89 300e volt coil upgrade?
 

can i use this coil w stock setup?

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/60000_volt.aspx

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/fla...-1_example.jpg

what resistance would be closest to original bosch? 3 1.5 or .45 ? ohm

and will i still need the (ceramic?) resistors in the engine bay if i swap it.

i get a rough idle maybe 1/5 times i drive car on hot days. think old coil is wearing out. might as well throw 3x the volts at it!

thx

I seriously doubt that the coil is the issue with your problem. Idle is one of the lower demands a coil faces.

I also don't know of any 300Es with (ignition) ballast resistors. For the most part changing the capabilities of one's coil does absolutely nothing to driveability. The coil only produces the voltage requred to jump the highest form of resistance. The energy stored in a coil has to do with the current used and the dwell time. If you alter the current you stand a good chance of frying the driver circuit in the controller. I'm pretty sure than MB uses a current limiting technique in those modules and as such if limited to less than the designed operating current the output might even be worse with a generic coil.

i suspect the ign side because many (everything?)on the fuel side has been replaced/rebuilt including pumps some black box gizmo on the air filter thats $200, new injectors etc.


is this not an ignition coil resistor? mine looks cracked (maybe half the problem)
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...m/DSCN1542.jpg

its right by the ABS unit

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...m/DSCN1543.jpg

the only other visible issue to me, is this engine vaccum line isnt there, the hose is far to short to reach up to this point, whats this go to? i need some longer vaccuum hose to fix it.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...m/DSCN1545.jpg
again the idle issue is reall only in 1 stop and go traffic, 2 hot days ,3 super intermittant

and it works itself out under driving. sooo as the engine uses some oil, say 1 qt per 500 miles, im thinking a hotter ign (msd+ this coil) would burn the oil/gas mixture better (if thats cause of rough idel, may not be)

<<<is this not an ignition coil resistor? mine looks cracked (maybe half the problem) >>>

As has been posted ......No Ballast resistor..
That one pictured is Aux Fan pre-resistor for low speed a/c fan.

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=2AO123CS42D718YG33&year=1989&make=MB&model=300-E-002&category=G&part=Aux.+Fan+Resistor

You want to check your Plugs and plug wires...and you do not want a coil with an R value much less than OEM or you will tax the ECU drivers.

Common fallacy: high performance coil produces a hotter spark. As it turns out a mixture heavy in oil fires at a lower voltage than a good clean lean one. The more important point is that the coil capacity has absolutely nothing to do with the firing voltage untill the loading is such that one exceeds capacity. Maybe if you get a MSD multi strike ignition you could burn off that oil, but it would be a whole lot cheaper to just do valve guide oil seals and quit burning all that oil. Replacing the plug wire ends might be worth while

thx for clearing that up!

exactly what i was thinking with the MSD box, if it fires for 20 degrees of crank swing, that corrects a whole lot of timing stretch etc. and MSD is cool stuff! (tho i gather its only mutliple sparks under 3k) but thats just where i do alot of non fun driving in the 2k range

valve guides seals i gather are only $200ish? i think they are beyond my point of wrenching. car has 147K, runs great 90% of time
the guy who does stuff i cant do like ball joints doesnt do engine, and the guy he sent me 2 for engine stuff lost my cold air intake hose and broke my temp sender when he did injectors! so he blows.

i did randomly see a tiny garage with 'mercedes specialist' while driving 2nite!

which end of the plug am i renewing the spark or dist? and i saw a whole new set online for $90 so that might be better, the engine guy did say i needed a new plastic plug wire thing, the wires are all dissaray, maybe some cross talk problems? need those plastic clips that hold them apart