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thinking of Buying MB 300 wagon from early 90's
I have been toying around with buying a MB wagon from the early 90's (90 to 94) and was trying to glean from the forum if there are any issues that I should be looking out for on the cars (i.e. - get or avoid the 4matic, parts that fail, etc)
From what I have gathered, I would be best served to keep away from the newer, more electronic models, plus I dont drive a hell of a lot, maybe 5 miles/ 9 Km a day, so I thought a good old fashion tank might fit the bill well. I also like the idea of being able to run a car up to 500 to 600Km Any input/advice would be appreciated for a novice MB buyer thanks |
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I might skip the 94's, unless you can verify that the engine wiring harness has been replaced. Many people love their 300TE's
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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D |
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much thanks.........what years was the wiring harness an issue on
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Shoe Stor - home of the clear shoe box |
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This reply might be kinda late - sorry...forgot to check thread.
The years seem to be mostly 94 & 95, although I thought I read somewhere about some late 93's - but I'm not certain about that.
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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D |
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much thanks..........still looking.........trying to avoid a 4matic
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Shoe Stor - home of the clear shoe box |
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moved
for more answers.
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Quote:
Why avoid the 4Matic? all wheel drive is a great asset unless the MB version is trouble prone. My Subaru was a fantastic wagon with AWD... do tend to agree with you that simpler is better, but does that mean skipping antilock brakes too? I tend to look at things in two catagories Things That Help in an Accident (or help to avoid one) and Useless Doodads antilock = TTHA awd = TTHA crush zones = TTHA etc. power door closers = UD DVD players = UD heated seats = UD I can live without the UD, but would want the TTHA stuff... Good luck in your search
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
#8
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The two big issues for that engine will be the wiring harness and the engine head gasket, 1993 to 1995 for both issues. Even if the head gasket was replaced early in the car's life, it could leak again. MB did a redesign of the gasket that added extra strength to the problem area (there is an excellent article in the DIY Articles on M104 head gasket replacement written by Steve Brotherton that provides more info on this whole issue) but if your car didn't get the redesigned gasket it could leak again.
Everything I've ever read about the first generation 4Matic system says to steer clear of it - it is overly complicated, prone to problems and very expensive to fix. The second generation 4Matic, found on W210 and newer E Class cars, is much simpler and much more reliable.
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Jonathan 2011 Mazda2 2000 E320 4Matic Wagon 1994 C280 (retired) |
#9
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Quote:
I see now
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
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Three other concerns regarding a "wagon".
1] The rear side windows often rust at their bottom edge. To check: remove the rear access panels and peel up the rubber moulding. 2] Self leveling [rear only] To check: Eng off, load about 300 lbs in rear. When engine is turned on, the rear should rise to unloaded weight. 3] Rear Seat Back release. To check: Remove head restraint. Raise rear seat cushion [pivots back to front], pull top of seat back forward and down so it rests on the 2 pins of the seat cushion. Pulling up on the red handle at bottom of seat cushion releases it. These pins are often broken or the seat cushion brackets are bent. There are many posts on these three. Bob PS Wagon has cargo area of 6' with seat cushion folded and 6" more with cushion removed. |
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I would venture a guess that there is a much better chance of finding a 94 already fixed than one that 'still' has the bad harness.
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Answer
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IMO the odds are , if it is for sale the vehicle will need a harness + three - seven other issues. A good PPI = Pre Purchase Inspection is worth every penny. |
#13
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Wiring harness:
http://tinyurl.com/8nx7v http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M104WireHarness The MB E-class owner's bible suggests that shielding the affected wires with taped pieces of pliable plastic (e.g. from a factory coolant bottle) can be an effective repair. That seems worth trying if the insulation breakdown is limited, but I've seen photos of spectacular general degradation: http://tinyurl.com/24m42n Nevertheless, there's no sign of it yet in my 1996 Coupé, which is checked for this problem at every service. One overlooked source of repeated problems with a head gasket is that some get done without skimming. My mechanic says that the heads all warp and he's never found one that didn't need it. Here's the article referred to in an earlier post: http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic100345.html Last edited by Roger Jones; 05-24-2008 at 08:20 AM. |
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