1997 E320 Wont Start
 

My 97 E320 wont start. It cranks and cranks but wont turn over... Is it a fuse or something? Please help me and give me detials on what and where to look at.

Crank Position Sensor located on the top of the trans bell housing on the drivers side where trans connects to engine. Can see it from the top peeking between engine and firewall with flashlight.

Part available on "buy parts" tab above.

You've checked it has fuel already, right?

Thanks, I will try changing that today!!! yep it has almost a full tank!!! I hope this works. I have spent over a thousand dollars working on it now.

I would do a fuel pressure test first....

You initally made it seem as if this was a recent and sudden problem, which apparently it isn't.

If you've spent $1000, someone surely has already considered the CPS; listen to Arthur and tell us the whole story the first time out and you'll get better advice.

Might want to spend another GRAND and then do a 30 sec FP test..


The point we are making here , is we are giving you the FIRST things that COULD cause your problem, without knowing anything except your complaint of no start.
So, we know that any engine won't start if it has no spark or no gas, so that is where we have to start w/diagnosis...

CPS is a common cause for 'NO Spark" condition , and no FP is a common cause for" No Gas" condition..and BOTH are common causes for a No Start complaint.

So, where did the first G-Note go ?????

The reason I mention Fuel Pressure is b/c you can take the cap off the test port and press the little valve in with your finger and see if there is Fuel Pressure there [ use a rag]..if there is NOT, then you can have a blocked fuel filter, a bad fuel pump, a resticted line , a blown fuse, a bad FP relay , etc etc etc...so, you see why testing is the first choice..then you can save that extra Grand for the CD. If you have pressure with the finger test [ a gage is better for the test], then you kinow you probably don't have Spark and the Crank sensor should be tested....

I used to assume if a guy spent that much $$$$ on diagnosis that these test have already been done, but the last few years of hangin' ' round here, I have realized that I was way wrong on that conceptual thinking and have learned to assume NOTHING..
We have seen so many OVP relays changed AFTER the $2K amout was reached , that we realize it is quite alright and acceptable to just shotgun/parts change today and that when all else fails , read the instructions...
So...again,..my first test would be FP...mainly b/c it cost nothing, is easy to do, and will tell you plenty of info to lead you in the right direction of proper diagnosis before changing a part.
If you are no so inclined for these simple test, then I would call the guy you gave the Grand to and ask if these test were done and what was the results of the test??? He owes you at least that...... :)
...or did yuou shotgun it yourself...????

Where is the test port to check the fuel pressure?

It is on the top of the fuel rail... unscrew the brass cap and there is a valve in there . just like you would see on a bike inner tube.

I am so clueless on where the fuel rail is... under the hood or near the gas tank... I think im in over my head.

does your security system have it disabled. use the key in the drivers door to lock and unlock the drivers door. make sure the door is fully closed when you do it.

I wouldn't think the security would have anything to do with it because the car will crank but it kinda just wants to mellow out after cranking for a while.

The fuel rail is the distribution pipe for the injectors.
I agree that this is all too new for you and you may not want to be fooling with gas pressures..bring it to someone or ask a friend to do a fuel pressure test..buy the tool.

And the security system would not be the problem b/c that just locks out the Starter circuit.

See the guy at the garage told me it could be a relay switch and he searched and searched for it and couldn't find one to change out or to check.

Okay, I checked with the guy that worked on it and he changed my fuel filter and pump out cause the pump was going bad and now I checked the fuel pressure and its good.

It could very well be the fuel pump relay...just like I said..that comes AFTER you see if you have fuel pressure ..if you have NO FP , then I would look at the relay..but if you do, then don't waste your time looking at the relay..see where I am going here.
Ask the guy if he did a FP test..that is the first thing you want to know...you still want to throw parts at the thing. Get a FP test gauge and have someone check for Fuel Pressure... if you can;t do it, get someone who can.
At least you will then know where to look........or we will even tell you th next step....I am not going to recommend a relay before I know you need one ..it is against all the thinking an logic I preach here...........

I understand where your going, and he did check the fuel pressure and its good... Thats why I am puzzled on why it isn't starting... Could it be that crank sensor?

yup.....it could.

So I guess I am going to drive down to the dealer tomorrow and pick up the crank sensor... I mean if that doesn't fix it, I will just take the part back... I am so frustrated with this car... all I want to do it get in it and drive it.

If they will take it back, sounds like a plan.

If you had a meter , you could just unplug it and see if it gives out a signal when the car cranks over...but changing it will tell too...

Most dealers will not accept return of an electrical part once it has been installed (and yes, they can tell). You will want to be fairly certain that you actually need the part.

the security system allows the engine to crank but the engine won't fire. ..did you at least do the excercise of making sure the security system is disabled

Are you sure about this? I've never engaged it on my W210 but on other cars I think I was not even able to crank when security was enabled???

hay have you checked the fuel injector pump beacause i had a problem liek that before with one of my other cars and that got it worken againbeacuse it would try to turn over but nothin would happem

Good day MB gurus, I have a 1993 300e-2.8 which I think has a similar engine with the subject car in this thread (am I correct?) if so, what values should I be looking for if I do this test on my car? I read in some thread 800 omhs, is this correct? Am I looking for voltage or continuity? Sorry for the newbie questions.

since its sunday and tomorrow's my only chance to buy the CPS, I want to spend some time with the car just to check if its got a bad one, though I have also read in some thread that the CPS can pass a test but still be bad, I am just hoping to confirm it if it does at all. I dont want to pass any chance I can get to make it run again as I miss the car sorely! (and the inlaws are getting agitated from my borrowing their car, they want me to just send the car to a shop to get it over with :mad:)

I can confirm based from experience that this can happen.

bigdaddywoo
 

where the cps located on the 97 e320?

bigdaddywoo
 

where is the cps located on 97 mercedes e320? need help fast!!!

I just bought 97 Mercedes e320. im trying to fix up. the guy I bought it from said someone ran a diagnostic and told him it had a burnt valve and needed new motor, hopefully this isn't correct, I have been tring to crank but it sounds like fuel isn't getting to the injectors. I am missing owners manual and fuse chart for all 3 areas,

the car is sitting off balance with the tire under fuel tank all the way flat, I have added premium from gas can and fuel is reaeding low in cluster, I was wondering if sending unit reading could be inaccurate due to imbalance from tire,

also I put battery in and something is draining it , when im not trying to crank, I was wondering if the car phone could be doing this and what to do?

thankyou any help is greatly appreciated

The fuel tank on these cars is in the trunk just behind the rear seat back not under the car. The fuel pump / filter is under the car, just in front of the left rear wheel ( there is a plastic cover over the pump / filter ) .

A burnt valve won't keep the engine from running. Did they say what cylinder has the burnt valve? If not they are probably just guessing.

We need more information, what is the history for the past year of this car?

First, after being in, on and around this forum for some time, it has become apparent that technical/engineering/mechanical skills of forum members varies greatly. That said, after having my cars to many, many different indy shops, I've come to realize that the same concept holds for both indy and dealership mechanics/techs. Read the following thread carefully, notice how the dealership was close to solving his "no start" problem but in the end, it was a friend with encyclopedic knowledge of the W210 that saved the day.

Perhaps his friend could offer consulting services to the dealership on an hourly rate, no?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/351289-w210-dies-freeway-cranks-no-start-2.html

first order would be to verify if the injectors are getting constant power when the ignition is keyed on.

Then test then with an LED for pulsing as the engine cranks.

Similarly check the coil packs. Just like our Dr Bert had this problem on his W210, which was pointing to the failed master relay junction - as a member of this forum told him to check.