Mobile Devac 1 5W40 in gasoline MB
 

Winter is approaching in cold Michigan.

I am thinking about using a oil that gas 40 weight (hot) but either 0 or 5 weight when cold. That leaves me with a few choices:

1. Mobile 1 0W40. It is available in the US now but it is almost impossible to find at a reasonable price.

2. Vavoline 5W40. Again not easy to find.

3. BMW 5W40. Heard conflicting info from the BMW list. Some dealers sell for $3.50/qt but others for over $5. It is said to be the same as the Vavoline 5W40.

4. The diesel rated Mobile Delvac 1 5W40. It is not difficult to find.

My question is: Is it OK to use Delvac 1 5W40 in a gasoline MB? Is it better than using Mobile 1 5W30?

Thanks.

Bo

If you are planning to change your oil in early spring (which is probably a good idea), then a synthetic 5-30 will probably work best. You should be able to find Mobil at this weight! Roger

Why won't you consider the Mobil 1 10W30? I run 10W30 during the coldest months of the year (in my gas cars) but run 15W50 the rest of the time.

Michael:

The only reason is that MB only approves Mobile 1 0W40 and 15W50. I am sure 10W30, 5w30, or even 0w30 would work.

Just got a words from a local BMW dealer. They are replacing all 5W40 with 5W30 now.

If I cannot find 0W40 or 5W40, I will use 5W30.

Bo

loubapache,

I am in a similar situation as you. I prefer to use the short list of approved synthetic oils approved by MB.

My first choice would be Mobil 1 0W40 but I have not seen it at the retail stores. My next choice would be Castrol Syntek 5W50 which I can find at the retail stores.

As winter is approaching I will keep a look out for Mobil 1 0W40.

I would have considered Valvoline Synpower 5W40 but recall reading a thread that they were blacklisted by BMW.

rjnonnie:

Castrol Syntec also comes with 10W40. I saw it in my local Wal-mart today and it is abour $18 per 5 qt container.

Speaking of the BMW-Vavoline situation. I made an inquiry to a local BMW dealer asking about the 5W40 oil they use. The reply I got is that now they have a new BMW High Performance Synthetic oil 5W30. It is $3.60 per qt. I am going to take a look at that one to see if it meets the specs MB mentions. I am sure it does.

Bo

loubapache,

I am aware of the Vastrol Syntek 10W40, however I prefer the 5W for the Chicago winters.

Last year I used Valvoline 10W40 (non-synthetic) during the winter months and discovered that the oil produced a white jell under the oil cap on short trips and the 10W40 sounded like it was a bit too thick when the temperatures got down to the single digits.

Thanks for the input regarding the pricing for synthetic oil that you found. I discovered that Target sells Mobil 1 for $3.00/qt. but I have yet to see Mobil 1 0W40.

Ray:

<<
Target sells Mobil 1 for $3.00/qt
>>
I checked my local TArgets and the price is $4.24.

Which on one Chicago? I do come to the Westmont/Oak Brook area often.

Bo

The store in Bloomingdale IL located on Army Trail Rd. near the intersection of Schmalle. It has been about 6 months since I have been in there so I can't vouch that the price is the same.

To answer your original question, there is nothing wrong with running Universal grade (That's what Mobil Delvac One is) in a gasoline car. These blends have more additives for keeping the inside of your engine clean. I use universal grade Chevron Delo 400 Multigrade in everything I own from tractors to pickups to diesel MB's to gasoline MB's and even my riding lawn mower. All the engines stay clean and have lasted many, many miles(except the lawn mower, it doesn't go many miles).

Good luck,

LarryBible:

Thanks. The Delvac 1 is actually Mobile's synthetic oil with 5W40. I guess they also have a universal Delvac at 15W40.

I just want to make sure. Mobile does say the Delvac 1 can be used in gas engines as it also carries the API SJ symbol along with the diesel specs.

Bo

Universal grade does not have to do with weight it is the additive blend that makes it Delvac One rather than regular one. The weights can vary in universal grade just as in the others.

Have a great day and may God bless America,

C'mon guys, can anyone really tell a difference between a 5W30 and a 10W30 synthetic during startup?

I have used a wide variety of syn and non-syn oils - Mobil and Castrol, and, while I fancy myself as very attentive and intelligent about what is going on in my engines, I can't recall hearing or feeling any difference.

I can tell you the difference between syn and non-syn on startup at -30F ... syn starts and non-syn doesn't ... try pouring 5 or 10W30 non-syn out of a can at -30F and then do the same with syn .... make sure you cold soak'em overnight outside. BIG DIFFERENCE! Mainly cause one is a lubricant still and the other is peanut butter.

Commercial over.

George Out.

An Alternative...
 

Would be, Lubro Moly Vollsynthese Energy - 0W-40 HD, Part # LM 2050 @ $32.00 per gallon.

You can call Phil at PartsShop to see if he can get it from his distributor, or go to this website:

www.etyparts.com/lubro%20moly%20brochures.htm

http://www.etyparts.com/ETY%20images/lubro%206.jpg

Yes, the Lubro Moly is a good oil but at twice the price of other synthetic oils.

I have pretty much decided to use the BMW High Performance Synthetic oil. It exceeds both the latest SAE and European specs and costs $3.60/qt at the local BMW dealer. The dealer is using this oil in all new BMWs and the first and subsequent oil change is at around 15,000 miles (I will change at about 7,500 miles). This oil was 5W40 but now BMW replaced it with 5W30. They use this for all climate and geo-locations now.

