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Where to go next with Misfiring 300TE
Before posting give a quick read of whats in this post please it will take only a minute at most!! I get too many of the same responses.
Car is 1988 300TE with 87,000 miles right now. Compression within 1bar at 185 +- 5 Parts replaced: * OVP * Coolant Temperature Sensor * Injector's+Seals * Non-Resistor OEM Bosch H9DCO's * Ignition Wires * Distributor+Cap * Fuel Filter * Valve Stem Seals * Fuel Distributor * Ignition Coil * Fuel Pressure Regulator * O2 sensor * EHA Valve * Smoke tested for vacuum leaks Where should I go from here? I have no problems accelerating and it only exists at idle. I had my local mechanic smoke test it today so vacuum leaks are off the list!! There is no check engine light on, or any error codes. Rpm's bounce about 50 at idle....It can't be mounts as sometimes it idles perfectly fine, but other times its horrible....very variable...and along with the rpm's bouncing....its not related. You can see the engine is shaking + surging when you pull the hood and doesn't sound as happy as it could be. He mentioned that I have a leaky thermostat housing, but that shouldn't be causing a misfire as my coolant temperature is fine....but I've ordered the gasket to fix that soon anyway. |
It may be normal for your engine, the early 103 engines have camshafts with more duration that the later cams and do not idle as smooth. If you have ruled out everything else you may have to live with it unless you want to spend a ton of cash to replace the cam and followers.
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Its an actual misfire, I'm pretty sure its not normal. I have spoken to other people (iwrock for instance) who also has an 88 TE and his idles smooth as butter.
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If you are certain that it is a misfire then I would tend to think it is ignition related. Have you actually had the ignition checked with a scope to visually verify the coil output and oscillation? The only things that seems to be missing from that impressive list is the crank position sensor, ignition module, and the harness from the ign module to the coil. I've only seen that harness bad once but it was a real ball buster to diagnose. If you can put your hands on a known good ign. module it would be worth it to try. The sensor is a long shot but you've seemed to have eliminated all of the "short shots"
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You replaced all the parts I thought might have been bad... :confused:
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I will check coil output (coil is new though) and oscillation. I was going to do the CPS but I decided to go ahead and get her smoked before I spent any more money. |
Have you tried taking it to Mr. MB Motors in Tarzana?
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...Don't believe him at all. The idle is horrible so I was kinda surprised based on his reputation. |
Could it be an exhaust issue. Like a back pressure problem?
Just guessing here :) Or maybe even a worn wiper arm under the fuel/air meter under the throttle body. |
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You ought to take it back. |
I don't know if your model fell into the engine harness problems, I think the '88 was before that, but you might check it out.
Ed |
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As I said, I am not sure if your model year was in the years with the faulty harness. When they did fail, it was the interior insulation, the exterior looked excellent.
Ed |
The 103 engines do not typically have harness problems. The harness is typically only an issue on the EFI cars (104, 119), not the CIS cars. Then again, anything is possible.:rolleyes:
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I plan to do the fuel pressure first once I can nab the bosch adapter to test it via the distributor. I can find cheap used EZL's on ebay for about $10-$30 so its worth a shot. I'd buy the crank pos sensor new though for sure. Just waiting to move house so I can get back on track... |
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