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-   -   430E Throttle Body Actuator (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/227984-430e-throttle-body-actuator.html)

WGB MB 07-18-2008 10:44 AM

430E Throttle Body Actuator
 
I own a 1994 430E and had trouble with deceleration. The car is drivable for about a mile before it seems to lose ability to hold speed, it then decelerates completely.

The diagnostic said Electronic Throttle Body Actuator and Cruise Control Module. Numbers are 1245453632 and 0001419425 - I believe they're part numbers.

We can't afford to have both parts replaced.
- Does the car need the cruise control module even though we don't use the cruise control?
- Anyone know which part it could be by the description of the problem?
- Would it operate fine without the Cruise Control Module if only the Electronic Throttle Body Actuator was replaced?
-Is there any way to discern which part needs replacing? Thanks!

mbdoc 07-18-2008 10:53 AM

99% OF the time the throttle actuator is the problem....there are good quality remans available from Beckmann technology

deanyel 07-18-2008 10:53 AM

A good place to start would be the correct model information - no such thing as a 94 430E, maybe an E420? I would then build the DIY code reader and learn how to read the codes yourself - just to be sure what you're getting, then post your results here.

WGB MB 07-18-2008 11:43 AM

E420 Throttle Body Actuator
 
To deanyel and M.B.DOC: Thank you for your speedy replies! Sorry for posting 430 vs 400 - had long night.

To All: The car is an E420 with without ASR.

Would a faulty cruise ctrl module cause it to decelerate when being driven without cruise ctrl activated? In other words: would a faulty cruise control module affect the way the car functions even if we are not using the cruise control?

I'm trying to find out if i even need to consider fixing the cruise ctrl module.

Lastly, can I save some money by ordering the Beckmann technology reman? I understand the ElectrThrttle Bdy Actuatr is quite expensive.

deanyel 07-18-2008 02:53 PM

Those are both expensive parts and it's unlikely you need both. I'd say you need more diagnosis. It would be very helpful to know exactly which fault codes you are getting. BTW the part number for the throttle actuator is incorrect - that's for an ASR car. I believe the non-ASR ends in 9325, but again I don't think you should start buying parts yet.

Larry Delor 07-20-2008 11:54 PM

If you should decide that you need a new ETA, be sure and buy a new gasket. Also, there is a rubber tube that attaches towards the firewall....it will probably break. Be careful with the plastic tubing (vacuum lines) - they get brittle as well.
Take a picture, so you remember exactly where the springs go.
Once you get the new one, plug it in first, and turn on the ignition to verify it's not DOA.

Good luck with your diagnosis... A CC module I would try one from a junkyard - An ETA I would definitely get a rebuilt one.

duxthe1 07-21-2008 01:24 AM

I'd agree that more diagnosis is necessary, although typically the problem that cause those codes are in the throttle actuator, as MB Doc said. However there are actual values that need to be checked to confirm that it is a failed actuator and not adjustments that are out of whack which can also put the system in limp mode. Considering the price of throwing parts at it, it's worth it to pay a shop with the SDS to make a proper diagnosis.

JimF 07-21-2008 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WGB MB (Post 1913385)
I own a 1994 400E and had trouble with deceleration. The car is drivable for about a mile before it seems to lose ability to hold speed, it then decelerates completely.
Thanks!

Check out Menu#24 on my pages for typical scenarios and DTCs that you will measure.

Also sources to get your ETA rebuilt.

As others have suggested, get the codes and post them here.

tivoliman 07-21-2008 11:33 PM

The job is do-able
 
Replacing the ETA is accomplished in several hours. I just did it - over several weekends - needed to buy the tools (5mm Allen wrench - I put at end of my ratchet)

To remove the MAF - I used a very long (like 18 to 24 inches) to release the "hose clamps" around the black rubber connector - between the MAF and the ETA.

With the clamps loose - the MAF comes off - nothing else holding it.

Then you see the four Allen screws. - they come all the way out.

Remove as much of the breather hose as you can - there are three parts. Twist and tug and pray - but the the ETA will just come out - removing the intake manifold is not required.

Here is why you need the new breather hoses (yes fast lane has them), attach the first hose to the ETA, and twist and push to get it back in under the manifold. Well, with old rubber - the breather hose brake - did for me. Well the new hose comes with pliable rubber. getting the gasket back in is the challenge I was presented. I "slid it in" after the ETA was within the manifold - I feared riping it.

I also replaced the rubber connector between the ETA and the MAF.

While the MAF is out - clean it as JimF suggest on his site.

With the ETA replaced - the car needs to "learn" it was replaced. This is accomplished by disconnecting the battery for "a while" (30 minutes) then turn the key to the second position, but don't start the car - let it sit for 120 seconds.

poof - you are done.

With a 95 E420 - I also needed to change the wire harness.

good luck

This post did not address if the ETA should be replaced - test it as other suggest. JimF suggests how to repair it yourself - I went to the dealer, and received a discount.

WGB MB 07-22-2008 03:27 PM

Possibly changing diagnosis
 
Thanks for the responses!!! I really appreciate this invaluable info!!!!

I took a look at the wiring and took it to another shop for another diagnosis. Wiring around the actuator seems good to go. However, at the shop, they cleared the codes and ran another diagnostic and are saying there is now a possibility, the crank sensor needs to be replaced. How can I tell the difference between having to replace the crank sensor and the throttle actuator?

I had one dealership tell me the problem was cruise ctrl sensor and ETA and now another shop is now telling me they don't think it was either one, they thinks it could be the crank sensor. Both ran diagnostics. I'm now really confused.

Any idea how I can tell the difference? The car will idle forever when not being driven, but loses power and decelerates to nothing after driving it for 5-10 minutes.

deanyel 07-22-2008 04:47 PM

Your best bet is to build the code reader, learn how to read and clear codes yourself, and post the results here.

JimF 07-22-2008 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WGB MB (Post 1917130)
they cleared the codes and ran another diagnostic and are saying there is now a possibility, the crank sensor needs to be replaced. How can I tell the difference between having to replace the crank sensor and the throttle actuator?

If the Crankshaft (Crksft) was bad, the car wouldn't run.

Take an ohmmeter and measure the resistance; It should be around 1000 +/- 200 ohms (if I remember correctly). It plugs into the Distributer Ignition Module (Menu#5) via connection labelled "2". Unseat the connection and measure between the inside and outside connector. Flex the wire and connection to see if the reading is intermittant. If solid, you can say the Crksft sensor is ok. Not seen one go bad yet!


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