Headaches
 

I just got back from the neighborhood shop. I asked them to take off the set of wheels on my E500 with the snow tires and put on the wheels with the summer tires. The same place put the snow tire wheels on in December, I watched them do it with a torque connector on the air gun, limiting the pressure to 70 pounds. Well, they couldn't get any of the wheels off. They worked on the two back wheels, snapping off a total of four bolts and bending one. The other five they couldn't budge. They borrowed a 3/4 inch gun from a place down the street and all that did was shatter two different sockets.

They said they've seen this before with Benzes and with VW's because they have cast aluminum lug bolts which cause the steel hub threads to corrode. Any suggestions on how to get the remaining bolts out?

Not much help now but when I switch out my winter and summer tires I always wipe off the bolt and rub a dab of grease on the threads. The bolts stay snug when they are on and come off easy.

Don't mean to say you should've done this just making a suggestion for future references. Good luck

Either someone VERY good with a torch, or a big drill. We did the drill thing on a new CLS that the owner had the key for the anti theft lug nuts stolen. With the drill, you can just about guarantee no damage,,, not so with the torch, although we have never ruined a wheel that way either.

Mercedes lug bolts are NOT aluminum. Neither are VW.

Maybe heat it up with the torch and then cool with ice, then right away try to break them loose.

It might help

In my shop we deal with stuck wheel bolts all the time. On some models the inner end of the bolt can be heated with a torch very easily. On other models the backing plate can be bent, to gain access for the torch. The backing plate can then be bent back again. We've yet to have any "collateral damage" using this method.

Drilling should be used as a last resort, IMHO. If several bolts are stuck (and this is usually the case), drilling them out can be very time consuming, and the chances of damaging the wheel is increased.

Another problem caused by the Road Salt used in the North provinces
 

We all know the damage that Road Salt causes to cars in the Northern U.S. Somehow it is necessary to have a Winter car that can be used in those months where the roads are heavily salted, or to take "evasive" measures as suggested and put some form of grease on bolts, etc. that are subjected to it. Too bad they can't find a substitute for the salt that will treat the snow and ice. The other solution: Move south where the salt is not needed on the roads. Of course, that creates other problems, like bugs, tornados, hurricanes etc etc.

BC

Here, they use Magnesium chloride for de icing.. works ok If they can get it on the roads at the proper time... there is a corrosion thingie as well...

oh well either skate off the highly crowned roads here, or watch your body corrode.. sigh.. that's the problem of living in snow country... on the upside, with crappy tires that I have, couldn't even get it out of our icy driveway most of the winter...

Prolly a good thing Plan B vehicle is all wheel drive...

Aluminum lug bolts? If anyone told me such a story, I'd tell them to take my car off the lift immediately. I would then take it to a place that actually had a clue.

Sounds like someone went a little nuts with an impact gun. I find it very hard to beleive they will corrode on that bad over just a few months; I have never had that happen on any of my cars. I always tighten all my wheels with a torque wrench to 80ft pounds, and the bolts always break free with my 1/2 breaker bar, even on my SD where they were on for two solid years and two salty winters. However I have had the pleasure of fighting with broken stud's and stripped nuts, when some moron uses an impact gun set to max.:rolleyes:

When you do get them off, this is your new best friend! In salty climates you can't get stuff apart without it!
http://www.bikernet.com/news/images/PhotoID3032.jpg

I hit my lugs with anti seize once a year.

You should call around to a few machine shops.I have a 300 SDL and know first hand that they do corrode on the inner lip that contacts the wheel and a assortment of different years and models can have this happen. If your lucky you might contact a shop with an Ultra-sonic bolt releasing tool , works like a jiffy every time!! It mounts to the wheel and uses sound waves to slowly deteriorate the corrosion around the lug threads, allowing you to remove the broken studs with a simple pair of pliers.

Unfortunately, the image you attached did not come through. Can you try again? I need desperately to know who my new best friend is!

Ultra-sonic bolt releaser. I'll have to call around. I've never heard of one of those.

The FSM for my 210 specifically says to put no lubrication on the ball of the lug bolt nor on the seat of the rim. It does not say anything about lubrication of the threads, so I do use anti-seize there. Your ancient cars may vary.