Instructions for setting up injector timing
 

Could someone post the procedure on how to set up the fuel injection timing "from scratch". That is if you were re-building a 300D turbo engine and had the injector timing mechanism off, the timing chain off, etc. I, along with a couple other people would be interested in learning how to do this.
thanks

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/7493-injector-timing.html?highlight=injector+timing

Could I get a copy of this emailed to me please. Also please email a copy to:

rtc9@home.com

thanks

I can't quite figure out how to post the .pdf files from the CD and I think what your after comprises several seperate jobs. I try to e-mail you off line.

Bob D.

Once you understand, it's really quite simple.

You align the camshaft timing marks (mark on stand with notch on washer) and TDC on balancer with pointer on block. You don't have to worry about any marks on the injection pump chain sprocket. Once everything is together with tensioner installed, and both these marks aligned, you align the timing mark on the injection pump with the notch in the splined area. With the injection pump aligned, you simply slip the pump into place without moving the engine and camshaft markers and you have your coarse timing accomplished.

Then snug the injection pump bolts and go through "start of delivery" timing procedure with a drip tube. If you have a sensor for you timing light AND can get the timing close enough to start the engine, you can do your fine adjustment with the timing light.

I hope this is clear and helpful,

Larry,

You got it covered except one thing. After the cam and crank timing is verified at TDC one must turn the engine to 24deg BTDC for the installation of pump as you described.

Take the spring and small plunger from delivery valve #1 on the pump. Unscrew the center of the delivery element, NOT the two nuts holding he assembly in the pump. Put the element shell back on and attach the test pipe. Fill the fuel filter manually and loosen the bleed screw on the top to get a "gravity feed". Move the pump back and forth until the fuel "just" drips from the test pipe. Drip timing the pump is THE single most subjective adjustment on the car. The goal is to get 1 drip per second.

A very important note...the mark on the injection pump should be aligned and the pump installed at 24 degrees before TCD. You really need THE BOOK...not Chilton...not Haynes, but the M-B book.
Good Luck
Randy D.

As to drip timing.

I do not believe that the pump element check valve can be removed on most late pumps. If I'm right one can not get good drip timing results. We purchased the high pressure method about twenty years ago so I can't say for sure. We also have the Snap-On timing adapter so that timing and rpm can be checked with a light.

The high pressure method just uses about 400psi to overcome the pump element check valve so beginning of delivery can be tested like it was done with a drip timer.

thanks ya'll - I hope not to have to use this procedure anytime soon but was curious to see how to do it. Also, I hope this helps carrameow get his 300D set back up.

Thanks Steve for catching me before it led someon astray. I now have a flat forehead after hitting it. You would, of course, after installing timing chain components in correct correlation with each other, then turn the engine to the timing setting for that engine before installing properly set pump.

Have a great day,

Don't worry about it, I gave instructions to Richard privately and told him all about how to tell number one from number four. It wasn't till I was trying to explain it again that I realized my error. I guess I had never thought about it but that is one thing unique about five cylinder engines. They do not have a comparable piston up at the same time like 4, 6, and 8 cylinders do.