^ Why use Freeze 12 when R12 is available for decent prices these days? You will be evacuating and flushing the system anyway....

And no, you need a proper evacuation machine. That won't cut it.

Reply
 

Okay, so I've taken the online 609 test so I can purchase R-12. I found some specs online that show the capacity of a 1991 w124 to be 1000 grams, that converts to 38 oz of freon I'm guessing?

I will get it properly evacuated.

So the seals for the expansion port, get those from Mercedes? Do they need to be special for R-12?

Thanks for the reply.

The O-ring kit at Fastlane should work:
http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1990-Mercedes--Benz-300e--Base-Climate--Control&yearid=1990%40%401990&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6194%3AEB|613%3AED|1000001 3%3ASM|20%3AMBC|1507%40%40300E+Base&catid=242213%40%40Climate+Control&subcatid=330700@@A%2FC+O-Ring+Kit&mode=PD

Get the cans off Craigslist for about $15-20 each...so a couple cans should do the trick. You'll extend the life of the compressor and have cooler vent temps. What's more to say!?

You need to replace the drier since the system was exposed to the air, PLUS you are changing refridgerant. Replace ALL seals including the one behind A/C manifold. All seals are easy to do....Since you gotta flush the system regardless, all lines are off anyway! ;)

When the system has been evac'd, leave it with vacuum for a few hours and make sure its still holding when you come back. That'll check for leaks.

Thanks..... Again!
 

So I hate to more questions, just want to make sure I am doing this right. I ordered the o-ring kit, thanks so much.

My plan is:

All my freon is leaked out already so before I install the new dryer and evaporator, I'm going to disconnect all lines, flush it out and drain the compressor's oil. (I'm assuming the best way is to just disconnect the lines and let it come out??) Didn't know if there was a drain or not for it.

Then I'm going to replace all seals, vacuum for a hour or so to get all moisture out and check for leaks.

Lastly, I'm going to fill it back with Frigi Quiet (8 oz) I figured maybe 4 in the compressor, 2 in the dryer and 2 in the evaporator?

Does this sound like a good game plan?

One more question- I couldn't find if the o-ring kit I purchased includes the seals behind the compressor to the suction and output line? I found these two parts and am wondering if that is what I need to purchase but not sure:

W0133-1642218 Manifold Gasket set?
W0133-1628974 Manifold Seal Kit?

Thank-you so much for your help!

It should include it, yes. Follow the article I posted earlier, it includes links to the documentation for oil refill. "flush (not literally)" the compressor using the new oil and turn by hand. Do it a number of times then refill using the specific amount.

Finally putting it all back together
 

So, I've got all the pods replaced and ready to start putting things back together but have found 2 vacuum lines that I for the life of me I don't remember unhooking and can't figure out where they go. I've included two pictures, the one on the passenger's side comes from the battery box area and goes through a air filter before coming into the firewall where you see it.

The other is on the drivers side and comes out with the cylinder lock vacuum lines.

Any idea? I've tried to find a vacuum diagram and not having much luck.

Thank-you!

Second photo looks like the vacuum cable for the cluster. No idea about the first though sorry :confused:

Vacuum Lines
 

Finally found a schematic. They are both vents, supposed to be open.

Bump
 

for "connerm".

When people say they built the W124 around the evaporator, they're not kidding!

1995 E300d evaporator core, reattaching issue
 

I have worked on my 300d and replace the evaportaor core ALL day long. I put the core back in and the dash is up... I can not figure out how to re-attach the evaporator core tubes that go through the firewall and attach back in the engine area. It takes all I have to just reach the 2 conecting points and stick them up to the tubes (using a screw driver and pliers) coming into the engine area from the core. Then some how in the minature area I am suposed to screw it together. I can't see any possible way to get a screw driver in that space? Any ideas? Do I need to take some of the engine apart in order put one screw in? I am about to go crazy!

Thanks for any ideas.

wha?
 

Are you talking about attaching the evaporator to the expansion valve??

I had a friend come over
 

I have another friend mechanic with small hands come over and he reached down and attache the 2 pipes coming thru into the engine area.

We were able to put the whole car back together!!! 18+ hours. What a crazy job. Funny thing is this is the first repair I have ever done to a car. I truly know nothing about cars. My friend was amazing to give up his entire weekend to help me.

Thanks for the author of this blog, the meticulous descriptions and pictures were invaluable! What a great job you did! I owe you :)

:)

The only thing couldn't re-attach was the allen bolt that opens the air flow to the center vent. I guess I was supposed to attach that before dash and counsel was put back together. The bolt won't reach the connection... Oh well. I do have an amazing appreciation for how well made these Mercedes cars are made - so many tricky little bolts and clips.

Only time will tell if everything is sealed with no leaks! I pray it is!

You need to use a hook tool to bring the "connection" (female threaded receptacle) to the allen headed bolt and, while holding the connection with the hook tool, start threading the bolt in the connection by turning the bolt with your allen wrench. It may take a couple of times but I assure you it can be done with the dash in place. Mark

great job!

I'm trying to find the part number for the fog light indicator bulb. In post number 1 he lists 2 numbers. I can't get either of these to work. The EPCnet number is 14 digits long, typically the epc numbers are 10 digits long and in this sequence 124 xxx xx xx. Can anyone help decipher these number?

___N. lights
______1. Nozzle lights and light for illumination of headlight control N000000001061 x 4 (EPCNet 124.290 54 395 158. Also A0008250094) “air nozzle lighting and rotary switch lighting”
______2. Foglamp indicator bulb: A0025440194 (EPCNet 124.290 54 640 11)




The one for the fog light indicator is in the center of the switch shaft, you pull off the knob and it should be right there in the middle behind the orange "dot" in the knob. EPC 124.128, group 54, subgroup 640, callout 11, part # 002-544-01-94.

Thanks Dave

1995 300D dash lights
 

I just replaced my evaporator core. I did finally get the extension valve reconnected - ah!

The problem I just found out is that none of my dash lights work at all? I have know idea why... I have No lights to any of my dash, or even the gear shifter (automatic). Anyone know where I should look to see what I need to plug in? I don't want to have to take the whole dash and counsel back out unless there is absolutely no other opption. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Matt

ps. AC works great!

Excellent write-up.

Thanks for the great original write up. I got mine out today.

Recycled
 

for new member

Great!
 

Thanks man,for the very detailed pics and elaborate write-up....
Could not for the life of me figure it out myself,this has been a great help!!!

This is a great post. It helped me to replace the bulbs at the gear selector and A/c control's. This site is the (bomb) a slang term meaning very good. Thanks

Many thanks Boxford! My father in law is a mechanic working on my 1992 400E and what you did here was an enormous help. I'm grateful for the time you put into creating this post. Thanks!