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#1
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brake bleeding alternate method?
recently replaced the rear rotors,pads and rebuilt calipers.now i want to bleed at all 4 wheels but both front caliper bleed screws are broken off.is there an alternate method to get the air out?brakes are quite spongy now
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michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon |
#2
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You can use the line fitting at the caliper , but you will not get all the air out..
The best you can do is to open that line fitting after taking the pads out...then push the piston all the way in from the pad side ..that will clear most of it. Then tighten the fitting Then put the pads back in and you are done. The only real fix is to get new bleeders, but getting the old out is tricky and most wind up having to relpace the calipers...but my trick works for a car you don't want to put the $$$ into and still have some descent brakes. Next time , soalkthe bleeders overnight in PB Blaster when you know you are going to do brake work ..[ yeah, I know .. they were already like that and it musta been the last guy, right ??}
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A Dalton |
#3
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thanks for your reply.actually i broke off both front bleeders.they look original but both calipers are in perfect working order and replacement would run approx $300 cdn.so if i hear you right push the caliper piston in till it bottoms.this should push most of the air and fluid out and back toward the master cylinder.ill give it a try and thanks again for tip
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michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon |
#4
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You're simply fantasizing--wishful thinking--that there's another way besides getting the bleed screws fixed. There isn't.
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Kent Christensen Albuquerque '07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster Two BMW motorcycles |
#5
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No, you do not want the fluid/air going back toward the master..you want it to go out the fitting ..it will not get it all out, but it will get most b/c ypou are bottoming out the piston....done it many times in emergency sutuations.....but the Correct way is good bleeders or replace caliper...
That's all...
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A Dalton |
#6
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i may try drilling the old bleeders out when i have some time.this will probably destroy the thread.perhaps a brass insert tapped with appropriate thread for new bleeders.this appears to be the method employed by the reconditioners
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michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon |
#7
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Can you retap the holes for the bleed screws to a bigger size?
Or get a reverse drill bit and try to get the old bleed screw out after soaking in PB Blaster. I bet a machine shop might be able to get the old bleed screw out. I have no clue just giving ideas.
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1976 240D 1976 240D parts car 1970 220D daily driver |
#8
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i employed a variety of methods for removal wd40,torch,easyouts and drilling.we are talking about metal to metal fusion here.these are girling calipers.great design but for the bleeders
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michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon |
#9
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They are difficult, but they can be done if they are not real bad... The best bet is to remove the caliper so you are working on a bench w/vice ..and the easy out that works best on them is NOt the reverse screw type..it is the tappered square type.. They grab very well and do not expand the plug as much. It takes fineese......
Many a capliper bites the dust b/c of a broken bleeder ..bleeders are not as strong as they look b/c they are hollow...so pre- soaking is a must on old ones.......specially those skinny ones we all hate.
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A Dalton |
#10
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You can vacuum bleed with a hand held one available at sears or or a bleeder that hooks up to an air compressor.
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
#11
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A potential "fail" scenario; You get the remains of the old bleeder out, but you had to drill so large that the threads are gibbled and the new bleeder wobbles around in the thread and does not seal.
Never fear! You can bleed it using the new bleeder. Then, remove the new bleeder. The brake fluid seeping through the system will preserve the airless state of the caliper for a few moments. Drop in a ball bearing of appropriate size. Hold it there with a short bolt, same size thread as the bleeder (short enough that it does not foul the wheel). The ball will seal against the taper in the caliper. It is a really ugly solution, but it is very effective. If you have to bleed it again in the future, the ball can be removed with a magnet. My Jaguar has been running for two years this way. Andrew |
#12
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thanks Andrew.your spot on.an attempt at drilling out and retapping was close but no cigar as the brake fluid was leaking out very slowly.im going to drill it larger and tap.screw in a brass fitting with a cap.ill report back.BTW i like the ball bearing idea
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michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon |
#13
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On my old Ferrari I stripped out some of the bleeders in the Aluminum brake cylinder. My favorite machinist drilled them out and tapped them for a pipe thread and then installed a pipe fitting with a micro sized bleeder on it. Worked like a charm and saved the cost of God only knows how much for a Ferrari brake cylinder.
This should work with any brake device, providing you can find the kit. He had them in stock. Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#14
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I use speed bleeders on my Porsche 944. They work great. I like pedal bleeding rather then a motive power bleeder. These do the trick and make it a one person job. I got mine at a local speed shop. A quick search yielded this: http://www.speedbleeder.com/
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Michael Southern California/Santa Monica 1986 MB 190D 2.5, 5 Speed Black and Palomino "Mordechai" 1985 Porsche 928S (32V), 5 Speed 1980 Porsche 928 (16V), 5 Speed |
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