen) cause it has a curved 2 inch plastic needle that can be cut like a caulk gun tip...also the MB Spooge lube looks viscous enough to flow thru easy.

Same as yours 93 300E

I'm not sure if this is the correct procedure to lube the cable, but I opened the SR and shot dry lubricant up the cable housing using the red extension tube that came witht he can of lube. If you are careful you can work the ext. tube in ~1 1/2 -2" from the motor end. I was afraid to use any liquid lubes due to the plastic on steel construction of the cable.

Stoney 04-24-2008 11:31 AM

Thanks
 
I'll give it a whirl...

Note my new post about Aux cooling Fans and how to tell if the brushes are shot...

any input would be appreciated, PM or Public Post.


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