Bo

I think the additives in oils for diesels is probably better for the engine. As Larry alluded to they have a different additive package. Generally they have more additives and keep the engine cleaner. I did read a Car and Driver editorial that did mention that there is a chance these extra additives may harm the catalytic converter. I run Rotella in my gas motorhome (no converter) because it works especially hard. Otherwise I run Mobil 1 synthetics 15-50 summer and 10-30 winter.

The gas cars and mileages that I currently have or have had that have run Chevron Delo 400 multigrade with no catalytic converter or any other kind of problems are as follows:

'78 Ford 4X4 bought new in '77, 82K miles about 1/2 mile at a time started using Delo about 12 years ago. No catalytic converter, but no other problems.
'88 Vette bought at 70K miles, now 123K miles
'88 300E bought at 80K miles, now 199K miles
'98 4Runner bought new, 99K miles
'94 Windstar bought new 112K miles, blew head gasket at 100K, but nothing related to cat or such


Those are the gas cars that have had no oil except Delo while I owned them. In addition to this, I have about a million miles of experience with Delo in diesel cars, trucks and tractors. The top four in the above list I still own and are all in top running order.

I think that the Car and Driver comment may have come from an isolated instance where a universal grade oil was used in an engine that was burning A LOT OF OIL. If the engine is not passing oil to the combustion chamber, how could the type of oil being used have anything at all to do with anything going on in the exhaust tract?

BTW, My new C Class and my daughters new Ranger pickup are on a Mobil One diet.

My $0.02,

loubapache,

Update on Mobil 1 price at Target:

I went to my local Target yesterday and saw that the price of Mobil 1 is over $4/Qt. Thought I let you know so that you don't make a special trip.

Thanks, rjnonnie.

Bo

I was at Wal Mart this morning and had five quarts in my hands priced at $4.47 each. I stumbled across a display with 5 Quarts in one jug for $17.97. I got a few of the 5 quart jugs. It takes exactly 5 quarts for my daughters pick up. Very convenient.

BTW. Remember that Mobil One and Mobil DELVAC One are two different products. The Mobil DELVAC One would be much more desirable for diesel engine use.

Have a great day,

My test of Delvac 1 in a gas engine vehicle was abruptly terminated yesterday after 8000 miles. A Mercury Grand Marquis slammed into the back of our Toyota 4 Runner. Pushed us over the curb into a tree 65 feet from the point of impact, and rolled us over (full 360 degree slow barrel roll). Observations as follows:

1. Engine seemed to like the Delvac 1. Zero oil consumption in 8000 miles except for topping off after filter change at 5000. Oil was getting a bit darker than the Mobil 1 used to, which, to me, indicates it was doing it's job.

2. Buckle your seat belts. All 4 doors opened when the truck rolled. We would have been seriously injured if not belted in. As it is, we are still picking glass out of our elbows, but no other real injuries. You may be the best driver on the road, but the other guy damn sure isn't. Buckle up, please.

3. Headrests are a good thing.

4. HANG UP AND DRIVE! If you are jabbering on a cell phone, you aren't watching where you are going. Pull over if you want to talk on the damn phone.

5. A cell phone, when propelled by an airbag, can pretty well take an ear off. All the blood sure messes up the upholstry.

6. If you are driving an SUV, you might want to reconsider if you really need one or not. If this had been a normal sedan or wagon, it would not have rolled.

Paul- hope no injuries have resulted in your unfortuant happening.

good luck and best wishes
-fad

Thanks -fad. We are OK, except for still picking glass out of our elbows where they went into the windows. Due to slow city bureaucracy we still don't even know who hit us. Police report will not be available until Thursday.

Glad you're okay!
 

First and foremost, I'm glad you're okay!:) It SUCKS to get hit from behind-hope you at least saw it coming. Now, you were rear-ended and the airbag(s) blew? Tough break...as I understand it, Benzes (with bags of course) only deploy the bags upon frontal impact, and then only when the impact's within a certain variance from direct-on. But then again, with MBZs the SRS system usually includes seatbelt pretensioners too, so you're forced firmly into place in a hit from the rear so bags are obviated.

And the doors opened? Definite design fault-doors shouldn't open unless you ask them/demand them to. Shame on you Toyota:(

Cell phone implications? I presume you'll be a hands-free proponent henceforth, eh;)

Your accident is certainly an advertisement for more sophisticated safety systems and proper engineering. I've owned several Toyotas, and a nasty rear-end collision is a big part of why I changed marques (sucker folded like a wet paper cup). Being a guy with a wife and 3 kiddies, most in my circumstance choose either an SUV or a minivan. I chose, for the same money, a used 300TE. It took a hit to the rear quarter once, and I was amazed at how little damage there was.

And I hope I NEVER take advantage of its passive safety features.

So, what will you replace that truck with?

Nope, didn't see it coming.

Our vehicle did not have an airbag. It was the car that hit us which popped the airbag.

I stand at least partly corrected as far as the doors opening. Linda remembers opening hers. I don't remember opening mine. It is possible that a rescuer opened my door. The 2 back doors, however, were locked, so they would not have been opened from the outside. I believe they opened during the rollover. The damage seems to confirm that.

I will no longer use a cell phone while driving. Not even hands free type. You shouldn't either. You really can't afford to.

Not sure what to replace it with. Don't know what the insurance company will do, but I bet they won't pay what it was worth. Replacement cost has nearly doubled in the last 10 years. Might look at E320 wagons. Might go with a full size pickup. Will have to do some studying and looking in the next few weeks.