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  #1  
Old 09-07-2001, 09:24 AM
slai1112
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Smile SRS light.

Recently the SRS light just comes on when I turn the key on in ignition, but it goes off around 1 minutes. Everytime is just like that, so what is wrong with that??

Regards,
Stephen
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  #2  
Old 09-07-2001, 01:29 PM
Jack
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Sugarland, TX
Posts: 285
One of your seat belt need to be replaced.

jack
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  #3  
Old 09-07-2001, 05:53 PM
slai1112
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how do you know it's a seat belt problem? and if it's a seat belt problem, how can I know which seat belt need to be replaced?
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  #4  
Old 09-08-2001, 07:22 AM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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It's one of the front two seatbelt buckles. Check them closely, see if they are damaged in any way. Also, it could be damaged from a liquid getting in there.
If you really want to know, you'll have to take it to the dealer to have them plug your car into their scanner (not OBD, a different plug) to see exactly which one it is.

The SRS light would come on in my car for about 90 seconds every time I started the car, and then go out. About the same time, I noticed my driver's side belt buckle was somewhat separated. I replaced the belt buckle myself (part cost about $75 for me), but still had to take it into to the Mercedes dealer to have the code reset!
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2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #5  
Old 09-09-2001, 05:26 PM
Boneea
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SRS light

I had this problem at about 155,000 miles-in addition, the SRS light would sometimes blink on and off at random (THAT was fun) Turns out it was a couple of bad sensors-cost about $450 to fix ...(one was the sensor that inflated the bag-so I wasn't willing to just live with it...)
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  #6  
Old 09-09-2001, 08:49 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: New Bedford, MA USA
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Your alternator output/charging system voltage, if low will kick on the SRS light, disarming the system until adequate output is available. Have the electrical system checked first. Easy to do and doesn't cost but a nickle..
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1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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  #7  
Old 09-10-2001, 12:16 AM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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No, no, no.

If the SRS light comes on for a set amt of time (apprx 90 seconds) every time you start the car, then it is one of the two front seat belts. If it goes on at random or is not consistent with TIME ON (of the light) at each start, then I'd checking the charging system. Other wise, it's one of the front seat belt buckles (female connector).
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2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #8  
Old 09-10-2001, 01:00 PM
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Location: New Bedford, MA USA
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Yes Yes Yes

Do check the system voltage. It's easy and quick. If you have a faulty voltage regulator which can display any number of symptoms, it will disable the SRS. Eliminate the easy stuff first, then dig into seat belt connectors and the like with a multimeter. Your basic troubleshooting conundrum.
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Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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  #9  
Old 09-10-2001, 01:24 PM
mattsuzie
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You need to take it to a dealer where they can hook an instrument to access what output code your car is giving. Depending on the code will determine whether or not it is a seat belt, steering wheel, or the air bag sensors. If no code, then maybe it is the charging system. Would not the charging light illuminate if it was the charging system however?

Somebody said that they had their airbag sensor replaced for $450. Pretty good since they cost normally around $1100 I believe down here.
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  #10  
Old 09-10-2001, 03:35 PM
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Lightbulb

Read this post:

SRS Light Stays On For 1 minute after starting car...

Make a judgment for yourself, and have the dealer check the codes to find out for sure if you're in doubt!
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2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #11  
Old 09-10-2001, 07:31 PM
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Location: New Bedford, MA USA
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KISS

Hey guys, just trying to help Stephen eliminate the simple stuff before dipping into the more exotic(expensive) service venues.
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Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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  #12  
Old 02-21-2002, 12:46 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: North Wildwood, New Jersey
Posts: 84
SRS Light

I just got back from my Mercedes Benz dealer. My SRS light won't go out. The dealer performed the short test and checked for codes. Apparently I have a bad SRS sensor. It looks like the cost will run about $1200.00. OUCH!!!!!

Bob
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  #13  
Old 02-21-2002, 02:12 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 571
To add to what Jeff has already suggested......

Sometimes if you have an SRS light that stays on AFTER the car is started, you may have worn brushes in the voltage regulator. In many cases, the ABS and the SRS light will remain on.

To get an idea of how the charging system is working, do the following:

- Obtain a VOM(voltage-ohm-meter)
- Set it to the 20 scale
- Start car
- Connect red lead to battery + post
- Connect black lead to battery - post
- Observe reading. Some say 13.5 volts is good
- If you're seeing anything much lower, brushes may be worn.
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  #14  
Old 02-21-2002, 03:24 PM
Jim's500E's Avatar
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Location: Manchester, Connecticut
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Question

Did they do the diagnostic testing with the car running or just check the fault codes while it was off?
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  #15  
Old 02-21-2002, 04:49 PM
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Location: North Wildwood, New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jim's500E
Did they do the diagnostic testing with the car running or just check the fault codes while it was off?
Jim,

That's a great question and unfortunately one that I did not ask. I intuit from your question that the results might differ depending on how the test was conducted. I would have assumed the test was performed with the engine running, but I know what happens when you assume. The code listed on my receipt was code 2.

Bob
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