I took your pic, and zoomed in a little.
The arrow, points to the area of the snap ring that has the break in it. With a utility knife (or something similar) you can get underneath the ring, and gently pry the ring out. The ring will snap right back into place when you're ready to put it back.
After I used the cleaner, I waited a bit, to make sure that any solvents had time to dissipate.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Jim F & Larry,

Thanks for your posts.

Today I ordered the neutral switch and brake stop switch from Fastlane. We'll see what effect they have once I get them and install.

I'll check the module stability/connections per Larry's suggestion - and also the MAF screen removal technique to better clean the wire. I'd actually started this the other day...but upon starting to pry the large snap ring away from the collar, thought I might ruin something so I decided to stop.

As to the throttle actuator - I've read Jim F's dialoque on this and decided, in light of the cost, to defer evaluating/replacing this for the time being. In other words, take a look at the smaller, less expensive possible fixes first - leave the throttle actuator as an option of last resort.

But once I get 'er figured out, I'll be sure to let you guys know.

Jim

__________________
Syntax26

1995 MB E420 (lowered)
1989 MB 300SE (sold to brother)
1975 MB 280 (sold)
One damn fine jacked-up golf cart

That's a good solution since the parts are not expensive and will cause a problem appear as if it's the ETA.

I would still recommend that you remove it . . . simply b/c you can really clean it better than you can on the car. The reason: wait until you try to start the car. . . nuff said.

I think that is a wise course of action b/c you are not getting the codes that generally "infer" a bad ETA.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

Thanks for taking the time to draw the arrow, Larry. Did you have any significant problems when you restarted your engine after cleaning your MAF? Maybe if I waited until the CRC evaporated it would decrease the likelihood of any engine coughing, which I'm presuming that's what Jim was referring to in the above post.

Every time I mess with something that isn't broken, I seem to end up spending the day fixing it.

__________________
1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles

I didn't have any starting problems. I did open the throttle plate for a few, so the cleaner could evaporate. (the engine was still a bit warm, but not hot enough for a flash fire)

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Thanks. I'm still deciding whether to "fix" something that's not yet broken.

__________________
1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles

Well, I promised I would up-date as to the benefits of all the well-intentioned suggestions and advice. Unfortunately...I've no good news to report so far.

I ordered from Fastlane, received and installed brake stop switch, neutral safety switch and air intake temperature sensor. I removed MAF screen and did a thorough cleaning of the hot wire sensor. (Even bought a magnifying glass for this - an idea sparked by Jim F's website).

Despite these 4 separate actions - the CEL continues to come on and I continue to pull DM codes 4 and 25...and pull them in same old cycle (start car 3 times - comes back on the 3rd ignition re-start. Incidentally, I've discovered that is it not necessary to achieve this by driving the car - or accelerating. Simply re-starting 3 times results in the CEL on again and the codes re-appearing).

Upon the last switch replacement not working, I did a exhaustive wire examination. I discovered severe insulation cracking and loss on the sensor wires that are part of the alternator/starter harness. The sensors are not ignition related (oil temp and level I believe) but since they go to the module box, I figured possible shorts...so I tore the old harness out, rebuilt it, and re-installed it. (A 4 day job). No change.

I haven't had a moment to get my code reader back into the diagnostic plug - might get a chance tonight - so I can't report the change yet in the other codes.

In the meantime...I guess I'm asking if anyone has a thought to where I should look next, BEFORE removing and examining the throttle actuator.

Someone (Dean? Larry? Jim F?) suggested I look at the pre-air pump and valves? I have not yet done this...primarily because I'm not sure HOW to diagnose a blockage or problem.

Which reminds me...with respect to the ETA - when I turn on the ignition, I believe I hear it reset. I mention this because I did a thorough re-reading of Jim F.'s dialogue on this topic, and I recall Jim saying his did not re-set. I'm pretty sure mine is. But this doesn't automatically mean my ETA if operating perfectly, does it?

By the way...my symptoms (other than the CEL and throwing codes) is that the car does not accelerate under load from a low RPM state. The car is great in mid to high RPM when moving... but from a standing start, and giving it gas...you can tell the engine is not performing well. From my carb days, it's similar to not enough fuel, or not enough air. (Which of course is the same thing here - just electronically I guess.)

One more thing: Despite replacing both the brake stop switch and the neutral safety switch (AND replacing every single fuse AND every single outside lamp) - I also continue to have the outside lamp warning light come on and stay on. And this is curious: it comes on only when the brake pedal is touched AND the gear shift knob is moved from the "park" position. Curiously, it doesn't come on if either of the above two are done alone - it only comes on if the brake pedal gets pushed AND the knob is moved/shifted slightly to the right (from the resting "park" position).

Well, quite a novel, huh? My apologies for my long discussion, but I'm almost out of thoughts of what to look at next, so I figured a clear head opining might help.

Thanks!

Jim V.

__________________
Syntax26

1995 MB E420 (lowered)
1989 MB 300SE (sold to brother)
1975 MB 280 (sold)
One damn fine jacked-up golf cart