I was changing a rear link and the sway bar link trying to get rid of a clunking noise coming from the rear suspension.
The good news is, I think I found the noise cause. The bad news is, it is the outer bushing of the rear control arm, the one that connects the rear control arm to the wheel carrier. The rubber around it is falling apart.
Since I was not expecting this, my question is most likely for the pros.
Do I need a new wheel carrier or can the bushing be replaced by itself?
If the latter applies. Does the wheel carrier to come off either way or can it be done on the vehicle with a MB special tool?
I think this one looks that is going to my mechanic but I want to be aware of the proper procedure so I can brace myself for some $$ damage...
Thanks!

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J.H.
'86 300E

Anybody? PLEASE!!!!!!

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J.H.
'86 300E

First of all the bushing is a seperate piece that presses into the rear carrier and can be serviced seperately. Check it carefully. It is a strange bushing. I don't think it has any rubber in it. Rather it is steel sealed grease unit like a lower ball joint that allows a wobble type movement. It is like no other bushing on the car or most cars. If you don't know how to examine, have someone who knows examine it. But then again you may have found the problem.

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1990 190E 2.6
1996 Grand Voyager 3.3
1985 Mustang GT 5.0 5 SPD
1982 Suzuki GS 750T

I just last week replaced the trailing arm that this bushing is in on my 240D. To install a new one you are going to have to remove the trailing arm because the bushing is pressed into place. It is just about impossible to remove it and replace it while the trailing arm is still on the car. I am pretty sure that Fast lane will have this part.

I had given a friend of mine some instructions based on how I accomplished this task. Maybe this will help you also. The method below does not require you to open up the rear end casing.

> > Prep: Raise the entire back end of the car and either put jack stands or
in
> > my case cinder blocks and landscaping ties under the car on both sides ,
> > just in front of the rear suspension bolt plates. Make sure the car is
solid
> > on these stands.
> > Step one: Pull the wheel,axle bolt and the emergency Brake cable,you
will
> > have to pull the brake lining also to do this.
> > Step Two: Disconnect the sway bar link.
> > Step Three: Position floor jack under hub and jack up so you can unbolt
and
> > remove the shock absorber.
> > Step Four: Lower the jack under the hub and remove the spring from its
> > cradle.
> > Step Five: Unbolt the trailing Arm from the mounts. Remove the outer
bolt
> > first. Put blocks or something under the trailing arm so it does not
drop
> > down on the floor to quick. Once you have the bolts out you can just
pull
> > the hub away from the axle.
> > Installation is the reverse of this outline.
You will have to add the last step of taking the trailing arm to someone who has a press to install the new bushing.
> > I hope this helps
> > Joe Brigman

Thanks for the help! I have access to a press and a lift but, I think I will take this one to my mechanic whenever I get some free time.
J.H.

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J.H.
'86 300E

Did you every get this repair performed, J.HIDALGO?

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VR
1967 250SL

but, I did some research:
the outer bushing cost $24.64 from Fastlane. Baum tools have the press that it is needed for pulling/pushing the old/new bushing in place. Bad news is, it is expensive around $100.
So whenever I get a chance I may take the car to Steve Brotherton in Gainesville (1 hour away) for replace the bushings and some other "things" on my car at the same time.
I do not have a quote for the job, but with that tool, it seems pretty straigh forward.
OTOH, it does not seem complicated to make your own...if you have the time!
Good luck!

__________________
J.H.
'86 300E

I bought my tool straight from MB. just like parts, aftermarket tools often don't cut it.

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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician