Rebuilt transmissions from ADSITCO - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gsxr · #16 08-16-2008, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 575Maranello

I would like to clarify that the tranny did not fail, it makes a noise when it is in reverse otherwise, it drives fine but the mechanic said that if the condition persists it needs to be rebuilt.

My question is: why is it making noise, why did the car need new lifters, R&R cylinder head, cam shafts, gaskets, you name it at a cost of $3,400 when my car has been religiously maintained every 4K miles? It was done this week.

Could it be that it is a stop and go car driven slowly by my wife for just a few miles a day? I am at a loss here.

Orazio,

Well, a head gasket job is not uncommon after 15 years. New lifters seems odd, and new camshafts sounds very suspicious (camshafts almost never need replacement).

But the few miles per day driving... that is brutal on any car. The oil never gets up to temp, condensation never evaporates, etc. Even 4000 mile service intervals are too long with dino oil, if driven like this. I would immediately (at next service) switch the engine and transmission to fully synthetic fluids, which better cope with severe service conditions. And try to take the car on at least a 20-30 minute drive, a couple of times per month, to get everything up to operating temp.

About the transmission... drive it until it blows up. Seriously. And when it does, don't go anywhere that wants $5k to do the work (especially if they soaked you for new camshafts... I'd want to get the old cam & lifters and see why they needed replacement!). I bet you could find an MB dealer to do the tranny for ~$4k and you'll have a nationwide, 2/24 warranty as well.

FWIW, my 1987 300D is nearing 300kmi on the original tranny. It's been re-sealed twice (first at 150k, and again at 250k) but all the internals are original. I've been using synthetic ATF almost since I bought it (at ~190k). So far, it still shifts fine...

Oracle12345 · #17 08-16-2008, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 575Maranello

I would like to clarify that the tranny did not fail, it makes a noise when it is in reverse otherwise, it drives fine but the mechanic said that if the condition persists it needs to be rebuilt.

My question is: why is it making noise, why did the car need new lifters, R&R cylinder head, ram shafts, gaskets, you name it at a cost of $3,400 when my car has been religiously maintained every 4K miles? It was done this week.

Please notice that we bought the car new in 1995 and the mechanic is a well established MB only independent dealer, we have been going there for almost 15 years.

Could it be that it is a stop and go car driven slowly by my wife for just a few miles a day? I am at a loss here.

Orazio
1995 E320
1993 500E

Your mechanic could be snow balling you on the other stuff to pedal for some business, just a thought

Many mechanics are know to snowball people who do not know jack about cars and pad the bill with stuff that doesn't need to be done.

Since I know about cars I know when something needs to be done and when someone is snowballing me.

tivoliman · #18 02-27-2009, 10:16 AM

There's oil leaking from the torque converter area (through the 'grate' at the bottom)

This causes me great embarrassment, as I leave a mark where ever I park.

The car (1995 E420) has 195,000 miles, and the transmission make slight noise near the shifter - otherwise trans runs smooth. (I bought the car 7,000 miles ago from a dealer, I have no (zero) knowledge of history)

so - what should I do?

Get leak fixed?, ignore the leak? use Stop leak stuff

In this tread, I liked the suggestion of just running the transmission until it dies.

gsxr · #19 02-27-2009, 10:21 AM

Try a small amount of stop-leak product, with 200kmi on the clock, you don't have much to lose. Then run it until it dies, and have it rebuilt by Jonathan Hodges at Blue Ridge MB.

Also, make sure you are not using the newer Dexron-VI spec ATF, which is thinner. Stick with Dexron-III or Dexron-II spec fluid if you can find it. Red Line makes a "high temp" ATF which is even thicker. One of these could also help slow the leak a little.

But whatever you do, don't give a penny to ADSITCO!

Dcraig · #20 02-27-2009, 10:55 AM

I too have a sound in reverse. Transmissions can go out anytime after 130,000 depending on a lot of factors. Mine started slipping at 150,000, now I'm at 180,000, so it's time for a new one.

I'm going here. $1750 installed, 2 year, 24,000 mile warranty. I've bought parts from them before and they're great. I told him I beat my transmission so it better be made well and he told me to beat on it all I want.

And I think if you wait until it self-destructs you'll take out a lot of other important (expensive) parts. If you call he can tell you what the sound in reverse is from. They ship all over.

http://www.mercedesdismantlers.com/

ps2cho · #21 02-27-2009, 02:48 PM

I don't know a whole lot about transmissions...

What would be considered good maintenance on a transmission? I have 92k on mine right now. All I have done myself in the last 30k miles is replace the fluid a number of times...Is there anything else to do on it?

I would love to have it last at least another 60k miles.

gsxr · #22 02-27-2009, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

What would be considered good maintenance on a transmission? I have 92k on mine right now. All I have done myself in the last 30k miles is replace the fluid a number of times...Is there anything else to do on it?

I would love to have it last at least another 60k miles.

The tranny fluid & filter should be changed at least every 30kmi, or under severe service conditions, 15kmi. I change mine every 25k simply because it's easy to know when it's due (100, 125, 150, etc). When you drain the fluid, make sure you also drain the torque converter so you get ALL the fluid out. Most cars do not have a drain on the converter, but Mercedes do... a very nice feature. Mark the balancer so you can easily find the drain plug the next time (the first time is always a challenge, lol).

