Convert to conventinal shocks from auto leveling
 

I have an 86 2.3-16. I have lots of problem with my auto-leveling system that I think it is better to give it up all together and convert it to the old conventional shocks and spring coils type.

There was an old thread that I read awhile ago from MBDOC he had mentioned that the coil springs have to be replaced besides the shocks.

My question is could any one know the atxact name brand and model whether I should go with Bilstein or Koni and where can I get them. I just hate to order the wrong things and end up with frustration.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Alex

Their web sites don't show too much but request a catalog from Beker (www.bekkers.com) and Performance Parts (www.************************). They have the suspension parts you are looking for and much more.

While you are replacing the springs and shocks, think about lowering it. Big difference in handling.

Thanks for the response there Jim. But lowering the car!!! Are you kidding me

Alex

No I am not kidding and I am probably older than you. Here is a link to a picture of Robby Ackerman's 2.3-16 that is lowered like mine. http://mbca.org/virginia/images/robby19.jpg

Convert 16V to conventional rear shocks
 

I just did what you are seeking to my car and am extremely happy with the result. By accident while researching conversion of my E420 to 500 suspension specs I found a guy who worked out a conversion for his 16V.

No need for the "blocker plate" for the hydraulic pump drive. There is a "key" that links the pump drive to the camshaft. Simply remove this key and cap the lines in the rear. The advantage of leaving the hydraulics "in place" is appearance of "stock", labor-savings of not removing all the lines, and installation of the blocker plate requires a new valve cover gasket.

As far as the actual changes "aft", the hydraulic struts were replaced with OEM 190E 2.6 SportLine shocks and the sway bar with an Eibach 16V rear sway bar. The result produces a little more rear camber but it is easily compensated for with 40 psi tire pressure. The handling is great with sharper turn-in/less understeer. Needless to say it was much cheaper than the ridiculously complex and costly hydraulic self-leveling setup.