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#1
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losing power
My c230 kompressor 1999, first it wouldn't start, the engine wouldn't turn over, towed it to a mobile station, crank sensor was replaced ($400), and mechanic wanted to change the gas pump and filter to make it run ($700), i decided to tow the car back to my house. kept in the garage for a week, and then started car, the car started, however, this morning while driving to work, the car lost power and topped, i managed to get it started again, but got scared. what do you think is the problem? help
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#2
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Possible fuel filter.............
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A Dalton |
#3
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I would probably start with the fuel filter for a couple reasons:
First, it's the cheapest of all the options and a likely culprit. Secondly, if it's the original in there, 10 years is enough to replace it as a maintenance item. If it doesn't fix the problem, at least this is one part you can justify 'throwing' at the problem, as it is maintenance related as well.
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-tp 1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS 1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station 1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition |
#4
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losing power
how hard is it to change the fuel filter?
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#5
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Mr. Dalton,
I am a friend of "girlpower" and will be the diy mechanic for this. I was reading your post in another thread ('95 E320 Won't Start) earlier today regarding a similar problem, and was thinking it may be the OVP as you suggested there. She really needs this fixed asap (she needs the car to commute to word an hour each way), so I was planning to pick up the "best guess" part tomorrow and put it in for her. Here are a few other details on the problem: -The car cranks with full power (newish battery), but will occasionally not start (seems no spark and/or fuel at all, but I haven't been there when this has happened). -It shows P0341 (cam PS) and P0202 (injector 2) codes, and I am replacing the cam PS tonight after this reply. However, I tend to doubt that a cam PS would cause a no-start symptom. -When it does start, it appears to run fine with no problems whatsoever (except once where it started a "low power" symptom (probably the CPS acting up at that point I suspect). So with this new information, what do you think may be the best guess as the problem? Many thanks, Greg |
#6
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"However, I tend to doubt that a cam PS would cause a no-start symptom."
A faulty camshaft position sensor will cause a no start sympton. The fact that the car is throwing a code for that sensor is an excellent indication that the problem resides there. With a new fuel filter I think you will be good to go (keep us updated).
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1999 Porsche 996 Carrera Convertible 1994 420E - SOLD 1986 300E - SOLD, what a car 609 Certified |
#7
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> Terrible way to try and fix a car. I told you what a guess would be ..and that is the fuel fiter. That chassis does not even have an OVP, so you are going about this all wrong. You have codes .. the ECU has found a fault and diagnosis should take into consideration what the computer has detected as a base . Codes do not mean a part is bad , it means a fault has been detected in that part of the system..futher testing is required.
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A Dalton |
#8
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Quote:
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#9
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Update: Camshaft position sensor was replaced Wednesday night. No strong symptoms during driving Thursday (slight hesitation noticed though). P0341 and P0202 codes disappeared, but P0105 (MAP circuit) and P1519 (adjustable camshaft timing solenoid) appeared along with the check engine light (CEL was not on previously). Fuel filter will be replaced Saturday. Will update again afterward.
mpolli, I meant to say that the starter would crank the engine but engine would not start. Thanks for all input and help thus far. Much appreciated. |
#10
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Hi Guys,
The fuel filter was changed today and all the codes went away, as well as the check engine light. I hope nothing breaks again. Thank you for all your help. |
#11
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Help again, sorry guys!
As I posted earlier, the fuel filter was replaced and the codes were erased prior to this replacement. Unfortunately, the car stalled again coming from a red light and also misfired while cruising for 1-2 secs, there was P0105 code error, and the check engine light is on again. Please advise what to do next. |
#12
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#13
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Thank you everyone. The fuel filter was replaced. And there was this tube that was disconnected and has been connected (map sensor). So far so good. The car is running again
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#14
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I wonder if that hose got disconneted when they did the CPS. Interesting that the thread I found also was a disconnected hose cause.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#15
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Yes, mpolli, that thread’s answer to the P0105 code was a disconnected vacuum line from the MAP sensor, just like mine. However, I didn’t know where to look for the vacuum line or the MAP sensor, so I checked another forum for P0105 and found one with pics of the vacuum line and the sensor. That site is:
http://www.b e n z w o r l d.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1364929-oil-change-triggered-check-engine-light.html (I added spaces in the URL in case the server removes other forum URLs from this site. Just remove the spaces.) From those pictures I went right to the problem vacuum line and plugging in the dislodged vac line cured the stall/no-start problem as well as the remaining P0105 code. I’m not sure when it happened, but it could have been there from the beginning or popped out during the camshaft position sensor installation. The fix took a few days of troubleshooting, but it's much better than giving the mechanic $700, and likely more $, to throw parts AND LABOR at the problem. Thanks again all! |
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