Also, using synthetic ATF can help prolong the life of your tranny, as well as reduce tranny operating temps, coolant temps (since the trans cooler lines go through the radiator), and make shifting more consistent between hot & cold. I'll spare you the long winded story, but I would avoid Mobil-1 and Amsoil ATF (for different reasons), and I would highly recommend Red Line Synthetic ATF (the original formula, not D4, not D6). The Red Line stuff was formally approved by Mercedes in the early 90's, and will even be listed in the Mercedes "approved lubricants" brochure that may still be tucked away with your owner's manual. I believe it is listed in the manuals on my 93, 94, and 95 models. It is one of VERY few synthetic ATF's submitted to MB for formal approval. Note that most lubricant mfr's say they "recommend" their fluid for use in Mercedes, but that is not the same thing as MB approving it!!

My car is living proof that MB trannies can last a long time, if they are well cared for. My 1987 300D just clicked over 300kmi on the original tranny (never rebuilt). It has been re-sealed twice though, once back around 150k, and again at 250k (all external seals replaced to eliminate leaks). But it shifts perfect. I just fed it a fresh dose of the Red Line ATF last week. Click here to buy from Amazon, $102/case with free S&H...

pawoSD · #23 02-27-2009, 04:00 PM

I change the trans fluid on my cars every year.....so they usually go barely 10-15k between changes.

And its a full (7 qt) + filter change.

gsxr · #24 02-27-2009, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

And its a full (7 qt) + filter change.

Note that the fluid capacity will vary from model to model. My 1987 300D does take 7.0 quarts after draining the pan & converter, and replacing the filter. However my 1993 300D only takes 6.0 quarts (722.4 tranny) while my E420 and E500 both take 8.0 quarts. Check your owner's manual before filling... when in doubt, it's always better to under-fill than over-fill. Drive the car a day or two before adding additional fluid, it's difficult to get an accurate reading after pouring fluid down the dipstick tube. And remember to always check it hot (!) for the levels to read properly, and that it only takes a pint (half quart or less) to bring the level from "min" to "max"...

amg280 · #25 02-27-2009, 04:24 PM

On my 92 400E, I had reverse go out (stopped working all together) at about 130K. I thought it was the clutches but it wasnt. I took the tranny out myself and disassembled it in my basement. I bought clutches and a reseal kit. When I took the front pump off, one the seals was missing a chunk out of it. That was my problem. I put the new clutch paks in anyways. When I put it back together, it ran like new. It now has 204K on it and run/shifts fine.

My 95 E320 has had nothing but regular fluid and filter maintenance on its tranny from new (have records from dealer) and runs like a top at 205K, all original. It really all depends on how the car was driven for most of its life, i.e. highway vs city. This car was all highway driven. It really makes a huge difference.

ps2cho · #26 02-27-2009, 07:33 PM

I have a leak from the main front seal....I believe I currently have Mobil 1...If I switch over to synthetic ATF will it leak more from my bad seal?

gsxr · #27 02-28-2009, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

I have a leak from the main front seal....I believe I currently have Mobil 1...If I switch over to synthetic ATF will it leak more from my bad seal?

Maybe, maybe not. Synthetic lube can sometimes cause seals to swell and reduce leaks, but depending on the type of seal that is leaking, it could remain the same, or get a little worse. You should try to verify where the leak is coming from... if it's the front main pump seal, yeah, that's a pain since the engine or tranny has to come out to fix it. But if it's just the dipstick O-ring or other external seal, you can fix it with everything in place.

ps2cho · #28 02-28-2009, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

Maybe, maybe not. Synthetic lube can sometimes cause seals to swell and reduce leaks, but depending on the type of seal that is leaking, it could remain the same, or get a little worse. You should try to verify where the leak is coming from... if it's the front main pump seal, yeah, that's a pain since the engine or tranny has to come out to fix it. But if it's just the dipstick O-ring or other external seal, you can fix it with everything in place.

Its the main front pump seal

In a few months I am thinking of pulling the transmission to do the seal....think I should rebuild it since its out or leave it be?
How long would you say it takes to pull it? At the junkyard I was looking at a few and it looked a half day job...Seem about right? Anybody here pulled one?

gsxr · #29 03-01-2009, 11:00 AM

I've never pulled the tranny alone (just the engine + tranny at the same time), but I would estimate at least a half day, maybe more if it's your first time. It's just a slow, tedious process, especially if you don't have access to a lift.

If the tranny isn't slipping or otherwise acting up, there's not any reason to rebuild it (besides, that is expensive - ~$2k or so). A simple re-seal should suffice. If you dig through the EPC and buy just the seals you need it would probably be under $50 in parts (plus fresh ATF & filter). If you buy the complete gasket kit, that's easier, and will have everything you need in one handy part number (but will cost about $100 and you'll have some leftover seals for internal parts you won't touch). Whatever you do, don't pull the tranny and only replace the front pump seal!

hey_allen · #30 03-01-2009, 12:14 PM

I replaced the input shaft seal on mine while I had the engine and transmission out (on the SEC) and had no more leaking afterward.

I think that seal was $8?

My diesel's transmission is begging for a rebuild, but I'm definitely going to double check my adjustment before I cough up that sort of money on it. I don't spent $1500-$2000 easily, especially when the car so far has maybe cost me $2000!

The only hard part I found on the seal replacement was actually getting the seal out of the transmission.
With the stator shaft in the way, and the pump splines just below the seal, you have to be careful on how you extract it.
I could probably have removed it easier if I'd been willing to tear down the pump face of the transmission as well, and pressed the seal out from the rear, but I didn't have that gasket, and it wasn't leaking, so I made do.

Best of luck, whichever route you go!